Your clutch will work fine in a hydro tranny as long as you have the 92+ clutch. The 90-91 tegs use a different clutch disk.
The problem is that the hydro tranny will not work with your cable equipped car. It is possible to get it to work, but it is spendy and a headache. Just go with the b18a cable tranny unless you can score a shorter geared tranny from a first gen b16 or b17.
The 90-91 LS came with 130bhp stock, the 92-93 LS came with 140bhp and the 94+ LS came with 142bhp. If you do a search you will find out why, but to save you the time it is because of the intake/exhaust manifolds and cams.
If I had to guess what your 1/4 mile time would be I would say that you would hit high 15’s at best with a good driver, maybe an even-low 16.
Strength: An NA motor is going to endure significantly less strain than a turbo motor. So there isn’t as much of a need to go all out. Depending on how much boost you want to run you’re going to want to get aftermarket pistons, rods and possibly resleeve the block. With most NA setups all 3 of those parts can be left oem.
[/B]
I think your wrong there buddy…
high reving kills the motor first… in order to make power reving high is necessary. The piston will load up against the cylinder walll causing it to turn into an oval shape letting oil slip by, and into the combustion chamber… then BAM! detonation.
If I had to guess what your 1/4 mile time would be I would say that you would hit high 15’s at best with a good driver, maybe an even-low 16.
Later,
BR [/B]
Thats bad BR, cause I was running low low 16’s when I was bone stock, I ran a 16.2 or 16.3 as a best time I think? I thought wrong obviously, Cause I would have sworn the mods I had would get me to the mid 15’s…That sucks…:sad:
As for the clutch the damn thing is a 91 clutch!
Yeah, I know, but I/H/E dont make any power except for at the top of the powerband, and your rarely there in a virtually stock LS.
All that I/H/E does for your car is get it ready for real mods, it basically opens it up for bigger and better things, like cams.
You actually lose low and midrange power by doing the I/H/E…
Depending on the driver you could get your car into the high 15’s like I said.
So, I suppose my next question would be, What in your opinion on the best tranmission for me, Should I rebuild the ole 91 LS…?
Or is there a better tranny thats cable I can slip right in?
If so what is the name for it. Also what is the name for the 91 LS tranny in a 5 spd.
Originally posted by ncollini So, I suppose my next question would be, What in your opinion on the best tranmission for me, Should I rebuild the ole 91 LS…?
Or is there a better tranny thats cable I can slip right in?
If so what is the name for it. Also what is the name for the 91 LS tranny in a 5 spd.
Yes, there are other trannys that you can put in to replace your 91 tranny. For instance, I have a 91 LS and I took my stock tranny out and replaced it with a GSR YS1 tranny off of a b17a. The gearing is much shorter and the car accellerates MUCH faster with it like that. There are downsides though, like if you do a lot of freeway driving you are going to be up higher in the rpm’s because it is geared so much lower.
I would recommend that tranny for anyone with an LS that doesnt mind getting less mpg and more wear on their engine from being higher up in the revs than normal.
Sure, it is a trade off and isnt for everyone, but do some research and find out what you want to do.
Any b-series cable transmission will bolt up to your block, that consisnts of the JDM j1, s1, y1, ys1 and the USDM a1, s1, ys1. There might have been a couple that I missed, but I dont think so.
The 91 LS tranny you have is either an s1 or an a1, just check the sticker on your tranny right next to the radiator fan, it should say.
Thanks BR you have been a lot of help so far. I have the trans out right now replacing the clutch and I found I had a busted trans mount, I didn’t even know. Is that normal to have that kinda wear…?
Also I am going ahead and replacing the rear main seal…Is there anything else I need to replace while I am in there…?
Aside of cours from the pressure plate, throw out bearing, and pilot bearing…?
You should be good with replacing that stuff and leaving the rest alone.
Torn motor mounts are common, especially the front one. I just did a clutch in another members car the other day and the front mount was torn also. The other ones checked out alright though.
The only other thing I would recommend is that you get your flywheel resurfaced by a shop unless you want to do it by hand with some sandpaper. It is cheaper and doesnt take that long if you use the sandpaper. You just have to trust yourself to do it.
I’m planning on having a built NA ls engine too and couldn’t help to butt in here and get some info from BR.
BR: what do you think about the Gude head package? ALLMotorLS have the head package and with some other mods he’s putting 160 whp. And he’s running stock bottom end, so that means that there’s still room for extra horses. Heres athread where you can see ALLMotorLS kick as$ setup.
My budget right now is 3 grand to give my teg an engine makeover. Someone told me for that money why not get a turbo, well if I get turbo i’ll end up spending some more $ to make my engine last longer that’s not going to be as reliable as a NA engine. Then my other friend is telling me to go LS/VTEC setup that I read on some post of BR other guys here that they don’t last that long. So my best bet right now is go with ALLMotorLS setup. I just want my car to be able to match up with stock gsr’s si’s specV’s , gts etc. If I get to do that i’m one happy man:)
BR do you think I can achieve my goal with the Gude head package and some other mods. later
I think that Gude makes some really good products and that you would be happy with one of their head packages. I would urge you to build the bottom end a little bit while you have the head off though. Get some higher compression pistons (PR3 or P30) and some rings to go with them and if you have the money you should get your rotating assembly balanced. That will help out a lot and give you some extra hp’s and a decent amount of added torque.
The only thing that you can achieve by doing the head is upper rpm gains, nothing down low. That is where building the block comes into play.
You can definately hang with some stock GSR’s and the like by upgrading the head like that and getting it tuned, but remember that all they have to do to get the edge on you is slap in some cams and they are good to go.
The GSR doesnt have the torque that the LS has out of the factory. The only stock b-series VTEC engine that has more torque than and LS out of the factory is the b18c5 (ITR).
I agree that the turbo costs way more than $3k. The turbo itself would cost that much and then you have to go and build the block to withstand boost, which is a spendy ordeal in itself.
The ls/vtec makes a lot of power and are good motors for the track but I dont recommend them for daily driven street cars unless you know everything about how they work so that you can fix them when they crap out on you, which they will eventually. The average lifespan of an ls/vtec that was built right is around 2 years.
If the ls/vtec was a good, reliable motor then honda would have produced one for the market.
BR…or any one for that matter…please help me !
I am so pissed right now, I cant even barely type this…
I just picked up my car from the shop, I had the clutch put in…The guy has done a lot of work on my car for me and I thought he was my friend…?
Well, anyway the problem is the clutch is installed and the cars all back together…I get in it start it and the car jump a lil…I figured it was just a rough start you know, hell it’s like 25 out. I go to pull off easing the clutch out very slowly as I didn’t know what to expect…As I eased the clutch out…it passes the point were it used to engage…nothing…passes further up…nothing…almost all the way out and boooooooom the car lunges 4-5 feet forward and stalls…What the helll…I am thinking?
So i figured it was me…and continued on my way home…Mind you it is 9:30 at night and the garage is clodsed for the day. So I continue to travel home …Long story short, the damn car drives like ****, you can’t let the damn clutch out easy…It just jumps like you dumped the clutch at 6000 rpms…
'So now I am driving home mad as hell …I pull into my condo complex and go to pull into a parking spot…Then my steering wheel starts to feel like it is slipping…theres not much of a turn…just into a parking spot…And I can feel masssive vibration in the wheel…It feels like the power steering is going out…?
What should I do…I know this isn’t normal…SHould I just go drag the Guy out into his parking lot and beat the hell out him…?
Please tell me my power steering is not going out…It was fine when I took it in…The damn car ran great…all except the slipping clutch…now it’s been transformed into a hooptie…
What do I do…?
You just had the Exedy clutch put in??
If so, it should be alright and feel almost like a stock clutch. I know because I just installed one a few days ago and drove it for a little bit.
I think that they might have just messed up on adjusting the clutch cable and that is why it is grabbing so high. You should be able to fix that by adjusting the clutch.
The Exedy organic clutch isnt a harsh clutch at all and should grab just about the same as a stock one with a little bit stiffer pedal feel.
As far as the power steering, I dont know what is going on there. I guess you could make sure the speedo sensor is in the tranny and tightened down. Just make sure that it doesnt wriggle around when you mess with the speedo cable.
I have to take off for a while right now but I will be back in a little bit if you need help.
I do need help…How exactly do you adjust the cable for the trans…?
Also were does the speedo cable go in…?
Could that really make a difference…?
Let me know when you get back ont…Thanks BR!
Alright, the clutch cable is the cable that is held by the 2 brackets on the backside of the valve cover held on by the acorn nuts. It comes out of the firewall and goes to the transmission.
There is a part on the cable just before it ends that is a knob with notches in it. There is a rubber stopper that holds it in place by being in one of the notches.
You can tell if it is too loose by how much the clutch release arm moves up. The clutch release arm is the part that comes out of the tranny that the cable ends at.
If there is much play in it when you try to pull it up then it is way out of spec.
What you need to do is turn that knob on the cable clockwise until you feel it start to tense up. When that happens there will be no more play in the clutch release arm. That will put you closer to the specified adjustment.
After that, get in your car and push the clutch all the way down and let it all the way up about 5 times. That will get any slack out of there and then you will have a better idea of where it is adjusted to.
Basically, you want about an inch of freeplay at the top of the pedal where there is NO resistance and that will be within spec.
Try doing that and see what happens.
If you are in dire need of assistance after that you can give me a call, just email me at mynameisbr1@attbi.com and I will give you my number.
As far as the speedo cable goes, it probably doesnt have anything to do with that, it is just the only part of the power steering system that is messed with while doing a clutch.
Why dont you just get a flashlight and look down at it and make sure that the two power steering lines are attached to it still. The speedo cable goes in to the top and then there are two hoses that come out the side for the power steering.
That is all I can think of for power steering related problems after a clutch install.
It is located on the back of the transmission just under where the throttle body is. It is kinda hard to see at first but once you see it you will know what I am talking about.
Originally posted by ncollini -HKS Hiper Cat back
-Carsound High Flow Cat
-DC Stainless Header
All of the above have been custom glass coated for better airflow and protection against the elements.
The glass coating is something my company does, If you are interested email me… ncollini@cinci.rr.com
BR I am going to try to adjust the cable this afternoon, I hope thats all it is. I can’t really think of what else could cause a problem like this…? I always though a clutch either works or doesn’t…?
Thanks
Originally posted by ncollini BR I am going to try to adjust the cable this afternoon, I hope thats all it is. I can’t really think of what else could cause a problem like this…? I always though a clutch either works or doesn’t…?
Thanks
A clutch that is out of adjustment can feel like a broken or malfunctioning clutch.
When installing a new clutch you have to do that pedal trick I told you about a few times to take any slack out in the system.
I am guessing that if you pull up on the clutch release arm that you will have probably an inch of play in it from how you described your problem. Just take that out and it should be good.
I am stating all of it like this because you said your mechanic has been working on your car for a long time now and has earned your trust. If that is true then it is probably something as trivial as the problem I am talking about. If not, you need to get your car back there and let him know whats up.
BR, I really appreciate all the help…It’s people like you that make this a better board!!! Your taking a lot of time out to help a newbie!!!
The cable was so so easy to adjust…unbelievably easy…lol
The clutch is still off a lil bit. I didnt pull up the release arm yet…just did a lil investigating and a minor adjustment…Which made a significant differance.
The power steering prob seems to be the fluid is low…! Would they have needed to drain it at all…?
I have another question though…
I had to drive in the rain today with the CAI and I have not put on my bypass valve yet…were is the best place to put it…the pipe is a one piece?