1st TEST, failed NOx over 1500 ppm for both runs. Was told to change cat and O2 sensor.
Went home, changed oil, spark plugs, new coolant, new Denso 1 wire O2 sensor (91 DA), filled tank and dumped in a bottle of ISO HEET and ran it during the week till half full.
Got a new Catco cat on the morning of the 2nd TEST. Filled the tank and dumped in another bottle of ISO HEET (think that’s where I fucked up).
Ran the car on the freeway for about 30 minutes and then went to the smog place and let the car idle for another 10 minutes.
Smog guy ran the TEST again and failed both runs with very similair results but this time… the smog guy told me I’m running hella lean (maybe cause of the ISO HEET) and also there was no reading for the O2 sensor.
Told me to check to see if the O2 sensor is working properly… so how do I do that? And also… what do you guys think I should do to pass on my 3rd TEST?
Need help asap cuz I’m testing again this Saturday…
The O2 sensor when operating should fluctuate around 0.5-0.8 volts as depicted below:
Guess you could turn the car on and tap in a voltmeter to the O2 sensor? http://www.hondata.com/techclosed.html
i was in the same boat as you, i couldn’t pass smog for shit, but from what i remember, i had my timing adjusted, changed o2 sensor, oil, and added some Lucas fuel injector cleaner, i think the injector cleaner did the job. its like $8.99 at autozone…
Yeah I added ISO HEET which was recommended on HT but I think I overdid it and came out running lean… maybe that’s why I failed and cause the O2 sensor not to read anything…
My tank is empty now… gonna fill up on the day of the 3rd test and see how it goes… hope I pass…
Retard timing. My old DB1 did the same thing, everything passed but NOX. Would be around 1500-2300 (i think 2300 was the highest) and obviously would fail. Retard the timing (jump OBD1 port, move Distributor all the way retarded) and go get it inspected. NOX would be in the <200 range. It was a dog though, don’t pull out in front of heavy traffic. It also did not like to Rev above 5k like that. It even had trouble completing the test it was so under powered.
I would not retard as far as your distributor allows, maybe move it all but a small amount, and try. I am sure I would get better performance and still pass that way. Unfortunately, where I keep my distributor is what the Helm Manual says is the correct timing, and it fails miserably.
They will check the timing unless they’re not doing their job properly. Timing and idle must both be within spec. So that means you need to be 16deg BTDC +/- 2 deg.
[QUOTE=hybrid90;2146366]Everyone says to retard timing but I do believe I saw the guy check my timing when he smogged my car…
I think Cali smog laws provide the tech to check your timing so you can’t “cheat”… who knows… maybe I’m wrong…[/QUOTE]
Reread my post. My timing stock failed. Retarding it to oblivion allowed me to pass emissions. In Texas, they don’t check to make sure timing is correct. Just a tailpipe sensor and the dyno drums at 2speeds. Along with saftey of course.
you get those readings yet?
sure, there’s many ways to “pass”, but you’re not solving the issue as to why it won’t pass. what is the timing set at now?
u want to basically run as much isoheet as possible without mixed gas which will lower your nox
i lowered a miata from iirc 2800 to 1800 just enought to pass
How is the tech “seeing that the o2 sensor is not reading”
,[/QUOTE]
Funny you said I ran too much HEET. Someone on HT said if you run too much… you will cause a lean condition and thus not making the car operate at normal temp so you will fail… who knows…
The tech said my O2 isn’t working/reading cuz it didn’t register any numbers on the printout… it was at 0. But I think you’re right, if it wasn’t working… I would have a CEL. Maybe the engine wasn’t warm enough for the O2 to sniff anything?
Welfare - haven’t gotten around to scanning it cuz the paperwork is in the Integra which I don’t drive much… I’ll try to post it up asap when I remember.
