ok i have a 89 civic h/b wit a b18a1 wit b18b head and a stock rebuilt motor w/t3/t04,450cc,255 fuel pump and,s-afc1 fuel pressure reg 2 1/2dp and icp and i just wanted to know what i should set everything at to run 10-12psi and b safe,cuz battle is this weekend and i wanna run boosted,and i have everythiing i just need to know the settings, PLEASE HELP thanks
Anyways, isnt it time to update the guide? The principles are the same, and it’s awesome and all, but there are a lot of little things to be added, lots more info from places lime hmt, etc. I’d be willing to help.
im thinking of doing a turbo. . . but i dont know if my 250k motor would be able to handle it . . . .should i do the compression test just like the guide says?? my mechanic says my motor is in good condition … .my horsepower goal is around the 200+ mark . … . . should i consider rebuilding the motor . .has anyone put a turbo on there car with 200+ kms?
you can just make another informative thread, and we can make it a sticky and perhaps later add it to the guide. ya hmt has a few good stickies with part lists and links etc.
it doesnt matter how many miles you have as long as the compression is good and you keep the whp and rpms down. 200whp seems very reasonable for a motor of any age, with proper maintenence of wear-items of course (belts/pumps/gaskets/bearings).
it’s not like the crankshaft will ever break due to age, or the rods/pistons degrade SO much as to snap, or cylinders even. you can also look at it that way, given the average whp limit of each part, how close you get to it, and how much the part fatigues over time, i.e. crank (500+whp?), rods/pistons (~250whp), cylinders (400-500whp).
i was going to run the stock ls block at 220-250whp until it blows, while building an ls block on the side for 50bucks.
for a stock motor under 200whp? i decided to use ARP head studs and new oem gasket with copper spraying on both sides to keep a good seal. otherwise, everything should hold up. just remember good fuel management and tuning. the rest is just common mechanical sense imo.
great . .another question came to my attention .so lets just say worst case scenario my compression test doesnt turn out the way i would want it to be. . . .would it be wise to buy a another b18a motor with good compression and then swap … … .or would that turn out to be way too much work and money? :sipread: i mean i could rebuild or just buy like a b16a … . .
“great . .another question came to my attention .so lets just say worst case scenario my compression test doesnt turn out the way i would want it to be. . . .would it be wise to buy a another b18a motor with good compression and then swap … … .or would that turn out to be way too much work and money? i mean i could rebuild or just buy like a b16a … . .”
-bad compression test means the rings or maybe even valves/seals are on their way out, and boost will just speed up the process.
like i said, boost it till she blows while building a block on the side. at least with a motor on its way out, it’s ok if something goes wrong with the kit and affects the motor. its like a test bed so you don’t ruin the newly built one.
i found some guy selling a 95 ls special edition 2dr integar with leather seats,fat fives and an all . … . . .it has front end damage … . the motor starts/runs fine … .it has 110 000 kms on it . .the interior is in great conditon … .now what is this swap like??? i could definatley go this route . . .i cant believe this deal :excite: it isalso an american car so that like 65 000 miles. … .i looked in the engine swap guide but didnt see anything for swapping b18b1 in to our tegs . .???help
I’m up for updating the guide but I’d need help. What sections do you think need updating? If you’d like to write/re-write a section I’ll add it to the guide with credit (I reserve the right to edit it for accuracy, grammar, and style so that it matches the rest of the guide). You can email me at dave.baer@comcast.net if you want to help.