this is some excellent reading on o2 sensors and some alternate (and better) o2 sensor and how to take advantage of them to tune your air fuel ratios.
i have no idea what that whole thing said
what the heck am I suppose to be reading their, it didn’t even make since???
late…
Good info. That guy needs to tune his writing style, though.
Ben
That is a really good write up. Definately something to bookmark…
ARCHIVETHIS
Later,
BR
The UEGO sensor is different than the “regular” ones we have on our cars. The ones we have basically only show if you are rich or lean or ok (narrow band). The UEGO (wide band) ones can tell you exactly where your air/fuel ratio is. The lean-burn engined Civic VX from 1995 has this UEGO sensor, and you can buy one for a little more than 100 dollars. If you try to buy this same sensor from motec or horiba it will be many times more expensive. The other one works differently than the ones we use, so you can’t just go out and swap types.
hey mos,
that o2 sensor on the 95 civic VX is it like the bosch LSM-11 o2 sensor? if so, that might be the way i wanna go 
or does it require some “translation” box
i’m wanting an a/f meter that i can use to tune my car but dont wanna spend the $$$ for motec…
i can probably make one but need the acurate o2 sensor.
for you guys who dont understand…
what this article is about is tuning your car with an Air/Fuel meter…
and the only way you can get an accurate reading of a/f ratio is with a good o2 sensor… the ones our tegs come with are “narrow band” and only are accurate around 14.7:1 a/f ratio (stoich) so if the ecu doesnt see “stoich” then its constantly adjusting to get stoich… so it really doesnt need a “wide band” o2 sensor…
but for someone wanting to monitor their a/f ratio, they need a ‘wide band’ o2 sensor or you’ll just get that “bouncing” affect on your a/f guage thats soo annoying.
for most people that arent doing anymore than i/h/e and a few other bolt ons…they dont need this… but if you are trying to tune your car for max hp… this is the way to do it…
people with agressive cams… bigger than the crower 403’s probably will want to use a/f mixture to tune their car… at low rpm, they’ll be running really rich… so an Apexi SAFC or Field’s Hyper SFC is needed to lean things out. i’ve also learned that its even better to do this with an adjustable FPR because you can bump up your Fuel pressure and let the AFC/SFC lean everything out again… if you dont have a FPR, you can richen or lean out everything except for WOT and u can only lean that out cuz you cant get any more fuel pressure… but if you have adjustable FPR and increase fuel pressure, u can richen up at WOT if needed with the AFC/SFC
a side note… with crower 404’s or bigger… (also include any other LS cams with similar lift/duration characteristics) you will want to up your compression ratio… in my case, i’m installing some PR3 pistons… (1st gen b16a pistons) that will bring me up to 11.5:1 CR…
vtec guys, all this a/f stuff relates to you too, but since i have LS motor, i havent researched as much about requirements on the vtec motors.
also note that the ultimate a/f controller is the hondata stage IV system, that is if you have the money to buy one and get dyno tuned.
Originally posted by 93integraRS
in my case, i’m installing some PR3 pistons… (1st gen b16a pistons) that will bring me up to 11.5:1 CR…
Those pistons wont bump your CR that much. With an all stock setup (bore, head and block height, etc) you are looking at getting 10.8 with those pistons.
To get that high of a CR you would have to do what I am doing… 11.45:1 with .25 over PCT pistons.
Later,
BR
my head is also shaved .030"
Originally posted by 93integraRS
my head is also shaved .030"
Now that would do the trick…
Later,
BR
The Bosch LSM-11 is the one that the article says you can use to replace your stock sensor. With the VX sensor you will need a translation box. I’m still not sure that swapping the stock sensor for a wideband is a good idea. If someone tries this, let me know how it goes.
Making a translation box is not that hard. There are instructions on how to do it on the web. There are places where you can buy a parts kit online, which have everything you need. included.
hmmm… i like that idea… now to find the info on the translation box.
For those interested in a wideband o2 This place http://www.techedge.com.au/vehicle/wbo2/default.htm offers a good deal if you are not in a hurry. There were some members of Honda-tech that were ordering these awhile back. I would think that you could search their site and find some more info.
AWESOME!!!
thats what i’ve been looking for 
wonder how long it would take for them to ship the kit LOL i guess i’ll find out soon.
I ordered and built the tech edge kit. It comes with everything except the wires. I havent tried it on a vehicle yet though. I’m not going to use it until I finish building the display module. I’ll let you guys know how it works if I ever get around to using it.
so I did some studying on the tech-edge kit and the hondata stage 4 system and I’m pretty sure that you can use this kit for a wideband 02 sensor instead of paying a bajillion dollars for the horriba one.
Look at the AFR versus voltage charts and look at how you can edit the charts in hondata’s wideband tuning section.
http://www.techedge.com.au/vehicle/wbo2/wbVout.txt
http://www.hondata.com/techwidebandtuning.html
does anybody else see this?
if it works, you can also use the lcd display for AFR and then log the lambda values in hondalogger for hondata. this could be exceptionally useful on a dyno.
If you’re looking for a cheap way to log data check out labjack.com. I have one of these also, but havent had time to try it out. Its 100$ and allows you to hookup analog sensors to your pc for logging data. The included software is VERY bare bones, as it is designed as basic interface box for any application (security system, automated home control, scientific testing, etc.). Not just for cars, but it could work for logging data during dyno runs. Its USB and works with windows 98/ME.
You might even be able to hook it up to a laptop and tap into your existing honda OEM sensors, but it might skew your sensor’s output to the ECU a bit.
hmmmm.
o2 sensor input
rpm input
logged data at 1/8th mile drag
could help tune a car that didnt have access to a dyno??
The labjack has outputs too. You might even be able to setup a labjack/laptop to intercept signals from your sensors and output to the ECU. That way you “trick” the ECU into doing what you want. If you did this you would be forced to have the laptop on at all times while driving since the labjack requires a computer to be connected to it. Not sure if this is possible, but I can’t see why not. You might need to get someone familliar with programing to help you with this. I’m also not sure if this is a good idea because your car would be reliant upon your windows laptop not crashing. It’d be a shame to melt a piston because of a windowsME crash. There are cheap ready made products for doing this type of thing on the market already tho, and you don’t have to worry about those ones crashing, or taking up use of your laptop either. Purpose built data logging systems are not cheap yet however…
yeah i understand what you’re saying… too bad they didnt make lapjack for win2kpro… since thats what i’m running on my PC…
i’d prefer to just use it as a data logging system, and not to actually try to change the signal and feed it back… unless it was 1:1… and then i’d be afraid like u were saying about the stability of windows…
i’ll let the SAFC do the job of modifying signals.