does anyone here have a false floor that would be willing to e mail me how they did it? i want to put 2 12s in the spare tire area. im taking out the back seats and still want my system. thanx
it’s really easy.
Just get yourself either some wood or medium density fiberboard and use your trunk carpet as a guide to make a rough cut. I had to cut mine into two pieces in order for it to fit properly. Then just staple some carpet from an auto store on it and you’re good to go. pretty simple, really.
i used wood and it hasn’t warped or cracked in over two years.
how would i go about making it air tight?
that’s a completely different story - why would you need it air tight?
Because he’s making a subwoofer enclosure? Wish I could help you out, but I’m only using a normal box right now.
i have subs that sound way better sealed than they do ported. i prefer the sound of sealed anyways
Sealed is for crisp clean bass, but for db drags ported is better plus it travels sooo much farther. With a hatch as small as the DA a 10" is perfect, if not more then enough. What are you looking for, ear hair jaring, can be heard from 2 blocks away bass, or just a little thump with what ever music you are playing?
Underneath I still have the spare, and it is finished off with a cut-out around the spare with the same carpet, and the amp is exposed through a cut-out in the carpet. I will try to get a good pic. It is a 10" sub. It sounded pretty good, but I had to take it apart at one point and is currently not as tight so the sound is not as good. I use the well area and try to seal off as much as possible. My goal was to have a sub and keep the trunk. It is strong enough for me to stand on. I believe it is 5/8" MDF.
For a larger sub(s) you would need to have the floor higher since the subs would sit deeper, unless you plan on not using the spare.
im trying to get the same or close to the same sound that my sealed box gets. 93 teg- thats some clean work. would u mind sending me more detailed pics or a write up on how to do it?
These are probly the best pictures ive ever gotten of mine. used silicone sealent all the way around and used great stuff foaming sealer for the backside.
If i had to do it again. I would of built a sealed box to the bottom of it, to the exact requirements of the speaker being used.
But Fuckin A did it make the whole car rumble. when it hit you fell it in your ass and not you back. It was my own personal message chair
is that a ported one? and ima be building mine for 2 10’s how would i place them both in there?
it is ported, but the cubic foot ratio or whatever is huge. So i figgured that was the best way to go. In all honesty i do perfer a sealed setup, but it didnt sound right with what I had.
You could deffinatly get two 10’s in there but whatever you do just make sure the box is of the proper cubic inch count and it will be well worth your time.
Here you go. Im have more pictures, but this should give you some ideas.
how do i figure out how deep/ wide to make the box?
math.
find out the volume for a given box type from the manufacturer of your sub, then you gotta do a few calculations on the volume of the area you have to work with.
takes some grease on the ol’ gears upstairs, but it’ll make the difference between an okay-sounding thump vs. a really nice clean sound.
haha well i dont think i paid attention to that part of math. cuz i dont know how to figure it out
You would be surprised at how much room you can squeeze out of the subfloor. When I built mine, I had to have a minimum height in order to allow proper v/c ventilation. As far as volume, I decided on volume according to the t/s parameters, and then calculated the dimensions using a little bit of calculus, and double checked them with sand after completing the box.
[QUOTE=darin d;1846088]Here you go. Im have more pictures, but this should give you some ideas.
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if i was to lay down the fiber glass on the metal or paint in my case will it pull straight up or do i have to put down like vaseline first?