Try something a little more extreme like 28 in the rear, 40 is a good front pressure. What works for some people may not be favored by others, for instance Ben is not exactly excited about how my car behaves.
errr typo
What do you want from your car? Those rates are less than what I have with a B18.
:werd:
Ben
I want to be able to auto cross getting tried of going just sraight. So this is a street car if it makes a difference. I plan on doing my whole suspension.Just put it these way i dont know shit about suspension but yet i want to be able to go autocrossing and do good along with good street handling. I hope i answered your question.
you should be fine with those rates then, anything more will yeild a harsh ride.
I’ve had all 3 cars…A 90 ED DX, a 91 Si and now a 92 LS DA…Although in theory everything swaps over from the Civic to the Integra, The front shock valving on the Koni’s is much softer for this application then for the Integra. The length of the shock bodies are within 1/4" of each other. The only main difference is in the height adjustments on the shock perch (The Da only has 3 settings and they are very close together, the ED/EF setup has 3 setting 1/2" apart.)
I’ve run against the 2002-2003 National Championship car on several occasions in all 3 cars. The DX could not hold it’s ground, The Si was right there, and so far, the LS has proven to be very competative.
This is the setup “I” prefer, and have had much success with it over the last year with this vehicle:
Front camber: As much as you can get and still have 2" of shock travel (Should be in the 1.5-2 degree area)
Rear camber: Even out ride heights to front (should also be in the 2 degree area)
Front toe: 1/4" total toe out ( Will go through tire about every 10,000 miles on the street)
Rear toe: zero
Stock swaybars: front and rear
Spring rates: 500 front 400 rear
Tire pressures: 42 front 30 rear
only modification made to the vehicle was a custom 2.5" cat back exhaust with no resonator and a Flowmaster muffler. (Standard GM 2.5" in/out)
No intake mods done, no crazy HP gains…All in the suspension and alignment…
Advice:
1)Spend some money on suspension(Koni off the shelfs work perfect) Buy a Coilover kit (I prefer the Ground Control only because they are very easy to deal with and use Eibach springs)
2) Get into an Autocross school (Evolution or even a really good regional school will help, but Evolution has the top National drivers teaching you what they know)
3) Get as much seat time in YOUR car as you can, you will see improvements.
All results for this vehicle can be found at www.autox4u.com look under North Jersey Region
For PAX comparisons, look at the Civic(s) I ran in 2002-2003…The Integra has NOT lost a step in PAX even after the PAX weghting got tougher this year for STS…
Good luck, and I firmly beleive that this car “could” will a National Tour event, a Pro Solo would be tougher because of the short course format…But give this motor a change to breathe and I think it’s a real threat…
BTW…I built all 3 of these cars for less than $6,000 including the purchase price of the cars.
Hope this helsp and good luck…
Jeff
good info. cant wait to get on a track with my h22 and my sus…
Are you gonna be in Street Mod, or Street Prepared?
wow. front stiff. Weird.
btw, MrFrost took 3rd in STS at a national tour event last year in a 93LS with only skunk coilovers, agxs and azenis. So it could be won.
Ben
Yeah but Kevin McCormick in a now outlawed Civic totaly kicked my a$$, but I beat his co-driver.
none of those nnjr results work, so how how close are you to the winning car (Chris Shenfield’s?)?
Tad and I had been running neck and neck…Last event I got him by 7 tenths…
I can’t get around Chris though, closest I’ve come so far is 9 tenths…But this is before I replaced the fornt shocks, so …We will run again later this summer, and we’ll see what happens…But Tad and I run every event together so it’s an easy gauge as to how the car is progressing…
Front stiff…On paper it shouldn’t work, but the way I drive the car, I go in very hot and deep, and yank the wheel for turn in under left foot braking and then accelerate out…Treat every corner as a late apex. The rear rotates niceley but not as to become “loose” in the slaloms…
Only really problem I have is a push under full throttle. Finishes at most Pro Solos give me hell because the car can turn, but it won’t unless you pedal it a little. The deabte on this issue has been in every Honda/Acura forum for years…This setup suits my driving style better than the way most of everyone else does. I can’t drive Tad’s car the way it’s setup…It is definately faster IF you get it right, but you are constantly trying to catch the car in transitions.
I though Kevin redid his car to become “legal”…Threw out the STD hatch and got a “real” SI
Jeff
He did. MrFrost was talking about when he raced against Kevin last year.
Congrats Mr.Frost. It’s nice to see a DA be competitive. I will agree with what you said. From talking to other people, my settings on my Konis are the exact opposite of what most of them are running. I usually run them about 1/4-1/2 a turn off full stiff in the front and the same off of full soft in the rear. My only guess is that I didn’t cut the stock bumpstops in the rear and in a turn I’m bouncing off of them infinitely increasing my spring rate and I’m having to stiffen up the front to help compensate.
A buddy of mine has:
KYB AGX with rear stiff as poss and front 3/4 stiff
Susp tech rear sway
Neuspeed race
-1.75 camber in F -1.5 in R
GSR front strut brace
LSD
Bent something to give very slight toe out in rear (or so he says)
I have ridden with him, I cornors nicely, but when he lays on the gas heave, it feels almost as if it’s a RWD. The rear swings around, and if he keeps on the gas and has the wheel turned. the DA6 will do a 360.
What do you mean by this?
good info 
heh now i have some questions for u veteran autoX’ers
i’m sure i’m gonna be stuck in a tough catagory… being turbo’d and all…
i’m just doing it for the enjoyment of the sport but i still want my car to handle well.
i’m trying to figure out a good shock combination.
i could buy a set of 4 tokico alluminas
or i could buy a pair of front Koni Yellows and something a bit cheaper for the rear. (i could buy full set of 4 koni yellows but i REALLY dont wanna spend that kinda money right now)
whats the best option without going all out and buying full set of yellows?
how would i best setup my 93 RS turbo (smaller, quick spooling) to handle well for autox?
also this is my daily driver so crazy alignment (toe/camber) is not something i want to do.
My advice to you is save your money until you can afford all 4 Koni Yellows. Don’t even bother with the Tokicos, you’ll end up getting rid of them anyway.
why do you say that about the illuminas? just curious, i’ve heard other people make similar statements in the past but didnt get a good explanation as to why.
Because, they’re overall not as good as the Konis.
Konis can be rebuilt, to your specs. Tokicos can only be sent back for replacements.
Konis are valved stiffer, mostly in low speed valving. Low speed is key. They both have about the same high-speed valving.
Ground Control makes threaded sleeves that attach securely to the Konis.
Spring rates have the most effect in sweeper corners. Shocks have the biggest effect in slaloms. There’s a reason why you can spend 200 dollars on the best race springs, and 5000 on the best shocks.