Few questions about turbo gs-r

ASSISTANCE Forced Induction
1

Hey i have a 93 gs-r b17. I want to boost and keep AC and PS. I have read that ppl just remove the condensor fan and leave them off with no problems, so i was thinking about doing that. My main concern is what kind of turbo i can fit in the car with stock rad. I was think something like a T3 but not sure how easy the fitment will be. Im open to suggestions. Should i get a junkyard t3 with internal wastgate or a garrett (eg) with external to save some room. My goal is to run about 6-8 psi on stock internals i would like to make 200hp at least. This is a daily driver.

Thanks

2

anybody have any input. Already searched a bunch but couldnt find what i was looking for. I’ worried about being i boost all the time with a smaller turbo drinking down gas, but at the same time i want a turbo that will actually fit with a full rad setup, and no condensor fan.

3

It isnt the turbo that will make it not work with a full rad (to an extent…as long as we are talking t3/t4 50-57 trims or smaller, not GT40’s and stuff). The manifold is going to be the big deciding factor whether or not you can keep AC/PS/full rad. I would talk to Phil with SPoolin Performance (a sponsor here), he is a GREAT guy and I bought a manifold/downpipe/dumptuube setup from him that was AC/PS/full rad compatible for my b18a. I sold that and got another manifold from him, a UGR. The UGR with the T3 .42/.48 I have would not fit a full rad, I had to buy a half rad that was dual core. Do you have a reason for wanting to stay full core? I have had 0 problems with my half core, whether it be sitting at a stop sign, cruising down the highway, or just regular street driving. The temperature holds steady at the same spot that my car did when it was bone stock. I am running one 12" slim fan on it too.

If you want to keep the full core though, I would definately talk to Phil and see what he can work out with you. He has very good prices, and excellent craftsmanship, which I am sure NUMEROUS others could vouch for as well.

From my experience, the small turbo can be kept out of boost quite easily. I have a b18a, that has a built bottom end and I get full boost by about 3000 if I am at full throttle, but can keep it in vacuum past 4000 if I am at just partial throttle.

I am happy with my small T3 .42/.48, which is a brand new garrett unit in my case, but can be found in the junkyard on a variety of volvos and saabs. My advice is if you go with a junkyard unit, have it rebuilt before installing it. It isnt all that expensive, and will save you from a lot of headaches down the road.

On a B17a, I would go for at least a .60/.63 T3 off of a Ford Thunderbird manual, the automatic is a .60/.48. If you have enough money though, a T3/T4 is definately going to be much better for you as you are revving to 8200 or so. The T3/T4 will build much more top end power compared to the T3. The T3 will be much more responsive and have great low end and midrange power. This is where my B18a spends most of its time (it is my DD), so I went with the T3 to have a fun street car. I am very happy with it, and it turns out that it gives my car plenty of top end as well.

I hope this helps you a little, just let me know if you have any other specific questions. I just went through this, so it is all fresh in my mind.

Jeff

4

I would go with the Garrett T3/T4. You could get her up to 300whp STOCK if you choose down the road once you fall in love with boost:)

5

Jeff thanks alot man! really helpful info! I’m gonna email the guy at spoolin performance and see what he can do. I wanted to just save a little money by not buying a half rad, and also not many full rad setups are out there, so just a preference i guess. Thank you guys alot for the help. If anyone else has suggestion or knows of anyone lese that makes custom manifolds let me know.

6

I would go to www.hondamarketplace.com and check out the vendors there too, there are quite a few fabricators. I like Phil with spoolin though, great service, he sponsors G2IC and HMP, and has very fair prices. I got my half rad from a company called CX Racing, and they are selling on ebay too now, they are under $100, come with B-series sized hose inlets, are full aluminum, tig welds, and I even had my dad look at it (works on hospital pipes and stuff that has to be welded perfect), and he said it looked like a well made piece. I would check them out if the cost is the issue, but I hear you on there being less full rad setups. I just figure going half rad is the way to do it because if you decide you want more power and need a bigger turbo or ramhorn manifold, a full rad wont fit anymore, so you might as well do the half rad in the first place. It also maked a lot more room, looks cleaner, and if you choose to, it makes the pipe routing a lot easier for the intercooler, especially with a back door intercooler.

I’m sure whichever way you go with will be great, boost is an awesome feeling!!! It is very cool when you piece together a kit and start to see everything going together and making your “little four cylinder” into a V8 whooping turbocharged beast, lol. Have fun, and keep us updated! Let me know if you need anything else!

Jeff

7

so i checked out spoolin performance website and they have this manifold http://www.spoolinperformance.com/quick4ac-p-60.html which is wicked!!! but expensive.

I wouldnt mind going to a half rad if i can save money by just getting the normal log mani http://www.spoolinperformance.com/log-manifold-p-58.html
just not sure if this one will work with PS as well as AC

tell me what u guys think i should do. I’m kinda thinking going half rad is the best idea. Is it the Del Sol rad that is the Dual core?

8

http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CXR&Product_Code=RAD-CIVC9200-L&Category_Code=RADI

that’s the one I have, but got mine for cheaper I think, probably on ebay like i said. Just the 92-00 civic ones will do, and if you can find a dual core, that is great! The seller I think I got it from, as well as my intercooler was CXRacing, which is a partner of another seller, Just-Intercoolers. Check them out, I have been very happy with the radiator and IC. The log will keep AC/PS/full rad, and I think the quick4 will keep AC/PS, but no full raiator. Ask Phil for all the details!

9

so if i were to get the spoolin log styly manifold , and spoolin dp AC compatible with half rad and…lets say gt30 gt32 turbo would i be okay with that setup?

10

I would think so, I havent had personal experience though. That will probably fit with a full size radiator. A GT30R is essentially the size of a 57 trim t3/t4, which seems to be the hot setup on hondas these days, so I would assume, but ask phil because he will know, or he can make the manifold with that turbo in mind at the time of fabrication. I think that if you are going with a GT30R, you might as well go with a ram horn manifold. It will NEED the half size radiator, but is much better if you decide you want more power down the road. If you go with a log manifold, just go with a 57 trim t3/t4. no sense in paying $1200+ for a turbo that is going to be restricted by the manifold. I would just get the garrett t3/t4 57 trim and call it a day, less than half the cost, and nearly the same turbo, minus ball bearings. If, however, you go with a ram horn, I think the GT30R will be worth it. The effects of BB will be more noticeable, and will probably benefit you in the long run. I plan to go with a ram horn/GT30R or 35R when I get another car, I am keeping my current log/T3 (maybe soon to be 50 trim t3/t4) for m daily driver. Just going to keep the numbers under 300 WHP, probably under 250 for it, and then the next car will be a track car with 400+ WHP, unless I go NA with it.

11

Thanks for your help jeff. I emailed phl and he gave me a quote of 1100$ for a custom manifold and DP for a tubular AC/PS/ full core setup. Thats just too much for me right now, so i figure that the log is a pretty nice manifold and if it works than thats what i will go for. Whats the average price that ppl buy a T3/T4 57 trim for? I’ve been looking on ebay but, can only find no name turbos or really expensive ones.

12

You can pick up a cast iron manifold off ebay faily cheap make sure it has the correct WG position

13

its a shame they dnt do a manifold that has internal gate… would be easier to plumb up… and tighter fit

14

GT3076R & Ramhorn Manifold = :up: but if your on a budget the t3/t4 57 trim with the log manifold will do you good!

15

haha thats exactly what I said, guess we’re thinking along the same tracks!
and a-man, all you have to do on the ebay manifolds is just get one of the wastegate block off plates, and if you are worried about leaks there, just put a wastegate gasket in between the manifold and the plate. If you get a custom one from SPoolin or another place, just tell them you want IW. It’s usually cheaper too.

16

If you get a custom one from SPoolin or another place, just tell them you want IW. It’s usually cheaper too.[/QUOTE]

What does IW mean :slight_smile:
thanks for the wicked help so far

17

IW= internal wastegate.

no problem at all! I love to help people out with the knowledge I have, especially since I am sitting at college without my car and this is like the closest to working on a G2 I can get until November. I cant wait for then, lots of new stuff! My dorm room is turning into a stock room of integra parts…everyone is like “why are you getting parts for your car, isnt it like hundreds of miles away?” haha.

18

Talk to Phil at Spoolin Performance. Hes a great guy to deal with and will help you out with what you need! FAST shipper too. EVERYONE these days are going with the Spoolin Performance Log manifold package! its a great deal.:rockon:

19

For 200whp, a Greddy kit would fit the bill.
You can retain your factory full size rad, a/c, p/s, cross member and ac condenser.
It bolts right up with out any trimming to the block’s webbing.
The 18G kits will make upwards of 250whp and and close to 200ftlb of TQ on a stock B16A.
Spool times are very low, around 3000rpms or so and pulls all the way to 8200rpms.

I also have a SFP Log style mani with an HKS external waste gate that would also retain your factory full size rad, a/c, p/s, cross member and ac condenser.

I think I posted some pics of both, in the “post pics of your turbo setup” thread.

20

guys, Sorry I’m late on this but, no one here had any issues of the stock radiator cracking after after awhile? I did my turbo set-up on an LS/VTEC (on stock internals) last year and people kept telling me before I did it, to get an aluminum radiator. I was too cheap on not wanting to replace my NEW stock unit.
When I got the turbo put on, sure enough, it wasn’t even 2 months later, my stock radiator cracked and I had to replace it. My friend gave me his old radiator, went another month boosting at only 4 psi @ 197hp, cracked that rad. Finally I gave in and purchased a full size aluminum rad (VERY TIGHT squeeze between the T3/T4 and rad) and slim fans, and have not had any problems.
I’m just curious if anyone is still boosting with stock rads (whether full size or half) and not cracking? Because this fella here that started this thread is about to run into the same issue I had.