well to sum it up, it failed. Almost took my life TWICE. The only reason why I gave it a 2nd chance because i was told it would be modified to be stronger. However, ETD has great customer service and John will be refunding my money. Now on to the description, if you care to read this. The pics speaks for themselves. The bar is basically based off of the 88-91 civics crossmember, which is similar NOT THE SAME as the gen2 integras. I had to send the radius arm back to ETD to have the holes bored out bigger because it was to small to bolt on to the lower control arm. If you value your life, do not get these bars for your gen2… Its fine for 88-91 civics, 94+ up integras 92-civics, but not for your gen2. reason being? When i asked John if they did R&D on these bars, he’s response was “sure we have, we developed these bars on customers cars but they dont race it” followed by “Something must be wrong with you car, because we never had this problem before” They own other hondas, not one of there crew members has a gen2… anyways enjoy. stick to full race or the Z-10 bars…
These bars broke on me 3 times!! 1st time it broke it was my fault, installer error… The pic above is the 2nd time it broke. It was installed by a professional. after 1 month of usuage and 1 trip to the track…
Not only did the bar snapped at the welds, the radius arm also snapped in half. I was on the highway, doing about 70mph with my girl in the car when this happened. I seriously dont know how I manage to gain control of my car.
This is the 3rd time it broke, radius arm snapped in half again. If you look by the welds, they welded on a triangle bracket at the end there way of making it stronger… This happened at the track, summerslam event at etown. made 2 passes, about to go on my 3rd pass. Did a 2nd gear burnout at the box then the radius arm snaps again.
This also happened with just 1 month of usage…
snapped in half radius arms
If my car is the reason being for breaking this bars like this, someone please tell me what is wrong with my car… I asked in this thread http://www.g2ic.com/forums/showthread.php?t=146823
If the gen2 integras crossmember under goes more stress than another other honda… Nobody responded, the answer is YES. $450 for a full race traction bar doesnt seem like so much $$ anymore if your value yours and other peoples life.
Do yours crack and pop alot? Mine do, I called full race and they said its normal and not to worry. I asked how is it normal if you’ve done all the calculations and have developed the perfect traction bar? He said, its a part they didnt make, its the spherical joints. I hate it with a fucking passion.
^^ whew, i was getting scared, i installed mine and started to hear that popping and actually felt the popping. i was actually thinking it was those damn joints. i can’t complain though, the front end feels so much more solid with the full-race traction bar.
Mine don’t pop that i notice. But at the same time my front end makes so much noise and vibrations when im turning i wouldn’t be able to tell if it was the bars or something else. (Running a drag spool and 26" MT DR’s on the street is not fun)
Just save up for the full-race bar and be done with it. I have been running the full-race bar for about 2 years now and not one bad thing has occured except the clearance. Even the clearance isnt really a issue unless you like to “ride dirty” like a stunna and tuck wheels. My front end has no slop what so ever, frees up a huge amount of space, looks clean along with the gold radius bars. Ive smashed the bar numerous times into curbs and other obstacles and it doesnt even phase it, just chips the paint a little. The bar is worth every penny.
Not sure what you guys are experiencing with the clicking sound coming from the bar, once you install the bar immediately have your front end aligned. Every once in a blue moon ill hear a knock from the main joints on the bar when cornering hard. There shouldnt be any slop in the bars after the caster has been set.
I also HIGHLY reccomend the FULL RACE traction bar. I kid you not it is the best 425 ive ever spent on my car. I didnt even align my car yet and i’m pulling 2.0 60fts! It really does put ETD and those other traction bars to shame. I’m so angry at myself right now that my whole summer was ruined because i wasted my time with that ETD shit… Also the FULL RACE TB is very, very strong…
definitely! i am very happy with mine(FULL RACE TRACTION BAR). i really dont think there is much of a clearence issue with the Full race TB. my 3" downpipe sits at the same level so im kind happy cause its the TB taking any hit (which is yet to happen).
I would definately have to say that this is the Generation 1. they posted the new changes on there listing:
new through weld
Old butt weld
Bar is no longer butt welded to the plate. The mounting plate is drilled and the bar goes through it and welded on the outside. This added a lot of extra strength and completely eliminated welds breaking
double bolted to the control arm
Our new mounting system consists of a bolt for the radius arm to the control arm plus a plate bolt and spacer into the second hold increasing the strength of the radius arm to the control arm. We don’t single mount them to the control arm as one bolt holding it on could break and cause you to lose control of your car.
The double bolting system as you see to the right here shares the load from the car across two bolts making it much much stronger and almost impossible to fail at this point even under heavy loads.
from the website:
Larger & Thicker main tube on the traction bar
Thicker Plates for mounting
Fully Tig Welded for added strength vs mig
Swaged Steel Radius Arms
New Stronger Aurora Bearing rod ends
Double Rod ends on radius arms
New mounting plate to control arm
New High Grade mounting bolts for rod arms
New High Grade chassis bolts. No need to use your old OE chassis bolts with washers.
This is up to you to use. If it were me, I wouldnt go for it for the simple fact that this part plays a vital role in our suspension and a failure like this on our cars can put you into a wall, off a cliff…etc. it looks to see that there throwing more metal together but not really doing the R&D. there LCA mount design looks like they stole it from Z10 and FR. I’m not trying to tell you that this won’t work, but in the end, you pay for what you get. BE SAFE!!!
