Engine Cranking but wont fire, please help

I dont get it , I went out for a drive and shut the car off , went to start it back up and it would just crank and crank. I let it sit for a few mins then it fired. I stopped to the cash station filled my tank and when to start it. It cranks and cranks but doesn’t fire. My CEL is staying on, could this be a fuel pump relay? Any help to point me in the right direction would be great.

I replaced the sparkplugs last night and gapped them to .044mm

thanks in advance!

Do you hear the MFR prime? Check your battery connections and charge. Or clean your starter solenoid contacts. I’ve had all of these repaired/replaced with my no start issues.

I plan to dig in tomorrow. Its pouring out. I just got it towed in not to long ago. I don’t hear the MFR prime but then again I could be wrong. What am I listening or looking for ?

Well there are two signs of a fuel priming. When you go to power ( II ) the abs light along with a buzzing sound will come on for about 3-5 seconds and shut off. If you dont hear anything then check youre MFR which is right under the driver side kick panel. It is held by one 10mm bolt that holds a black relay (turn signal I believe) and the MFR behind it.

You can get that bolt without removing the metal bracing (to remove this you need to take the center console out since it covers 2 bolts which gives more access room) and use a 3/8 ratchet and extension. Installing with braces on will take time as theres no space for your hands when hand screwing the bolt at first along with holding both relays steady. This is the way I did it as I just installed my center console just 15 minutes before finding out my MFR was faulty and didnt want to remove it again.

When my MFR was faulty my car started then died right away. Replaced it with a spare MFR and now I havent had any problems since (1 month going).

If you dont have a spare MFR there is a thread that will help you “fix” your current MFR by re-soldeing the contacts since over time these do corrode and crack.

Also I’ve heard that you can wiggle, jiggle, whack the MFR while cranking and if it starts thats your culprit. However for me that didnt work.

awesome, I may have a spare. Where do i get one if I dont?

Well I would start with the local junkyard since they usually sell them cheap. That’s if you can find them in the car since its a common problem with Honda MFRs. Then I would check here since there is always someone parting out their DA or selling misc. parts. If neither of the two works then I would check your local auto parts store but im sure they are pricey.

Thanks I will start with that tomorrow and if thats not it I will check back.

Also I just saw that your spark gapping is .001 inch out of spec. I doubt that would affect starting but just pointing that out.

what is spec?

0.039-0.043 inch or 1-1.1 mm. I doubt it has any major effects though.

Thanks! I’ll check them tomorrow!

[QUOTE=TegFan;2174170]Well there are two signs of a fuel priming. When you go to power ( II ) the abs light along with a buzzing sound will come on for about 3-5 seconds and shut off. If you dont hear anything then check youre MFR which is right under the driver side kick panel. It is held by one 10mm bolt that holds a black relay (turn signal I believe) and the MFR behind it.

You can get that bolt without removing the metal bracing (to remove this you need to take the center console out since it covers 2 bolts which gives more access room) and use a 3/8 ratchet and extension. Installing with braces on will take time as theres no space for your hands when hand screwing the bolt at first along with holding both relays steady. This is the way I did it as I just installed my center console just 15 minutes before finding out my MFR was faulty and didnt want to remove it again.

When my MFR was faulty my car started then died right away. Replaced it with a spare MFR and now I havent had any problems since (1 month going).

If you dont have a spare MFR there is a thread that will help you “fix” your current MFR by re-soldeing the contacts since over time these do corrode and crack.

Also I’ve heard that you can wiggle, jiggle, whack the MFR while cranking and if it starts thats your culprit. However for me that didnt work.[/QUOTE]

I did notice the buzzing isnt coming on when putting the ign to II and I dont have abs so my battery light comes on instead of the abs and that light isnt even coming on, and usually the check engine light makes like a clicking sound then and flashes kinda. I think it could be the mfr. Am I correct?

I had the same problem a while back …make sure ur spark plugs are sparking…the MFR clicks when you turn key to power on (II). if ur hearing it click but dont hear fuel pump prime (buzz for 3-5 seconds from fuel tank…you can hear it a lot better with the back seat out) then its either faulty fuel pump or faulty wiring to the fuel pump…i ended up buying a new MFR from dealer, fuel filter and walbro 255 been goin strong for over a year

I am about 80% sure its the MFR itself.

Replaced the MFR but nothing still, any ideas? I am going to check for fuel at the rail and spark next. :frowning: this sucks!

I narrowed it to the fuel pump, I am getting great spark but no fuel at all, and I can’t hear the fuel pump and its not pumping any fuel. I just replaced this two years ago grrrrrrrrrr :frowning:

Try cleaning the ground on the thermostat housing.

Did you check to make sure there is 12v at the connector under the seat?

ground on the thermostat house, how should I clean it?

12V under the rear seat? Isnt that the sending unit?

Yes it is the sending unit but that connector also goes to the fuel pump. I don’t have a diagram in front of me but if I remember correctly it’s the large yellow wire that runs the fuel pump. If you have a test light or voltmeter check for power at that connector when you turn the key on. You should see power for a few seconds (fuel pump priming). If there is power, the pump is bad, no power and its a wiring problem. You could also check for ground if you like or try cleaning the thermostat ground as said above. Take the bolt out for the ground wire and clean the terminal and housing with sandpaper or something. Not likely the cause of the pump not running though.