hello guys this is my DA lotsof workin being done

yo guys did some

look i’m so Ballin with my chrome saftey glasses haha

well i just had to do what that dude did witht he whole RSX rear ,but i didn’t go all the way down tot he bumper like he did ,I just brought it down to the bottom lne .Looks so much better now and seems to flow better :rockon:


so i was having issues with a nasty gap on the passenger side . I spent an hour trying to fix it with no luck ,i thought it kept going back when id tighten it down . Well i fell on my hatch a while back ,didn’t break the glass but i guess i twisted it a bit .lol I got my ass inside and yup everywhere was flush and the one side i could see outside …

i thought for sure i was going to smash the glass with the amount of force i was useing ,but nope :slight_smile:


allmost looks like it has a trunk and not a hatch

ive since grinded all around the hatch and will be adding a little lip to make it more rigid

oh and i incloused the dirvers light alot .forgot to take a pic (shrugs) tomorow i guess .

Ei Dude, I noticed that you’re painting in the dead of winter. Doesn’t the sub-freezing temps affect the quality of the paint? What do you do (change in process, mixture, etc.) to work around these constraints? I’ve put off some painting-related stuff on my daily-driven DA till late spring or summer since the Toronto winter caught up with me.

the cold weather doesnt effect the quality of the paint, it just takes a lot longer to dry! Its a lot easier to run the paint as well because it takes longer to dry! he probably has a heater in there! BEsides i dont know too many people that wear wife beaters in that weather without a heater!

torralba

nope .not really ,i have a wood stove and electric heat ,with the wood stove alone i can get it up to 90’’ degrees in here and i mostly use the electric for bodywork to speed things up a bit …if anything its that damn dust that messes with my paintjobs …it doesn’t matter what i do ,how clean i get it ,there is allways dust in the clear ,little specs here and there …pain in the ass for sure …but wet sadning takes it away …

tegra1027

haha and shorts:P ,but i wear wife beaters all year round ,in and outside ,i’m a thick dude and the cold doesn’t really bother me to much.

i see the area for your rear bumper brackets have rusted off. Are you going to weld a sheet back on and screw in the brackets? or something else? i have the same issue right now.

Very nice, the “trunk” is looking great.

wow, incredible. Not a fan of after market taillights or anything other than oem on a DA but you made them look good. I loved the gas door idea with the swinging light and I hope you can still manage to incorporate it somehow. Nice work

i think you should make some fender flares

i second that, i saw a thread that some kid did that with jetta flares. it would look nice molded
http://g2ic.com/forums/showthread.php?t=173580&highlight=jetta+flares

First off, I’ll give you credit for replacing rusted metal rather than attempting a temporary fix, and for taking on such a large project. You can definitely take pride in that. :salute:

That being said, this isn’t the cleanest metalwork I’ve seen. I’m not saying it’s bad, just that there’s room for improvement. I’d suggest investing in some shielding gas, if you haven’t already. Forgive me if I’m wrong, but those welds look like flux core to me (which isn’t true mig, by the way). Flux-core is fine, but shielding your arc will allow you to push less heat into the panel, thereby reducing warpage. Your welds will be cleaner too, which means less grinding (keep in mind that grinding also introduces heat into the work). I’d also suggest being a little more conservative when applying filler. Less filler means less sanding to smooth it out.

I’m not crazy about the tails, the flames (not so much the concept of flames, just the execution; the flow and proportion of them need work, but I do like the flake), or the Neon patch panels, but it is your car to do with as you please, so I’ll reserve judgement until I see the finished product.

I think you’re coming along nicely in the technical aspects. So keep practicing. :up:

And I may have missed it, but please tell me you’re using a proper respirator for sanding! Also, I believe a fresh-air supply is recommended for working with catalyzed paints (read the MSDS label to be sure).

Be safe.

Haters can suck nuts dude…

I think you are doing great! You are a true inspiration!
Mod your ride for you. Haters don’t know what they want. There will always be a hater who doesn’t like you or what you do. And they always like to hear the sound of their own voice, and call you out in front of everyone to make them feel big, like a coward. If you always try to please haters, you will never be happy, and you will become one. Do what pleases you, because it pleases you.

Haters can suck nuts …

ditto…and get some lowoffset wheels too:clap:

[QUOTE=Greenbling;1815860]Haters can suck nuts dude…

I think you are doing great! You are a true inspiration!
Mod your ride for you. Haters don’t know what they want. There will always be a hater who doesn’t like you or what you do. And they always like to hear the sound of their own voice, and call you out in front of everyone to make them feel big, like a coward. If you always try to please haters, you will never be happy, and you will become one. Do what pleases you, because it pleases you.

Haters can suck nuts …[/QUOTE]

That’s a good way to look at it. So if your job involves working with hazardous materials and your supervisor/boss tells you to use proper protective equipment, that must make him a hater… right?

If you’re doing your job to the minimum of your potential and someone gives you some tips to help you be more efficient/put out better quality, he’s a hater as well right?

I think you need to pull your head out of your ass and start sucking your own nuts

[QUOTE=davidhtam;1816044]That’s a good way to look at it. So if your job involves working with hazardous materials and your supervisor/boss tells you to use proper protective equipment, that must make him a hater… right?

If you’re doing your job to the minimum of your potential and someone gives you some tips to help you be more efficient/put out better quality, he’s a hater as well right?

I think you need to pull your head out of your ass and start sucking your own nuts[/QUOTE]

Hey. You’re not too bad, for a canuck. :wink: :up:

Care to point out exactly where I said I didn’t like the guy or what he was doing?

its looking good man damn its gonna be badsas

cool mods

GoGreen
haha well i know my metal work isnt the cleanest , i can get it cleaner and have then what you guys see ,its justt hat i don’t post every single pic i take or i don’t take them . But i never did say that i was a master at metal work .I havent been doing it very long and this is my first time doing a tailight conversion and i think its turning out great .

as for the neon front fenders in the rear.I didn’t have the intentions of doing all this at the time ,i sandblated the rust out and patched to drive untill i pulled the engine and harness to Bseries my crx ,but they turned out great as well . there not stock ,but who cares i have more flare then stock DA’s and it flows with the front now… at least i think so lol

i did all my welding with fluxcored on my crx and it turned out fine .but with this car i’m useing auto-weld sheilding gas and .025 wire,i’m not sure whats up witht he carbon marks lately maybe i havent been cleaning the area enough before i weld … not really a big deal though since i get good penatration
here is a pic of my first project i did once i got the welder .welder stand with file holders ,wire brush holders ,gun holster ,tank holder ,grinder holder ,grinding disc/misc holder ,i painted this one with white base and did a type of a fade with blue then after this pic i shot it with 3 coats of clear

as for my filling work . this is how ive allways done it .never had an issue with it so i’m not goingt o change ! everyone does it different 90% gets sanded off and there is less going back a and filling again , ive noticed anyways .

i can do flames any way ,and for this car i wanted them like this .not little skinny ones tribal oldschool or anyhting like that . i do what i do to be different ,not to have flames or whatever like everyone else …its kinda funny how you say the flow and proportion of them doesnt work when there flames and no flame is the same to begin with "there flames " lol just wait untill i dot he roof and end on the hatch …

i have respirator for sanding and for painting .pretty much everything i need to get the job done …well allmost i need a few things but i work with what i have

here is some pics of what ive done
my crx hand made panels on the bottom half down ,shaved rain/window trim

prelude for a bud 1/4 panel rust repair and full color change

1987 civic hatchback trailor

rear strut tower brace

ajustable panhard bar for my crx

drill press stand then i added spider webs and changed the legs to ajustable ones

bench grinder stand

battery trays for the 1st and 3rd gen crx and civic ,with this try you can fit the oddesy betteries, i allso made a few that lower the battery into the bay near the tranny

harness bars

various carbhats for the 1st and 3rd gen civic/crx ,ive sold these and some are in cali ,kentucky ,calgary …

ive allso made an intake manifold for when i have bike carbs on my crx ,did custom work on a few nissan harbody trucks and a few fords made a mugen knock off spoiler for my crx ,few sub boxes

so i can’t be that bad for a dude with no schooling on how to do this and have people asking me for work on a regualr basis …if i sucked they wouldn’t come to me …

thanks for your input

that trailer made me LOL

Like I said, you’re off to a great start. I was merely identifying a few areas where you could improve, and thought I’d offer some advice. It’s great that you’re having fun at it, and making some extra money to boot.

As for the flames, yes, each individual one should be a different size and shape, so I wasn’t suggesting that each one be identical. But, flow and proportion is what separates excellent flames from adequate ones. That includes the size and shape of the flames, how the sizes and shapes are varied, the smoothness of the curves, as well as how the overal look flows with the body lines of the car. I don’t think yours are quite there yet.