looks good and YES it needs to be dropped BAD
Very nice and clean set up…I am very pleased with my set up…Having alot of fun…I am sure once you break in the motor correctly you will be having some major fun aswell…Were did you get all the Stainless Steel Braided Lines from? I need some pretty bad for Return Line And some other lil stuff…Be safe.
It was running great, untill I had a boost spike due to my boost controller :bang: . Now there is oil in my cylinders and I am fixing that right now. Lesson buy a nice boost controller.
I was running 9lbs of boost and put down 195hp and 185 ftlbs on a mustang dyno. So they told me around 230 on a dynojet, so decent starting point. I am going to fix it up this winter and probaly get hondata or some different fuel management, so I can do live tuning.
Here is the dyno sheet. I had them let of a little early since it was still getting broke in. Plus I was running very rich in the high rpms. Next spring I hope to get around 270-280.
I also have put in my suspension this summer, tokico blues and some eibach sportlines, a neuspeed front upper strut bar, a ben oagle rear lower strut bar, and a c pillar bar.
^sorry for you
how many miles have you done since, just to know more about SSmanifold strenght
I got about 1500 miles on it right now. The manifold is holding strong and I also have it heat wrapped. Not one single complaint for the ss mani.
Yah, I know plenty of people with the ss mani that love them,
There new ones are better but not best,
Do you have a flex pipe in the dp?
Didnt see it in your list,
I found some very very nice mani’s for $200 and $210 shipped for a short tubular mani,
Here is the link for the other,
https://www.stealthmodeperformance.com/manifold-shorttubular.shtml
Car looks awsome, (yah, needs a drop) but man I bow down to you 
Becuase you are with the dark side, Boost.
I can’t ait until spring when I hope to begin my boost setup
GoodLuck and its awsome setup thus far!
…Balance.
Now that you have that nice power you are thinking about handling by suspension upgrades, thats nice. I would reconsider on those wheels. step down to a smaller wheel because with all that added power you are going to need some extra “cushin fer da pushin”.
…um, yea. you need some more tire/air and less wheel is what i’m trying to say
so what happened during that boost spike that you now have oil in the cylinders?
Well having a little fun on the highway with my buddy and his wrx. My car went like hell for a second and I let off right away since I knew something wasn’t right. Pulled off the highway and a lot of white smoke coming out of the exhaust. Si i was like the headgasket went, no big deal. replaced the gasket and sprayed copper sealant on it with the same results.
It idles good but under any load it smokes. If I take a spark plug out I can see oil in all 4 cylinders. I have arp headstuds forged pistons, rods. honed cylinders and gapped new rings. Compression is fine. I was thinking something went wrong with the new head. Or maybe the head got warped under the boost spike. I am going to start there and get it tested. The cooling system still holds pressure as well. No burning of antifreeze and I didn’t see oil mixed in the coolant. Any ideas I am open on this.
I’ve been there before, having everything buttoned-up, and then the engine blows plumes of smoke out of the exhuast.
I would do a leak-down test if I were you, and varify that there is NO collant being burned.
If it comes down to it, get the cylinder head surface checked, as well as the block deck. If you blew a head gasket, then there is a very good chance that a headstud lifted. (Check the threads for the head studs ON THE BLOCK–as ARP studs, a well as the OEM ones are VERY strong, and the first thing that would go are the AL threads on the block.)
Also, to what ft/lbs of torque did you set the headstuds?
Are you running a wideband AFR gauge?
I would also check the cylinder walls, and see if there are any big noticeable scars, that would decrease the ring seal.
If you do have the head off, and if you’ve got a dial gauge/micrometer, check the roundness of the cylinder, as the cylinder could have distorted from detonation from the boost spike–no matter how beefed-up the sleeves could be.
(I’ve had a modded LS, and 2 LSvtec’s, the first with ITR pistons, and B16 head, apr’s, and the 2nd LSvtec w/ SRP pistons (.5 over) @ 11.5:1 CR, milled head, w/block gaurd, arp’s, cams, etc…, and then a booted DSM 4G63t, and then a B20vtec w/CTR cam, etc… —and from my experience, our B-series blocks are built with very soft AL blocks. I’ve seen cylinder walls distort, and threads get ripped out, block decks warp etc…)
IMO, the first thing I would suspect is the block.
I hope this helps.
Happy boosting, and good luck.
-Andrew
Strange, you seem to have lot of experience destroying B serie block, but people boosting 300whp claim then are very strong and can handle 400.
Maybe a little too much rev with LS crank is the problem? Im refering to R/S ratio…
Nice set-up, mines pretty similar imgoing turboedit shortly… I havebeen running a ssauto mani and wastegate w/o problems… when I punch it I constantly get a load of smoke… But it is running shitty rich and has the ignition retarted quite a bit… again nice Ol’ skool DA
nice setup. were you using a manual boost controller? i reccoment a eletronic boost controller so that you wont have to worry about any more boost spikes. ever find out where the oil in the cylinders was comming from? have you checked the landrings for the pistons?
nice manifold
I was using a manual boost controller. I am going to get an electric oone this winter. I stll have to tear down the motor and figure out were the oil is coming from.
I am thinking the problem is in the head, not the lower end. When I replaced the head gasket after the boost spike the cylinder walls looked emaculate. We will see what has happened. If it is the head, I will put the old one back on with maybe some different cams and go that way for now.
Thanks for the compliments and feedback. Keep it coming.
Hybridg2 and I put together my current B20vtec engine a few months ago. And then I drove the car with that engine ACROSS THE U.S. from California to Virginia in 7 days. (Now, if this doesn’t vouch for the reliability of B20’s then I don’t know what does.) And I had NO problems whatsoever. No oil burning, no coolant burning, or anything of that nature, and I was getting 32 mpg at best sometimes.
I’ve had those B-series engines alive for a good amount of time, but the main problems that I seem to have had with all of them was: open deck, and weak Al block metal.
In terms of your claim of people making 300whp on stock blocks–read up. Or go ask Xenocron. He’s making 300whp, but he even admits he’s running the B18a on the brink of engine component failure.
Or go read up on Mike Kojima, the author of “Honda/Acura Engine Performance,” as he writes,
“Although the area of block supporting the crankis nearly bulletproof, with either a full or partial girdle and beefy main bearing caps, the cylinder walls and deck are the Achilles heel of the mega power Honda…The problem is that when these engines are taken to the limit, at high rpm when naturally aspirated or boosted beyond 15psi, the unsupported cylinder walls crack from the side load and combustion pressure-induced stress. The narrow sealing surface of the open deck block can also blow gaskets at high boost levels.”
Isnt it comfirming what i’ve just said ? High reving and high combustion pressure bends the unsupported walls.
Generally stock stock blocks, it’s the ringlands that are the weakest link when it coesm to a good tune. They all seem to go around 300-350whp. Not so much the cylidner walls considering there is a shitlod of people with forged internals on stock sleevse maknig over 400+whp. Seen many at 500+whp even. The stock sleeves are not weak.
thats what i thought , sleeve fails when the pistons hit the walls if you pass the 6500 rpm redline
I’m not looking for an argument. (Which seems to be the most popular thing here at G2ic.-- so don’t get me wrong.)
This is what you said.
If you agree with my post regarding Mike Kojima, and you agree that 300whp and 400whp is alot of HP for a STOCK block, then how does my post support your point?
Also, according to Corky Bell, generally, the intertial loads of an engine are what causes more stress to mecanical components, not power loads (which result from peak pressures–such as boost.)
The problem with making high HP with a small displacement motor (i.e., B18a), is that you need more RPM’s to produce more exhuast cfm to spin the the turbine blades, thus making more boost.
Let’s remember that:
Power = P x L x A x N
P= brake mean effective pressure, (i.e., bmep)
L= stroke length
A= Area of bore
N= # of cylinders x rpm/2
Now, bear with me for a moment. If you play with the values for a small displacement motor, weather it be NA or FI, and plug in values for a small motor such as a B16, you’ll eventually find that higher HP values can more easily be achieved by increasing the N coefficient in the equation. Fine examples of this is the Spoon Civic Type R engine spinning at 12k rpms.
In terms of B18a1 cylinder wall integrity at varying rpm’s, please read up on inertial loads vs. power loads. (I.e. interial loads = to the square of rpm’s, As according to Corky Bell, “if the engine speed is increased threefold, the inertial load will be nine times as great.”)
IMO, there’s too many “magazine-mechanics” out there, taking whatever they hear from Joe Ricer, making X WHP. Read up on relaible sources such as Carrol Smith, Corky Bell, Bob Norwood etc., and DO THE MATH yourself, and not take random posts at Honda-Tech, about “what they’ve heard from a friend, of a friend” as unquestionable truth. This isn’t meant to bash you typRWhiteTeg93, but rather I’m more upset at the spread of misinformation in technical posts.