we did my brothers da foglight rewire and after that, the defroster fuse keeps blowing and after that, it would smoke s we took out the fuse. i rewire my foglight using the main g2ic teg tip on all my last four da and nothing happen but i did this to my brothers and it just keeps blowing fuse. i checked all wire and everything is hooked up good. no loose or touching metal wire. so what is it?
where in cali you at? i could check it out if your in san diego
lol. thanks bro but im in central ca
well what i did was with the red/yellow wire from the fog light switch was run it to a 12 volt source on my fuse panel and thats how i rewired them i didnt use my defroster and it works good just make sure to turn them off when you get off your car because they wont turn off by themselves or also try a bigger fuse that just might be the problem
Doing it through the defrost button works as well, if done properly. The OP even says he’s done it successfully before.
I have heard debate of overloading the circuit by having fogs and defrost on at the same time. I turned both on for a few minutes on my car and never had issues.
Regardless, it sounds like something is wired improperly… smoking is definitely not supposed to occur with this mod lol.
Did you remember to cover up the bare wire from the fog harness that you cut? Though unlikely, it could theorhetically cause a problem. Double check for correct wiring, connections, etc and make sure the appropriate size fuse is being used. There’s definitely something wrong with the wiring.
I also used the fuse panel as a power source, there are like 4 or more empty small blades that you can just hook up to, I have seen the defroster method work as well but with your issue now I would try to other wiring method and see if you get different results.
There is no chance of an overload when using the defrost method, the added load is less then 250mA, [it only powers the fog light relays coil], with that said…
Honda/Acura gives you power “free pins” on the under dash fuse box to wire added electrical loads, very good if you want to rewire something, like fog lights, there is a 12V+ constant, [hot at all times] a 2nd ign.,[hot in run] and a park light free pin, [hot with park/head lights on], use 2nd ign. if you want to have fogs on without other lights, use park light free pin if you want them on with only park light, [also on with head lights, high or low beam] use the 12V+ constant only if you can remember to always turn off the fogs, or you like the PITA of a dead batt. 94
[QUOTE=fcm;2214709]There is no chance of an overload when using the defrost method, the added load is less then 250mA, [it only powers the fog light relays coil], with that said…
94[/QUOTE]
Nice to know! Thank you sir.
i was looking at this write up…am i looking and understanding correctly that the defrost and foglights will work simultaneously with this rewire unless i rewire through the fuse box?
Yes they will work at the same time with no problems if wired on the same circuit.
i’m not 100% sure i’m a fan of that.
Many have had it that way for years with no issues… Myself included.
Look at fcm’s explanation… with a minimal 250mA added load, there’s no way the defrost circuit could be overloaded. As long as you splice into the right wire, and cover the wires properly there should be no issue.
If you’re uncomfortable with that, do what fcm said and run straight to the fusebox. Its just more time consuming for virtually no difference in functionality or reliability.
i’m more or less not a fan of the rear defrost on all the time…but yea i read all up on teh minimial load put on that circuit…i may do it. i’ll prolly do it the same day i install my one pieces
Rear defrost is NOT on all the time… you’re just tapping into the power source of the defrost.
So rather than your headlights needing to be turned on for the fogs to work, you will be able to turn them on at any time as long as the ignition is on.
I’m saying you can have both fog-lights AND defrost on at the same time, if needed, with no circuit overload.
I’ve been pretty successful in doing the fog light rewire. Instead of actually cutting the wires and splicing them. I simple just did a T-splice into the rear defroster wire, I cant remember the colors off the top of my head. When I had them cut and then spliced them, my rear defroster wasnt actually working too great. Never had a problem with blowing out fuses so it definitely sounds like a wiring issue. I dont know if I made any sense but I hope I was able to help out even the slightest bit.
[QUOTE=unified112;2241554]Rear defrost is NOT on all the time… you’re just tapping into the power source of the defrost.
So rather than your headlights needing to be turned on for the fogs to work, you will be able to turn them on at any time as long as the ignition is on.
I’m saying you can have both fog-lights AND defrost on at the same time, if needed, with no circuit overload.[/QUOTE]
but if you’re tapping into the rear defrost ‘button’ dont you have to turn on the rear defrost in order for the foglights to run?
No. You’re tapping into the WIRING of the defrost button. So whenever the defrost button gets power (Ignition on), the fog-light switch is also getting power. Rather than power being fed through the headlight-switch.
Trust me.
Edit
Look at it this way… What you are imagining is on the Left side. You’re thinking that the Defrost Switch MUST be On for the Fog Light Switch to receive power.
But in actuality, its more like on the right side… When you splice into the Defrost, you’re sharing the Switched 12V Power that occurs when the Ignition is On.
Forgive the rudimentary picture… MS Paint FTW! But trust me, you’re thinking about it the wrong way.
that works, thats what i was thinking, that the defrost had to be on in order for the fog light to work, thanks man.
No worries brotha. Just splice into the defrost and you’ll have fogs whenever you want, as long as the ignition is turned on.
has anyone not tapped into the parking lights to run the fog lights?