i was adding up all the expenses im putting into a project, i got a b16a and rebuilt it to stock specs but then herd they are TQ less, i got a b18c1 and was going to do a poor mans type r (i do not want a lsvtec) so i decided scence im low on cash now i will run the b16a. so i want to make up the lost TQ, so im thinking 5-7 psi should be reliable right? whats a good cheap setup i can run. like a used dsm turbo basically i need a shopping list. i dont want a ssautochrome kit from ebay so try hardest to stay away from there. thanks for you help
find a used log and garret t3 turbo. can get those cheap.
for that boost level do i need to upgrade any fuel or electronics
yes you still need to upgrade the fuel system run a 255 walboro fuel pump and atleast dsm 450 injectors. and a good tune. fuel pump is like $100 and dsm injectors $50-$75.
i know you said that you didnt wans ssac or xspower but if your not completly turned off by them then i have their new manifold design which i havent heard one case where it has cracked and the t3 turbo that i talked to a guy that ran 12psi on the same on i have so i might have what you need. all brand new.
http://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1823904
If going turbo turned out to be a “no go situation,” then my advice is:
-chikara stepped header for our cars
-injen short ram intake (weaksauce.com has these at really good prices)
-50-75hp wet shot (build your own kit; much cheaper, trust me)
You’ll more than likely be safe with OEM fuel pump with a 50 shot.
A B16 on a 75 shot, I would think that you’ll be seeing some high 13 sec. 1/4 passes, or if not 13’s, I would definitely say super low 14’s. Depends on if you can drive or not!
This is just my advice, and I hope that it is in some way, shape, or form, helpful to you. Good luck with whatever you choose!
your words “Good” and “Cheap” should not be in the same sentence. I went the cheap junkyard kit way on my car, and i shouldnt have (hence why i sold it). After installing several other kits ive figured out that a good solid kit will cost u around 1700$ (granted your a good welder)
$1700, um no. Guys at homemadeturbo.com have been boosting junkyard setups with nice results. It can be done cheap, like sub $500 and be decent.
I can’t believe 91integra157 asked if he needed fuel or electronics upgrade. You built a motor yourself, you can figure out that answer yourself.
:iagree:
My opinion is to not be afraid of used parts. The key to having used parts is to know what to look for when actually looking at them. Don’t just say “OK” and take one for the team. Instead, do your homework before you consider throwing down your dollars for something that is selling for an unusually low price.
For the original question, I would recommend that you go with nitrous.
Nitrous = the best bang for the buck, just like it always has.
i should know about homemadeturbo, I was once a moderator there.
yea u can go turbo for 500 if u can weld a manifold, use a DSM intercooler, tune ur own car, and buy the rest of your parts used. I used to have a junkyard setup, it wasnt bad at all, but turbo wasnt large enuff, welds looked like shit on my DP and IC piping (flux core). Turbo oils seals blew out. The key to HMT setups is “Decent” not good.
Find some1 relatively local and buy a turbo (so u can see it in person), which im a fan of. I dont trust the “minimal shaft play” quote. Pick up a used tial WG and an Ebay or used bov. IC, get on HT or hmt and find a deal, u can spend 75-300+ on this if u want. oil lines and engine management cannot be eliminated.
Test out the prices and quality of the stuff ur looking at and if u wanna put it on ur car go for it.
oi lines are easy. Get the bsp fitting and bend your own out of brake lines. Engine management is just about free. Chip your own ecu.
If your low on cash then you should stay NA. Your going to peice together a cheap turbo kit which will pretty much defeat the purpose of turbing a car b/c your running 5-7psi. Once you go turbo for the most part you will be spending money. Plus you have to have a decent amount of mechanical knowledge to attack something like forced induction on a NA motor. If you dont know whats need and hot turbo works then your just setting yourself up for failure. Turbo to me is only for serious speed enthusist that knows what need to go fast.
I agree, for the most part it’s difficult.
I would have to say that piecing together the turbo kit can be cheap but expenses come in when you want forged pistons and tuning to fine details of the rpm band.
It is hard, but you will never know how to do it if you never try. How many people here(that actually installed or built thier own turbo setup) had formal training on turbo systems?? I’m guessing the percentage is low. If you go for a junkyard setup, actually go to the junkyard, dont buy it online. You will just buy some other persons crap. A good way to learn what you need and to get a grocery list of what you want is to go to a book store or library and look through all of the books on building a turbo honda/acura engine…take a notepad and write it down. Or you could buy the books. Dont trust magazines because they are mostly sponser BS and only good for the pictures. Good luck.
Yeah, screw magazines. Those are just appealing to people that are after the trend and not diehard DIYers. Book store and library, yeah you can find good stuff. A definite read is Corky Bell - Maximum Boost. Otherwise you can scour the internet and find what you are looking for. It’s all there, you just have to search it out. The g2ic turbo guide is a great starting point. beestogoats something.
a full greddy kit (with intercooler) used is only 1700-1800, so if your junkyard setup is costing that much something is seriously wrong. i have seen some nice turbo setups for almost no actual money out of pocket.
If your serious about turbocharging your car on a budget get rid of both of those motors and put the stock b18 back in. Put a T3 super 60 on it @ .5 bar (~7-8psi) and tune it well. You can easily put down 200ft lbs/tq with that motor/turbo.
Pick your parts wisely, used parts can be used in almost all cases. The only exception that I would make is the Turbo, save yourself ALOT of headaches and buy it NEW.
Also a major $$ saver, dont buy a premade downpipe and/or charge pipes. Buy 4-5 2.5" Mild Steel Mandrels and make them all yourself. The downpipe will need to be welded but the chargepipes dont need to be.
Only use silicone couplers where you absolutly have to. Universal radiator hose cut into 3-4" sections make great couplers. You will easily save $75-100.
Shop around for t-bolt clamps. If you are buying them locally you are paying too much.
I got almost all my used parts from the forums here and on homemadeturbo.com.
If I think of anything else I’ll add it.
http://home.comcast.net/~chunk/mysetup/mysetup.htm
the g2ic turbo guide is www.beesandgoats.com.
Also helpful is the following:
http://www.dune-buggy.com/turbo/turbo.htm
http://www.turbominivan.com/tech/turbo201.htm
http://www.team-integra.net/forum/display_forum_topics.asp?ForumID=12
http://www.superhonda.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=9
http://www.turbo-kits.com/
http://www.g1teg.org/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=19657
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=21
There are plenty more also…these are just a few I have in my bookmarks. Hopefully this helps ya a little.
-Steve
Then there is still other options…the b20 vtec is supposed to be a nice powerplant…thats the beauty of hondas/acuras…there are tons of options and they are cheaper compared to other cars. have fun