Ok, quick history on my car. 91 LS, stock B18A1, stock tranny, only aftermarket parts on the motor is a no-name aluminum intake tube and cone filter (cleanable) that was on the car when I bought it in 2004, oil changes failed at catchin every 3K miles but they get done before 5K with Castrol Syntec 5w30 and K&N filters, 188k miles on motor/tran/body, minor oil burn at startup for about 1 minute till she starts warmin up, consumes about a quart of oil per month/1200-1300miles and I do my best to keep the oil topped off when I check it monthly.
She was wrecked when I bought her but I fixed the damaged front end and has gotten me faithfully from Wyoming to Canada, Montana, Colorado (ALOT), and several other states. About a month ago my MFR failed (finally) and while I was tryin to find one over the course of the following week I decided to try some Bardahl’s Stop Smoke/Stop Leak (that craps thick btw) for the oil burn/consumption she’s got. I followed the directions on it for a 4cyl engine and changed the oil as well. When i got her started up after freezing the old MFR, she had a “lope” like she was trying to imitate a big-block V8 and was running extremely rich. I figured the MFR might have something to do with it so I made no repairs till I got my new MFR but once that was replaced, she still ran like crap.
So over the course of the last 3 weeks pouring over the Helms Manual, the Hanes Manual, H-T.com, this lovely forum, and replacing the following parts/making adjustments as per others’ suggestions for any problems remotely similar on this forum, she still runs like utter shit. Here’s what I’ve done so far:
Ground connections - checked and cleaned
MFR - 3 weeks old and working
Fuel Filter - 2 weeks old
8mm Bosch (I hate Bosch stuff) Sparkplug wireset - 3 months old, resistance check today checks out
Denso spark plugs gapped to .042 - 3 months old, shows carbon building from running rich, clean em once a week because of it
Bosch 1 wire O2 Sensor - 1.5 weeks old, previous was caked in bleach white buildup, books say sign of silicone ‘poisoning’
Distributor Cap - 2 weeks old, contacts are clean
Oil change/flush w/ Castrol Syntec 5w30 and K&N filters - 4 days ago, changed the oil/filter>ran it for 10 minutes>>changed oil/filter again and left it, oil in the engine is pretty freakin clean
Original Cat - taken off 4 days ago and looked at by 2 general mechanics and the master tech at the local Honda Dealership and was told by all 3 it was fine
Original Ignition Coil - primary winding tested .8 ohms so it passed, secondary winding tested 15.7k ohms so it passed today
Original ICM - provides voltage when needed from the wires it should be, so it passed today
Timing, Ignition & Cam - done today but the ignition timing seems to fluctuate; my marks will match the flash of the timing light, I’ll tighten the distributor bolts, doublecheck with the light again, marks will be dead on but if I sit and watch it, it’ll randomly appear to advance or retard though the sound of the motor doesn’t change. :squint:
None of this has gotten rid of the lope and I’m not throwing any codes.
My problem started with the Bardahl’s and I’m out of money for further parts. She used to be my daily driver but now she sits in my parking lot a majority of the time cause I hate driving her like this. All these repairs/replacements/adjustments have made her run really goodaside from the lope (back up to 12 mpg instead of 8-9mpg, but its still horrid compared to her 29/33), which is robbing her of enough of her power that I actually have to downshift to make it up moderately steep hills which is a first for me in 5 years. When I run her above 5K rpm, she sounds like a wannabe stock car, like somethings clapping, at cruising speeds its almost like a misfire/lope. When I take my foot off the gas and let her roll in gear regardless of speed or gear, the engine fires fine and sounds normal. I’m stumped and out of ideas so ANY thoughts of what I could test next is appreciated ahead of time. :pupeyes: