Erratic idle after auto-5spd conversion

Okay, I just got my s1 tranny that replaced my auto slushbox in my car. I have a couple of questions. okay here they go:

  1. What would cause my idle to be so eratic, 500-2500rpm difference.

  2. Why does my car grind so bad going into reverse?

  3. Was 10w-30 okay to put in the tranny? Thats what my buddy told me, so I did it. It was lots cheaper than Honda MTF.

  4. My car starts with the auto tranny ECU, but it wont turn over with the manuel tranny ECU. What should I snip to loose the EGR code?

  5. My passenge axle snaped in (I can not pull it out), but it still looks like it has 1" left to be pushed in.

If you know the answer to any of these questions, please let me know asap. Thanks in advance. BTW here is everything I have done to it.

s1 tranny (JDM LSD)
Dynapack clutch kit (OE spec)
OE flywheel (resurfaced)
peddle assembly
shift linkage
Intermediate shaft
Shimmed tranny mount
ES mount inserts
OE shifter w/ knob
All the wiring to bypass the key lock and what not. Thanks again!

10w-30 is ok.
for the manual ecu to turn the engine over is because it needs the signal from the clutch sensor knowing it is enganged. when you run the manual ecu you probably wont get an egr code.

I think I’m just gona snip the EGR pin. Thanks Please help me guys.

Please help me guys!

how much did you spend on the swap? i want to do it, but i dunno if its worth it now …

I traded a lot of junk for my swap, but like $250 total cash. But if you don’t get lucky like me, then everything I have would probably run like $900.

grinds prolly because its a messed up tranny im not sure but the “sincrons” ? is that what they call it? are prolly messed up

AT to MT swap with an AT ECU will run like shit, especially when it comes to idle performance.

Did you jump the right wires to bypass the selector switch lockout?

Snipping the wires to the EGR won’t do anything.

As for grinding going into reverse, do you know what condition the tranny was in before you installed it?

Okay, I am going to answer these backwards.

-The tranny came off of a JDM B16A. The guy had it on his LS-vtec for 11k. So that means it can’t have more than 55k.

-I just left the gear selector in park and disconnected it there. The light stays in “P”. I figured that would work because I can get my key in and out, and it starts fine. I think I know what wires I should connect, but I am not sure. I will post what I have tonight. Also, how to I get the car to start with the 5spd ECU. I think it is the clutch switch, but what do I connect the clutch switch to?

You realize that the low mileage JDM engine thing is a myth right? Besides that, mileage is not and indication of wear.

-Also, how to I get the car to start with the 5spd ECU. I think it is the clutch switch, but what do I connect the clutch switch to?

Clutch switch is the same as the AT park position lockout. You have to jump the two thick black/white wires.

So do a 3-way connection to the clutch switch, to the black/white wires?

I removed my clutch switch all together. This switch on a 5-speed works the same way as the position switch on an automatic car. It will only allow the car to start in P or N on and AT or with the clutch depressed. Both switches do this by jumping the thick black/white wires on the big 12P connector in you center console.

So don’t even bother with the switch is what you are saying? So if I go back and accually do the wiring, then you think it will start?

Can’t answer most of the questions, but a lot of older Honda trannies don’t have a synchro for reverse. My 96 Civic had one, although weak.

If you just put in the clutch and immediately try to go into reverse on a lot of older Hondas, you’ll grind. Try holding the clutch down for about 5 seconds before going into reverse. The best thing to do to totally avoid grinds is put in the clutch, shift into 1st, then shift into reverse (without letting out the clutch). No more grinds.

10W30 is what the owners manual calls for on my 91 Teg owners manual for the tranny. It’s okay in newer ones for short periods, but it’s a little harder on the synchros.

Also, has anyone actually reverse engineered the ECUs? I’ve been told by several people that the AT and MT 90-91 ECUs are identical except the ECU contains a relay for the torque converter lockup solenoid. Same w/92-93. The fuel maps should be similar or identical I would think, except the AT ECUs are looking for that EGR valve.

HMMMMMMM? I don’t know. Archon, what about you?

What are you asking? Phrase your question in a clear manner so that I can try and answer it.

Also, has anyone actually reverse engineered the ECUs? I’ve been told by several people that the AT and MT 90-91 ECUs are identical except the ECU contains a relay for the torque converter lockup solenoid. Same w/92-93. The fuel maps should be similar or identical I would think, except the AT ECUs are looking for that EGR valve.

I can sell my 5spd ECU to make funds a little less tight. If I need the 5spd ECU, then I will keep it. I am drawn between the two.

Bump

Bump

straight 30 is better… you don’t need 10 weight thinness