Update with a 2nd gear pull, dont worry no street racing mods you can calm down.\
Updated with some random pics to show how its fits, how cable shifter was mounted and a bunch of other crap.
Update with a 2nd gear pull, dont worry no street racing mods you can calm down.\
Updated with some random pics to show how its fits, how cable shifter was mounted and a bunch of other crap.
pics vids? i wanna seeeee!! lol
my cousin did the same thing, but he did it b4 they balanced everything and its fine sofar…let me know how the h22 runs maybe get a video if possible
did you do a write up on this swap if not lets here some of it lets see some:pixstfu: j/k but seriously lets see some pics plz
Yeah as far as the pulley goes I’m going to get some dremel action tomorrow and try and get it off. I used the mounts from Explicit speed, will get some pics tomorrow I guess didn’t know it was such a big deal :hi5:
I was kinda surprised I got all the vacuum lines right, that was the most confusing part!
any problem with the mounts? was it easy to drop in?
i was so close to doing this swap lol…i had the motor, most of the extra parts, and explicitspeedperformance mounts (which took 2 months to get), but decided to stay B-series…keep us updated!
The mounts were about 1/4 or less off so had to make both side bolts kinda like spears on the tips so they would get in the mounts. Was a pain in the arse doing the back mount, getting the holes lined up. I’m not gonna lie, it was pretty frustrating at times, but it works. Axles line up nicely. you need to tilt the motor tranny side way low and its very awkward to fit in the engine bay. It doesn’t just DROP in, you have to tilt the thing like a damn contortionist. If I were to do it again I would…
A- cut off Pwrstr part of crank pulley while its out of engine bay, that would make it alot easier to fit in the engine.
B- make sure you get everything you need before you need it
C- probably more things I don’t remember.
Just doing those 2 things would have saved me ALOT of time. I’m working on getting a couple pictures now, I have them on my phone and am trying to get them off which is proving to be quite the challenge.
BTW the mounts being off could have had to do with an error of mine, Explicitspeed guarantees their craftsmanship 100%. BTW I am in no way affiliated or have anything to do with them, I’m just a customer :P.
very hot.
what mounts and parts
what did u need to do the swap and let me kno wat u could do with it pics and vids how much did u spend and wat custom parts did u use and ecu,hARness let me kno
Ill get better pics plus all custom work needed when I get back.
Nice job man, keep us updated and post what you did for sure
Wow this sucks, its snowing and VERY cold, not finishing up today. This is one reason it sucks to live in Washington :shrug: and all thats between it and the road is installing the shift linkage plus getting a custom fuel line. I wish I had a shop bay or something.
I started it again and it idles perfect, revs fine, oil pressure is fine, everything is good except I haven’t filled the coolant all the way only like 80%. I figured it wouldn’t hurt starting it for like 10 secs without 100$ coolant. I’m guessing thats why the engine light is on. Also maybe because of some vacuum lines not used. Or could it be something else, to be safe I’m not starting it again until I double check everything.
nice, cant wait to hear about how it runs
thats just strait sex. :hump: the body of the DA and the heart of the ludda:drool:
what is that other car in the background?
89 4ws converted lude, also converted it to a 91 body style and restored the interior to 2 toned black/camel. Was my car until I sold it to my brother, still gotta get it painted and stuff. The problem was it wasnt fast enough, hopefully this teg will fix that problem !
Well tested alt and its bad, could that be throwing my engine light or would that throw my battery light?
No code blinking on the ECU but engine light is staying on, is there a different thing you have to do to check the code on these engines? On my b18 with original ECU it blinked a code when a light came on. Maybe it has to do with no O2 sensor/knock sensor and that stuff that wasn’t hooked up (not needed). Or maybe insufficient back pressure because I have only the header. IDK but I’m stumped.