Heres a quick guide to fix your slow power windows and rattles in your doors
First things first, you will need
Philips screw driver
10mm socket
12mm deep socket
some type of grease I used wheel bearing grease
I’m going to assume you know how to remove the inner door panel its not too hard at all.
Step one: lower the window about 3/4 of the way down, Then remove the two upper window stops.
Loosen these 2 10 mm nuts you don’t have to remove them just back them off
Slide this track towards the car then while holding the window push the window back or pull the track forward to free it. and pull the window up.
To remove the window you have to tilt the back end slightly up and pull away from the car.
as you can see my window had 2 broken guides.
after you have the window out you can remove the guides. Clean off all the old grease from the all the tracks and inside the door and you’ll see some gears clean those off as well. apply new grease. be careful at this stage, everything inside the door is razor sharp.
reinstall the tracks and window the same way they were removed. make suer they go back exactly how they were, match the fasteners up with the scratches in the paint.
Remove these 2 fluffy things from the top of the window, “refluff them” or get new ones, make sure they’re still in good shape. if these fail you’ll scratch your windows up.
reinstall them and move them closer to the window, these make the biggest difference in how tight the door feels.
:bowthank: I was going to buy a motor too in hopes that would fix it. Thankfully you wrote this up. Hopefully I can get this project in before winter hits… Now how about one to fix my slow teg that rattles
nice post, i think most of us have this problem, thats what japanese cars are all about - - bullit proof motors, but if one bolt rattles the whole car falls apart
This is something I’ve been meaning to do for quite some time now. My problem with the DA is that when I leave the window open only a few inches, it rattles like crazy. Once it’s lower than the half way mark it doesn’t rattle as much. I also noticed that there are scratches on the window from something inside the door panel. I’m assuming it’s that “fluffy” thing you were talking about. I’m going to service it once the car gets stored and I’ll post up my result. Thanks a million for the tips.
wish you would’ve wrote this like 1 year ago…i ended up fucking up my whole passenger side window & everything…i tried using my haynes manual to take out my window bcuz it would rolling up slow as hell! i ended up taking every single bolt & screw off & could put it back on the tracks and other crap…ended up paying $35 just for a mehcanic to put the window in to where the window will stay up & putting all the nuts & screws back in…the window doesn’t roll down or up it just stays up…does any1 know if u need to have your door panel connected to roll ur window down even if ur using the master window control from the driver side to roll down the front passenger side?
Yes do tell… I put mine back in with the broken guides ( funny same 1 on both windows) and the window doesnt set against the outside trim like it should until you close the door… Wonder how much they are???
Sorry not trying to thread jack but quick ?
So when im changing my new door from auto to manaul i have to take off the whole thing and then put the staff from the old on like the window and everything, or is there things i can change out that will make it easier.
I guess you can try the dealer or if not, try your local junkyard? And if that fails, you can always super glue it together? I don’t how good that’s going to hold though shrug
To replace the whole guide/slider assembly, there is a screw and a funny threaded flat, washer thing with 3 holes on it on the back side. What tool are you supposed to use to resist the torque of you unscrewing the screw and keep the funny washer thing from turning?
Quote:
Originally Posted by g2ig3i2i View Post
so what about this? to you have to replace the whole guides? Does the dealer still carry them?
I guess you can try the dealer or if not, try your local junkyard? And if that fails, you can always super glue it together? I don’t how good that’s going to hold though shrug
I eventually bought cheap used windows off a guy cuz it was cheaper than whatever part they wanted me to buy at acura. Look for glass thats badly scratched and isnt worth much otherwise…May be super cheap and have good guides. Then I just swapped the broken guide part with a new/used unbroken one from the doner window.
As for the three screws you need to remove, a big pair of vicegrips worked to stop the round flat nut on the other side of the glass. Maybe even a real tight gripping C clamp as well for the inner most ones. It was a bit of a pain, but eventually I swapped them and my door no longer screamed “THIS GUYS CARS FALLING APART” everytime I closed it with the window halfway down.
Dont try to glue it, it’s a waste of time, wont hold…Ask me how I know…
I was able to get the old window out without much force, some protuberance from the threaded shaft that goes through the washers to hold the window guides to the window was interfering with the outer trim on the top of the door on the outside.
Now, when I go to put in a new window with new guides, the rear threaded shaft (on the drivers side front window of a 2 door) interferes with the door metal. I think I need to get the outside trim piece off but I don’t know how. The scanned page on my copy of the helps is folded over on that page.
Anybody have tips on how to get it off without breaking all the clips? I can’t really see how the clips are working as its a blind area and i already heard one of them break.
nice post, i think most of us have this problem, thats what japanese cars are all about - - bullit proof motors, but if one bolt rattles the whole car falls apart 
