Thanks. Yeah, didn’t feel like pulling the whole motor just for this. I forgot to update this the other day…but I finally got the oil seal in =]!!!
I heated the seal with hair dryer, slowly twisted it on, got about 3/4 on and then reheated and lightly tapped the rest on and it slid on perfectly. I finally got it on successfully and can move on without having to worry about it.
Pic of the success lol
Ok so progress made today…some what.
Well actually last night I went ahead and painted my timing cover and crank pulley. The timing cover looked really faded and almost brown so now it’s nice and shiny. Not perfect, but it looks a lot better than it did. When I did the crank pulley I made sure to tape off the area where the belts go
Today I got some assembly lube (lubri-plate motor assembly grease). A friend of mine who I know very well recommended it. I lubed up the rockers and cams very well
Got the cam caps put on, put new oem cam seals in, put hondabond in the appropriate places, put my old skunk2 cam plug back in with hondabond on it as well just in case, and put the cam gears on
Tomorrow…if I actually have time, I will torque all that stuff down to spec and get the timing belt, timing cover, and crank pulley installed. It’s getting closer and closer to being a running car again =]
Ok so got all the cam cap bolts torqued down as well as the cam gear bolts. Went ahead and put the timing belt on, and my torque damper that attaches to the motor mount.
Ran into what I thought was a slight issue with the timing belt. I noticed the timing mark on the crank and on the timing cover didn’t line up and I couldn’t figure out why. Well I pulled the timing cover and belt back off, reset everything to where it lined up, put the timing cover and pulley back on and noticed it was still off like this…
I then pulled it back apart and saw that the tdc mark on the crank gear was lined up perfectly with the tdc mark on the oil pump. I then put the crank pulley on without the timing cover and saw that the tdc mark on it was too lined up perfectly. I then put the timing cover back on and then the pulley and it was off again like in the photo above ^. This told me that the timing mark on that timing cover is bullshit and couldn’t be trusted. I had the timing set right from the beginning.
After I tensioned the belt and everything lined up and checked out ok, I rotated the motor (counter clockwise) and heard a slight, strange, pop noise every time it rotated to a certain spot. I don’t know what it is, but it makes me nervous. Best way to describe the noise is if you pop your lips (if that makes sense). Here is a video I shot of the noise, ignore the ratcheting noise from the wrench and I suggest turning the volume way up to here it. The noise can be heard twice, once at 0:09 seconds, and once again (louder) at 20:00 seconds
Put the turbo manifold and turbo back on as well as the cold side piping (temporarily, not tightened down)
Next is to get the little things to mount the oil feed, figure out whether or not I need an oil restrictor, make the oil return, and get a 90 and 180 degree pipe to make the hot side piping. After that I can move on to welding the ic piping and getting the wrap for it so it doesn’t look like shit
What I have been able to do to my car thus far is get a hold of a 180 and 90 degree pipe to make and finish my hot side piping. Just need to cut them to fit now.
I found out the oil restrictor I got with my oil feed line doesn’t fit into my turbo lol =[ I will be ordering that 1/4 npt -3 one from brfittings asap
I also went to honda and bought a new exhaust manifold gasket. It’s only a single layer though, I thought honda used multi layer manifold gaskets. It’s straight from the honda dealer so I know it will work. (part#18115-p72-003)
I went to Lowes today and bought the hardware needed to mount the turbo to the manifold. I had some random bolts holding it on before so I got grade 8 bolts, lock washers, and nuts.
I also got bored and took my turbo apart to get some shots of it all nice and clean before it gets used
I’ll get or order my oil return stuff this week and hopefully get that done and taken care of soon, as well as the oil restrictor. I’ll post some photos of the hot side piping once it’s cut to fit and on the car.
So I finally finished ripping the last thing off my friends evo which was the rear diff. I also put stock suspension and evo x wheels on it so he can finally sell it as a rolling shell. Now that that’s all done I’ll have more time to work on my car =]
Here are a few shots of that evo (just for the hell of it)
^lol you can see the difference in the photos from my old and new phone. So nice to have finally upgraded after 4 years
Anyway back to my car…
Today I put the new oem manifold gasket on
Also got all the new matching hardware onto the turbo. The flange on the manifold is threaded, but even with that as tight as I could get it I didn’t feel it was safe without the nuts on there to back it up. I also put anti seize on the nuts and bolts cause I know taking them back apart after awhile is going to be a pain in the ass.
I ordered my oil return flange and that oil restrictor from b&r fittings. Hopefully that will be here early next week. I also started working on cutting the new intercooler pipes I got to make my hotside…unfortunately I have to cut them with a dremel (it’s all I’ve got) and my only cutting wheel shattered on the first cut lol Getting more tomorrow. It’s slow cutting like that, but its what I did for the rest of my piping.
Thanks. Been busy lately so haven’t been able to post very much. I’m still working on figuring out the oil return and oil feed. Thought I had them done, but wrong parts were sent to me and little things have been making it a challenge. I did get the valve cover re painted, and did the valve adjustment. Here is a shot of how it looks right now. I still need plugs, but put the wires on to keep anything out of the cylinders
I did some small stuff today. I got all the wiring harness secured behind the motor, got the alternator belt on, got the coolant overflow tank put in a new location since behind the front bumper wasn’t an option now with the intercooler there. Didn’t get a photo of that, but I will tomorrow. Oh I also laid the spark plug cover on just to see how I like the black and bronze…and I like it. Glad I went with those colors. I need to get rid of that yellow dip stick handle next. I have yet to hear back from b&r fittings about returning that oil return fitting that didn’t fit. I’m going to do whatever I have to get my money back from them. Horrible company, never ever order from them unless you know 100% that what you’re getting will it.
The oil feed line has been done like this many times before. It’s got a good inch gap between it and the belt, bolted in two spots, doesn’t move at all. Not worried about it. Thanks for the concern though, but it’ll be alright. If not, I’ll be the first to say I was warned lol. I’ll get the picture of it as soon as I can
Already ran into that issue. I had to cut the bumper bracket to clear the pipe, and I need to notch the bumper cross member. Everything cleared the intercooler without cutting so kinda sucks I have to cut it anyway to clear the pipe but whatever. None of the grille in the bumper has to be cut which is what I really wanted. The intercooler will be nice and hidden back there.
Here are the pics of the coolant overflow location. Not how I would prefer to have it, I’d like it outside of the engine bay like it used to be but it is what it is
And finally…the pictures of the oil feed behind the timing belt
I don’t see any way that line is ever gonna come in contact with the timing belt
Ok so today, finished up cutting out my little custom oil return flange.
lol I’m no fabricator, nor do I have the correct tools…but it’ll work
Look at the hight difference between your standard t3/t4 flange and my custom “low profile” flange. Oh I said forget the barbed fitting, not waiting on that. I slipped a hose over this with a clamp and it fits really snug, didn’t leak with water running through it and I couldn’t pull it off by hand so it’ll work.
Now just to get my buddy to weld it up for me and it’s good. I already test fitted it and even with it being super slim I still have to have the center section of the turbo rotated to 33 degrees. Garrett says anything from 0-35 degrees so I’m right at the edge there. It has to be like that though to have a downhill angle to the pan. Hate this miniram…never getting on again lol
Guess what…hell just froze over because I finally finished the damn oil return >=]!!!
Thanks to my ingenuity and my friends welding skills. Thing was way harder to make work than it should of been. Oh and the piece of steel didn’t warp at all during welding so it shouldn’t warp while it’s on the turbo. I think welding is hotter than a running turbo…I believe.
Once I put clamps on the hose I can set my car back on the ground for the first time since October =] Can’t wait. Next is getting the oil, coolant, plugs, and waiting on my oil return stuff to get here
Just a heads up, for the return I don’t think the clamp idea is going to work. You can try but oil will be everywhere at some point in time. I am assuming that is 10AN?.. you will need to build yourself a legit 10AN line. On another note, I hate to keep offering criticism, but the amount of cutting done to the bumper support will seriously jeopardize your safety…it’s a bit terrifying. Why not just reroute the piping?
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