I am glad that I could help you out with your teg. It sounds like a little more tweaking on the cable and you will be good to go with a new clutch.
Dont be surprised if you have to adjust it again in a month or so. At least you know how to adjust it now. Just make sure to get it within spec this time and next so your clutch breaks in right.
That reminds me… Do you know about the clutch break in period?? 500 miles of easy stop and go driving, highway miles dont count towards that 500 miles either.
There is no need to drain the power steering fluid, but the speedo sensor does have the power steering ran through it. I would guess that if there is a leak that happened during the clutch install that one of those hoses got a hole in it.
Just fill it up for now and see if you lose anymore fluid. Hopefully you wont.
You cant put the bypass filter on a CAI that is one piece. You wont need the bypass anyway. I have been running a one piece custom made CAI for a couple years now and I have never had a problem with it, and I live in Seattle.
As long as your splashguard is on and covering the filter then you have nothing to worry about. Just avoid deep puddles.
Yeah, I have heard about the break in period…man its so so hard to do…I drive mostly on the highway…never in the city…lol
I have heard different stories though…some have said…thers no such thing as a break in period…others say it’s extremely critical…I have just been keeping it easy…trying to stay below around 4000rpms and no fast launches.
As for the clutch adjustment…You probably already told me but…what is the specs that it should be adjusted to? And, how do I measure it?
Look at the break in period this way…
If your driving your car hard after a new clutch is put in and something happens like the disk breaks or you burn out your disk surface then the manufacturer will not warrant the product and your out however much it cost you to buy the clutch AND the labor X2.
Some people get a new clutch put in and beat the hell out of it and have no problems, horray for them. I would NEVER do that to my car because I would feel like an ass if I had to buy a new clutch and then do the install again. At least I dont have to pay for installs, but my clutch for example is just under $500 (Centerforce Dual Friction, which is stage 3).
It is up to you what you do with your clutch and how you treat it. I just know that I would break it in.
Try to get a hold of Exedy and see if their break in period is less than that for the clutch you have. It might be since it isnt a high stage clutch like mine. I just say 500 miles as a safe area for aftermarket clutches. I broke mine in for 550-600 after installing it to make sure it was all good.
You can rev as high as you want with a new clutch as long as the disk is fully engaged. In other words, just make sure that the pedal is all the way up.
When your clutch is in spec you should have about an inch of freeplay at the top of the pedal where there is NO resistance. If your clutch is out of spec then you risk damaging your clutch disk/pressure plate/flywheel.
I think I am real close on the adjustment then. Yeah I agree about the break in, I am also glad to hear it doesn’t hurt to rev high. I looked a t a centerforce clutch, clutchmasters, act. Then I looked at exedy, when I called the guy sold both ACT and Exedy, I was going to get the ACT Extreme, money in hand ready to purchase, he talked me out of it saying, ACT, as well as all the other companies remanufacture their clutches. And for that matter, ACT bought there clutches from exedy. So I purchased the exedy Racing clutch…300.00 instead of 510.00. This clutch was elegedly designed for high performance racing, equivelent to and I quote, “Exedy racing clutch is about 35% better holding power than OEM and can hold up to 250-275HP. You will notice a much better response (no slippage at high rpm) than stock.”
maybe he was full of it (and likely was), or just got a better commision off of the Exedy, Who knows. That day at that time…I beleived it and it seemed logical.
:think:
You start to convince your self of things when you need them. I wanted the clutch bad, any at the time. LOL
If it wasn’t for shareing this knowledge with the rest of us it would be easier for you two to trade phone numbers. BR is giving you some great advice, learn from it.
ncollini - The guy you talked to is right. A lot of aftermarket clutch manufacturers remanufactur their clutches, although I dont know exactly which companies do. When it comes down to it, all of the big aftermarket companies do a really good job on their clutches so I cant badmouth any of them.
I also know for a fact that Exedy, also known as Daikin, who is the OEM manufacturer of clutches for Honda, does not reman their clutches. It is some good shiz when it comes down to it.
My next clutch is going to be the Exedy Organic clutch set and I will be throwing in the Exedy lightweight flywheel with it so I can get rid of my Clutchmasters one. That will be in the future though, my Centerforce still has plenty of meat left on it.
Slacker - Yep, your right. I could’ve given him my number a while ago but if I just sit here and type everything out on the boards then other people can learn from it and access it in the archives.
It really comes down to the fact as to whether anyone would read through this much information, hehe.
Does the lightened fly wheel really make that much of a difference…? I heard it was a waste of money so I didn’t get it. Also, wouldn’t lowering the weight spinning cause the revs to go up & down much quicker? In turn burning out the synchros that much quicker?
Also, why would I want to get a ceramettalic clutch plate rather than organic…? It seems like organic would be all aorund a better product, with exception of the life.
By the way my clutch couldn’t be better, It’s great, if I wasn’t worried about the break in period, I bet I could get third !!!LOL
It feels great and engages so firmly, yet smooth and quiet.
The power steering was drained somehow, It took the whole damn bottle of fluid almost. (why is it that you have to use HONDA power steering fluid…?) BUt, it works great now…she’s prring, the gas mileage is a lil shabby but…?
Not that big a deal!
Just out of curiosity how many miles do you guys get to a full tank…?
ncollini - The lightened flywheel does make a pretty noticable difference and your are right, the revs go up and down a lot faster with one on there.
There is no added danger to the synchros by getting a lighter flywheel, so you dont need to worry about that.
I dont recommend the cerametallic clutch to anyone that is using their car for a daily driver. That is a race only clutch and is too harsh for a daily driven car. You should go to this link and read up on clutches. I posted a LOT of good info there. Check it out.
I am glad to hear that you clutch is doing better though. It is amazing how much a little adjustment like that can make, isnt it??
The reason that honda’s use their own power steering fluid is because if you use anything else in there it will eat away and disolve the o-rings and seals in the power steering system. Honda specially formulates their power steering fluid for their cars, exclusively. I always recommend that people get their fluid from the dealer over the auto parts stores. There are some aftermarket manufacturers of power steering fluids that say it is safe for honda/acura use on them, but I trust the real stuff a lot more.
I cant really say how many miles I am getting to a tank at the moment because I havent been driving my teg enough to really keep track. I would guess that I am at around 250 miles per tank though. I can break 300 on the highway as long as I keep the revs down.
Jason, a couple books I’m sure a lot of people have probably overlooked (mainly because I did for over a year) are the Cartech series books.
“Power Secrets” by Smokey Yunick
“High Performance Honda Builder’s Handbook” (Volumes I and II) by Joe Pettitt (notable RX-7 tuner, ask any hardcore FC/FD enthusiast about him)
VERY good info in all 3, if you’re looking for Honda-specific information you can stay away from the Yunick book but the other 2 i highly recommend…suspension, brakes, tires, driving techniques, nitrous, n/a, supercharger, turbo, transmissions, clutches, ignition systems…you name it, he covers it. in detail.
Cool, I usually get around 285-315
I used to get around 340-350 on the highway?
I always use shell 93 premium…?
maybe thats helps…I dunno. It’s just one of those things, I used shell and liked the way the teg ran and now, I only use shell premium. I drive on e for 20 miles if i need to to find a shell. I know,…:tsk:
Originally posted by zoomintegra
[B]Jason, a couple books I’m sure a lot of people have probably overlooked (mainly because I did for over a year) are the Cartech series books.
[/B]
I read another book that was really helpful…Honda/Acura Performance by street compact car (HP Books)
I learned a lot of the basics from it!!
Mark - Yeah, I am definately up for the honda tuning books. Not really into anything else at the moment, at least not anything that has a different layout than a honda engine.
ncollini - I used to get 300mpg back when my teg was stock the short geared GSR tranny and the rest of mods/tuning I have done kinda killed off the good gas mileage.
Originally posted by Thebeast128
[B]Would you recomend building up my head if I was going to run 15-18 lbs. of boost on my b18a1 or would it just be a waste of money?
Thanks!!
Scott [/B]
Prolly a good idea, although I would worry about the bottom end first, since thatz gonna take the most money.
Originally posted by Thebeast128
[B]Would you recomend building up my head if I was going to run 15-18 lbs. of boost on my b18a1 or would it just be a waste of money?
Thanks!!
Scott [/B]
Talk to the guys in the FI forum and see what they have to say. I do agree with Max though, get that block done before you even think about doing anything with the head.
