I hate to criticize you cause I understand you’re trying help, but had you of read some of my previous posts you would understand why I didn’t make a real an line. I’ll explain it again. First, the turbo hangs so low an fittings were not an option. I was going to use barb fittings instead, the company I ordered them from sent me this an fittings instead cause they suck. I didn’t want to wait to send it back and have them send me another one when I could make this one work and be done with it. The hose is on there super tight, I will bet you $100 right now that it won’t leak due to that being the an fitting. Moving on to the bumper. I’ve seen, on this website included, people cut way more out than what I plan on doing. Not to mention the bumper support on the Japanese models are suuper thin and flimsy, way thinner and lighter than what mine will be when it’s cut. I knew when I made that piping it would have to be cut, the car has no airbags…the safety level is shit to begin with. I’m not going to remake, reroute, and reweld the pipes for a small, fractional, insignificant improvement in safety on a car that isn’t safe anyway. The hot side piping is routed like it is because I have to leave the washer bottle in that hole on the driver side for the intercooler sprayer. Not trying to be a dick to you, just wish you had read and understood the situation as to why I made my setup the way I did. it’s not like it is because I half assed it. It’s all done for a reason that has to be done.
Ya actually looks like you do have enought room for that oil feed line. clean. Maybe if i have enough room and enough balls i’ll try it out on my build.
lol go for it. As long as it doens’t leak it’ll work
Got my new oil feed fitting in today from AGP and it’s the correct one finally =] 1/8npt, -4 an with a .65 restrictor. I emailed AGP back and forth for days while they helped me get the right thing. They have some great customer service and I can now cross this off my list.
They even sell it as a kit now because of me lol. It’s sold with a regular 90 degree fitting, but I’m sure you can ask for the restrictor one instead.
Ok time to do a little catching up.
I’m gonna get some flack for what I’m about to post, but let me explain my reasoning first.
I went ahead and painted my turbine housing, center section and wastegate with VHT flameproof primer, and flat black. I KNOW…I know, it wont last forever, or even very long. I did it so that when I finally start my car up the turbo wont rust before I get the chance to go get it ceramic coated. I will get it ceramic coated in the future when I can afford it, but for now this will keep it from getting all rusty.
I first hit the turbine housing with a brass wire wheel and got all the surface rust off. Then taped it all up and sprayed it with vht flameproof primer
Forgot to get a shot of it primed…oops
After I let that dry for a couple hours I sprayed the flat black
After that dried for about 3 hours I started doing the curring process in the oven. Following the directions on the can. Heat to 250 for 30 minutes, let cool for 30 minutes, heat for 400 for 30 minutes, let cool for 30 minutes, heat to 650 for 30 minutes, let cool. My oven doesn’t go to 650 so I went as far past 550 as I could.
During all of that I painted the compressor housing the same bronze as my valve cover and fuel rail
After all that…I think it came out pretty damn well. These pictures don’t do it justice. Looks so much better in person, it really does
Got the wastegate bolted on
Got the oil feed on =]
Turbo is bolted to the manifold, wastegate is bolted on, oil feed is on, oil return is on. This whole thing can simply be bolted right onto the car tomorrow =]
Here is a video of me “walking” around the turbo. Looks better in this than it does in the photos
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VSB8Il6padM&app=desktop
I went out and got Rotella T6, and BKR7 V Power plugs the other day. Haven’t put them in yet though. Question on the plugs. Should I go with stock gap, or something else since it’s boosted and e85? I always left stock gap with e85 in the past, but with boost should it be different?
I need to go get coolant next and I’m waiting on my welder to have some free time to do my cold side piping. Once that’s done…guess what, I think it’s finally time to fire it up =] I’ll post back when the next step is done
So today, I bolted the turbo back up and tightened everything down on it, I went ahead and put both clamps on the oil return, filled it up with oil, put the spark plugs in (they were at .30 so I left them alone and will see how it likes that), and bolted the spark plug cover on.
Oh and most importantly of all…I set her back down on the ground for the first time since October =]
blurry shot
You’re getting close!
Yeeeep :iagree:
So today I went ahead and clean up the intercooler. Fixed all the bent fins, got all the dead bugs out of them, and re sprayed it black. Did 2 light coats, just enough to cover it. Now it wont be seen behind the bumper grille
Before and after shot
Some close ups of it
Came out looking brand new. Not bad for 30 minutes worth of “work”.
I then decided to pressure test the cooling system before I filled it up with coolant. I ran into an issue though…
I pressurized it to just 5 psi, watched the gauge, and after about 30 seconds or so I noticed it ever so slowly losing pressure. I checked all the hoses, made sure everything was nice and tight and repeated. Still lost pressure really slowly.
I’m not sure if pressure testing with air is different than with water…maybe it was never designed to pressure test air. Maybe it leaks cause it’s a shitty harbor freight tool. Maybe there really is a pinhole leak somewhere. I didn’t hear any hissing or any sounds of leaking air so at this point idk.
I think I’m just gonna fill it up with 100% distilled water tomorrow and then pressure test it again (if it doesn’t rain). That way if it does leak, it’s just cheap water I waste and it wont get anything dirty
So despite the fact that the cooling system was slowly losing pressure the other day when I tested it with just air…I went ahead and filled it up with coolant anyway (Acura Type 2). Welp…I pressure tested it with coolant in it and it seemed to be holding pressure ok. I looked under the car though and found a 4-5 inch puddle underneath the timing belt side. I figured the new water pump gasket that I had some issues with was leaking. I pulled the crank pulley and timing cover off, dried everything off, had a friend pressurize the system again (only 5-6 psi) and watched for the leak. This is what I saw
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tCqP-iYW-Bc&app=desktop
Now my Acura dealership shop manual says this …
Idk what is considered “a little”, but for it to leave a 4-5 inch puddle on the floor and to leak when the system is only at 5-6 psi when it’s designed to hold roughly 15…that’s not normal
From everyone I’ve talked to and what I’ve looked up, it’s a sign that the seal inside the pump is shot or going out. Either way the car is ripped apart again so I’m going to go ahead and buy a new oem water pump. I figure also, this is the second time this timing belt has been off during all of this, I haven’t replaced it yet so I’m taking this as an opportunity to finally do so. The timing belt was new in 2011 and has maybe 10k on it, but might as well put a new one on while I have the chance. Figure I’ll go ahead and get a gates racing one or something similar.
The goal was to start the car Thursday or Friday, and yet this is how it looks…again =[ I’m bummed, but shit happens. Better to take care of this now then down the road. I’m still going to go get my cold side pipes welded in the morning regardless of this. I’ve got the money for that, it’s getting done. I’ll stop by the dealer afterwards and see if they’ve got a pump in stock…ugh
Ordered a new oem water pump and gates racing timing belt today. No idea when those will get here, but until then not really much I can do.
I can however put the cold side piping back on cause it’s finally done! =] Had my buddy John weld it all up for me and it came out sick. Beads are all perfect and he even rolled a bead (think that’s what it’s called) on the ends of the pipes that will have couplers on them. I haven’t had a chance to throw it back on the car yet though
:drool:…those welds
Welded on a ghetto bracket I had made
Rolled a bead so the couple has something to hold onto
Cut an old 240sx downpipe my friend had given me to fit. Just going to use this temporarily so the exhaust doesn’t get all over the front of my block.
Even welded on bung in the proper position for me. Now I can put the wideband in there and be able to tune enough to drive the car up and down the street
Gotta say I’m more than pleased with how it all came out. Hopefully I’ll have a chance to put it back on tomorrow or Friday. And hopefully the water pump and belt get here early next week…
So put the cold side pipes back on that Sled welded and they fit perfectly. Even with all my ghetto markings and everything he got it all spot on
The bracket holds it in place so it doesn’t move at all and supports the weight of the bov
There is this bracket as well to support the weight from the lower portion
Now that I know it all fits, I’m going to pull it back off and wrap it in this dei titanium wrap. Then the piping will officially be done =]
Got the new water pump in today =]
Also got the intercooler pipe wrapped and the bov painted to match everything else.
I only wrapped the pipe that is visible. The rest is behind the bumper and that wrap is too expensive to waste where it wont be seen. Plus I only have about a foot left. Stuff gets used up quick. On a side note when I took that greddy bov apart, it’s built really well.
Water pump is installed, didn’t put coolant in it yet. If it leaked I was going to be too pissed off to do the wrap lol. I’ll find out tomorrow. Still waiting on my timing belt, and yes I’m going to get a vacuum block. I figured might as well. Plus I don’t have to pay for one since my friend owes me =]
Sick bay man, that bronze looks sexy, keep up the good work.
I cant believe I am just now finding your build thread! I love your set up, Keep at it man can w8 to see vids of you rolling her out:rofl: like you a year ago I am starting to collect parts for my own turbo set up for my db2.
To put your mind at ease, I’ve had my oil line routed EXACTLY like this for 3 years now without issue.
Nice work by the way and keep the updates coming!
Thanks. It really does lol So much nicer than the yellow that used to be in there. I look back at that and what was I thinking
Lol Thanks. Yeeeah it’s been a long thread, long project. Had that head gasket thing that set it back quite a bit, but I’m glad that happened cause I was able to improve things so much because of it. Good luck with your build, hopefully yours wont take quite as long as mine is taking. Make a thread, post some photos. I wanna see it
[QUOTE=92notec;2316405]To put your mind at ease, I’ve had my oil line routed EXACTLY like this for 3 years now without issue.
Nice work by the way and keep the updates coming![/QUOTE]
Thanks. I will man, it’s so close. Nice, I had see so many people do it like that I knew it was ok. Glad to hear of another person though who’s done it.
So today I waited almost all day for UPS to drop off my timing belt. My street or neighborhood must be on the end of their route because ups always delivers well after 5pm. They didn’t show up until 6:15. Fedex, usps I get my stuff by noon. Hate shipping with ups. Anyway…
The belt it self
It compared to the standard gates belt
Grippy looking teeth lol
Went on nice and easy. No issues or problems.
I’m waiting to find someone with an upper (technically called “middle”) b16 timing cover. I can’t put the valve cover back on until I get that on first. Figured a lot of people would have them sitting around since no one uses them and can’t seem to find one =[
Also waiting on my friend to get me the vband clamp to mount the temporary downpipe. Hopefully I’ll be getting that tomorrow. I’m also waiting on him to get me the vacuum manifold to hook up the boost gauge, bov, wg, and map.
I did order that -12 stainless line earlier tonight. That hopefully will be here early next week.
Oh I also filled the coolant system back up, pressure tested it and all seems well. No leaks, and it holds pressure =]
I know I’ve been saying this for a long time, but the goal is to get those last parts…and have the car fired up no later than next weekend. FINGERS CROSSED…
So yesterday I got that -12 stainless hose in the mail. Turns out they sent me the wrong thing =[ It clearly says -12 in the order, but they sent me a -10 instead. I had a buddy of mine stop by that hotrod shop on the way over to my house and he picked me up a foot of -12. It was more expensive, but at least it was the right size. I also emailed that company and they said they’ll send me the correct size free of charge. I wont need it now, but at least I’ll have it for the future.
After struggling to get it on (much tighter than the regular rubber hose) my friend and I managed to get it on it. I forgot to get a clear photo when the car was still in the air, but I held the phone underneath there when it was on the ground and this is the best shot I could get. The clamps look lose but trust me they’re not. They were tightened with a drill on the impact setting. That hose isn’t going anywhere…even without those clamps
Nice part about that^ somehow the turbo ended up at more vertical angle than before. It was clocked at something like 28 degrees and now it’s only at 17 =]
I went ahead today and got the valve cover put back on and checked all the wires and hose to make sure they were all hooked up and tight. I also went and made sure everything was torqued down to spec as well.
Also made this little bracket to hold the oil feed in front of the motor. I didn’t like how it was just hanging there and could move around. This isn’t squeezing or putting much force on it, it’s just there to hold it from moving around. I did wrap the part of the line it touched in electrical tape to prevent the steel and aluminum from rubbing on each other.
I’m currently waiting on an 02 plug for the temporary downpipe (2 bungs, only need one for wideband), and my vacuum manifold. Once I get that one It’s just a matter of putting fuel in, crossing my fingers and firing it up. Super excited and even though I know I’ve done everything correct and to the best of my ability I’m still nervous about it…
Nice progress, you are close. When you start it, basically look for fluid and exhaust leaks since the biggest change is oil going through the turbo and a new exhaust setup (housing/dp etc). I am still willing to bet that the oil return will leak without building a real AN line but I hope you prove me wrong lol 
. Is the turbo water cooled? What are you running for engine management/boost control?
Thanks. Yeah I’m hoping there aren’t any leaks or issues. Every oil seal and gasket is brand new (minus the rear main which was replaced in 2011) so as long as I put it all on correctly it should be good to go…I hope. lol I have very little worry about the oil return leaking. I’ll put a go pro under there when I fire it up though that way if it does leak right off the bat, I’ll be able to see exactly where, how, and why. The turbo isn’t water cooled. It’s just an oil cooled journal bearing garrett/agp 50 trim. As far as engine management, I’m gonna tune it for now (just to get it idling to make sure everything is good) on crome. When I get an actual tune at JMS Racing it’ll be on Hondata s300. For boost control, it’s gonna be wastegate spring only. 13lb spring, so it’ll be within 1 or 2 above or below that. I’ve never been a fan of boost controllers. I don’t wanna say oh I was only on low boost, or oh it’s hot today let me turn the boost down…oh wait now it’s cool let me turn it up. I hate all that. I want a standard set boost all the time.
Your looks nice, did you paint it that semyor paint or did you buy it new? if so which brand did you get?
Idk what semyor is or what you’re referring to. I’ve painted a lot of stuff, so can you be more specific?