Alright guys I’m building a bad A$$ motor for my G2 Teg I wan some opinions on it. Ignore the cost cause I know it’s a lot just tell me what you think.
B18 Block
B16 Vtec Head
CP 9:1 pistons
Eagle rods
Golden Eagle sleeves
Moroso Oil Pan
Type R oil pump
Ferrea Titanium valves, springs, and retainers
Golden Eagle Head Bolts
JG Elebrock Intake
Precision 880 CC injectors
Golden Eagle fuel rail
Aem fuel pressure regulator
MSD HVC Ignition box
MSD HVC Ignition Coil
Hondada S300
Supra intank fuel pump
MSD inline pump
Turbo XS Dual Stage boost controller
Tial 44MM wastegate
Tial 50MM Blow off valve
3" intercooler piping and intercooler
stainless steel downpipe
Precision SC61 turbo (rated for 650 flywheel)
Titan Clutch
ls/vtec conversion kit
Custom equal length exhaust manifold
Oil pressure gauge
boost guage
and professionally tuned
b16 tranny
when i built my b18a1, i first started with dart sleeves, had them bored out .030 over and stuffed billet je 8.6-1 comp. pistons and cromolly ringsin em. i had my crank knife edged and micro polished, before having it spun for balancing. i do run a block saver and would highly recomend it if you plan on turbo-charging, it will strengthen your sleeves and save you $ down the road! my connecting rods are eagles. i am running my non vtec ls head has been given a full race port and polish, and my valves are oversizedand are titanium ones, along with the retainers. i am running a stock intake manifold that has only been port matched for better air flow. i blew a seal in my compressor so right now i am not boosted. but i can say that if you dont build your engine for boost, the stock motor wont last long, and plus whatever miles are on it will just make it explode that much faster. if i were you i would build your motor specifically for boost, then worry about the turbo when its done. just my opinion so i hope that it helps. there are more things that i didnt mention, but i think you get the point.
i agree, youll def. see lag, but for a streetable car, the lag isnt going to be as noticable as good throttle response, and when boost hits, how long till full boost and so on.
you need bigger cams, look for the 01 itr cams if possible. i agree with getting smaller i/c piping, 2.5 will do you fine.
you have very close to the same setup as i have, but id recommend a smaller turbo. t3/t67, t3 60-1, something with a t3 .63 exhaust. it will really make a street driven difference in spool
your stock sleeves will absolutely become your weakest link, and if for some reason shit were to happen, they will go first (happend to me, my own fault but still). if you want 25 psi out of a sc61, sleeve the block, also get larger than 880’s. i think you might be running them pretty high duty cycle on stock fp
I said golden eagle sleeves in there. They will be 84.5 mm pistons. I want I was looking at an sc41 i think it what it was but it was too small for my final goals. I want overkill so I can go up not have more motor that I do a turbo. This motor will be fully built for boost. I have been told and read many forums where stock b16 cams are good enough for now. Eventually I will upgrade cams and do a port and polish. I am looking for a badass street car that I can take to the track 25 psi is no where near a max goal it’s a starting point. I mean I am looking for something with 500HP at the wheels on pump gas. and I was room to grow cause the money I am putting in I want to do it right the first time you know?
sounds alright except for the eagle rods. EAGLE RODS = CRAP for High HP cars!! As for the turbo, I would prolly pick up a GT36R. Its pretty close to a SC61 but it will spool a lot faster. I agree with the 3" being a little too excessive, I would prolly go 2.5 for more velocity. Also pick up a prodrive or a TODA oil pump gear. That oil pump gear will not last.
For my build I am using a Dart block, CP pistons, Eagle lightweight crank, Crower rods, B16 head, Type R cams, Type R valve springs, Ferrea Valves, GT40R, LOVEFAB Manifold etc.
sc-61 is way too big for our cars, u will maybe get peak boost at about 7k.
i wasnt aware that it was possible to run aftermarket sleeves and a block guard, unless it was the type of sleeves that had them built into the design like GE or aebs
sounds alright except for the eagle rods. EAGLE RODS = CRAP for High HP cars!! As for the turbo, I would prolly pick up a GT36R. Its pretty close to a SC61 but it will spool a lot faster. I agree with the 3" being a little too excessive, I would prolly go 2.5 for more velocity. Also pick up a prodrive or a TODA oil pump gear. That oil pump gear will not last.
For my build I am using a Dart block, CP pistons, Eagle lightweight crank, Crower rods, B16 head, Type R cams, Type R valve springs, Ferrea Valves, GT40R, LOVEFAB Manifold etc.
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sc-61 is way too big for our cars, u will maybe get peak boost at about 7k.
That is crap
My friend has one on his built b16. Full spull at 4300. That is shit. Kind of like u
there’s nothing wrong with eagle rods!!! I know people that are using them and they are putting down over 600hp with them. nothing wrong with using them at all as long as you don’t go any higher than I think 650hp or something like that witch I don’t know what your power goals are.
I’ve seen threads of the rods giving but that is usually with over the recommended power that it can handle. but that’s any rod. if you have any doubt’s don’t waste your money on crower. go and get Pauter rods!!
My friend has one on his built b16. Full spull at 4300. That is shit. Kind of like u
sc61s arent that bad depending on what manifold you’re using… i have a friend with a turbo ls runnin a sc61 and it spools up before 4k rpms…
anyways, it sounds like a nice setup… intercooler piping is over kill with the little boost you’re gonna be running. With that motor build, id think youd be running around 30psi… id like to know what manifold you’re gonna run tho… i do highly recommend the Full Race manifolds especially since you want to do a equal length… and one last thing… LSD
I am going to run 2.5" intercooler I changed my mind I know i could push more out of it but I want something that will last a while so i’m going kinda conservative. I am going to do an LSD just after I get the motor built. It won’t be raced for a while cause I’m going to break it in for a while. but yes LSD is in the works along with some other stuff not motor related (some of which will be done in the 2 following day of the motor) unfortunatly i’m looking at about mid may before motor is built and in car and fully tuned I will post pics and dyno sheets if any one has an predictions of hp i would like to see what people think. Yes I know it’s a lot of money but yes I do have cash for it. I dunno what manifold i’m going to run I think for now I am going to just do a basic not equal length and then sell it a little later and guy a full race equal length due to the face that the motor right now is at the very tops of my budget for it right now
I apologize for not reading your entire thread but I think you’ve got a nice build going on. The only thing I woud suggest is creating a whp goal instead of a PSI goal. Set a realistic whp goal and see what your options are (turbowise) for getting there. With the amount of money your forking out, I would suggestion a BB turbo. I personally think a sc61 is a bit big depending on the A/R that you get. I would recomend a BB 60-1 from Turbonetics. Its the only turbocharger on the market that will give you a one year warranty regaurdless how bad you ruin it.
I do have an Hp goal of 400+ however I wanted to be safe with the build. If I didn’t quite hit 400 but saved the block by keeping the PSI down a little it’s ok. So it’s kinda a dual goal thing that is just what the shop i am having do it said I could run safely on pump/race gas and should get my goal.
cylinder pressure does not make the stock sleeves fail. As long as your tuner is on the ball, you should easily be able to hit over 400whp on stock sleeves.