Hello all, im sure everyone ask this question, but im starting to build my engine. I have a b18c5 block sitting in my garage waiting to be torn apart and rebuilt. I got the block for free from work, it spun a bearing, needs crank regrind.
Yes, I know it will cost a lot of money and will take me over a year to build…just give me your thoughts, opinions, maybe suggest other parts/brands and what not…thanks!
Here’s my plan as of yet…tell me what ya think.
B18c1 head (port and polished)
valve job
-----possibly camshafts, cam gears, valve train upgrade & valves
skunk2 or blox intake manifold
B18c5 block sleeved to 81mm w/ block guard
eagle rods
wiseco pistons (9.0:1 comp)
bearings (need help finding what i need)
cometic head gasket
Garrett GT35R turbo
--------- Compressor: T04S housing (4" inlet, 2.5" outlet) 56 trim .70 A/R , flows 65 LB/MIN
--------- Turbine: T3 inlet, 3" outlet (V-Band) 84 trim .82 A/R
650/750cc injectors
Tial wastegate
Tial BOV
intercooler
intercooler piping
custom turbo exhaust manifold
3" custom exhaust
Greddy Ultimate piggyback emcu!
Will will be running 10 psi daily and 15-20ish on the track
Don’t need blockguard with sleeves. Run OE head gasket, not cometic. OR bearings, Need atleast 1000cc injectors if you wanan run high boost on a GT35. And the greddy ems “piggyback” is crap no offence. I’d definantly look into something better for the price.
All in all, for the goals you ahve layed out, I woudl recommend a GT30R turbo versus the GT35. Better spool up and peak hp/tq will be earlier. And at 20+ psi it’ll meet your high boost whp goals no problem. If your goals were 600whp then I’d say GT35R. You have an idea of the engine, what are you gonig to do abotu suspension and drive train now to hold the power down, that will be atleast another few grand depending on what you want. I’d recommend Quiafe at the very least.
I recommend the GT30R for what you are looking for I think you will like it a lot better. I am looking to put down 550 and I will only be running 880cc injectors probably (I have been told they are more than enough)
the problem with the GT30R is there arent many around that I can find for cheap. I can find the GT35R for fairly cheap on ebay, GT30R on ebay are all expensive.
The Greddy e-manage is crap. I talked to a few people about them, but they say the Greddy Ultimate is way better. I compared it to hondata s300 and its got more options and i dont have to do any welding/modifying or my original ecu (which i prefer not to do).
I was told 750cc injectors were big enough for the hp goals I want but might get the 1000cc just so i can go higher if i wanted.
As for suspension. I’d probably get tien, tokico springs and tokico or kyb shocks (1.5" drop’ish). Im going to gets 17" rims with Z rated tires. I will need to find some custom or a company that makes upgraded axles (havent really done my research on that yet), and I already have quiafe lsd planned to go in the transmission and change my gsr 5th to ls 5th (wont need it racing anyway). maybe better sway bars, upper/lower strut bars on front and back. traction bars also if they make such a thing for FWD.
im basically building my car for fun and for learning purposes to help in the long run for work (technician at acura). Yes, it will be alot of money, like $5-10,000 (atleast its free labor for most of it). And it will take me like 2 years to build completely. Ill finish the motor setup first and leave it at low boost for the most part till I get suspension upgrades and atleast better axles.
btw, yall can give me contructive critisism (sp?) if you want. Im up for people saying im dumb or something and teach me something I didnt know! Thats what this project is for!
The thing with Greddy emanage units is, you ahve to buy alot of the things seperatly to tune it all. In the end, it’s no cheaper then Hondata S300. And it does not have more features then S300 as far as I’ve read. Search about the two on honda-tech and you will find lots of discussion on the EMU and how even the simplest system like Crome will blow it away cost wise for what you get. Something that has alot of features does not make it any better then something with way less. It’s in how useful those features are. If you buy a expensive turbo off Ebay, make sure you’re getting the real deal… All of them should be around or over a grand for the GT3X+ sizes. Axle wise, I would go with Driveshaft Shop(DSS) axles or Gator. 750’s are fine for 450whp. but 880’s would be ncie if you plan to push it all the time. Go with full-race traction bars for sure. $10,000 is a nice comfy budget to get everything. Regarding the 17" wheels and Z rated tires. I make about 425whp and anything less then BFG drag radials just spin, on anything less I don’t hook up till 4th, even if I roll into it in 3rd gear, midway through third it just starts spinning. I run the larger 25" tall tire drag radial as well on my 17" wheel. So I would recommended that if you want to stay 17". I run the 225/45/17.
You say you have a GSR tranny, I would be guessing teh B17 Ys1 short short geared tranny. I have the JDm J1 Xsi tranny which is almsott he same, onyl a tad logner, and if I am on the standard 205/40/17" rubber, I DO end up shifting into 5th at the 1/4 drags. With my 25" tall tires trappnig at 124mph, I am at about 8800rpm in 4th gear. So take that into consideration. When you make that much power, it’s actually worthwhile to have a slightly logner tranny or taller tire to lengthen your gearing not for traction, but for trap speed vs gear. Depends how high you wanna rev it I suppose, I run the supertech valve train which has been proven by dragsters that rev to 10,500+ all the time. I’m reving to 9500.
Well, I got the Greddy Ultimate in today. It came in a messed up box and looks like it had water on it. The allen key that came with it is rusted and I cant get one screw out that needs to come out. I think im going to drive to the guys place and see if he’ll even trade it for the Hondata S300…im liking the whole boost control on each gear on it. plus its made for honda!
can I ask what you running in the 1/4 mile?? would let me know if i need to put in a roll cage before I even go to the track.
edit: I have a b18c1 head / b18c5 block with b18c1 transmission
I am going with arp head studs, stock head gasket and stock bearing. Just need to do a regrind on the crankshaft, have the shop measure and tell me what sixe bearing, then order them from honda…$175 for all rod bearings and main bearings…I love being an employee!
I think this build will be fun and a good learning experience for me and hopefully it doesnt blow up within a year…yikes! and a guy at my work has an all motor integra and says with my b18c5 block I still wont beat him…(he doesnt know im building it and not jut swapping it in…lol! He only has a GSR motor with type-r pistons, skunk2 camshafts, adjustable cam gears, stage 2 clutch and suspension. (179whp was 144whp)…lol! atleast it was totally rebuilt.