help i cant fuel!!! car wont start

i did the b16 swap awihle ago and i used all the stock injectors and fuel rail of my 93 and it worked fine before but now my car wont start with the b16, i have spark on all 4 cylinders but no fuel goin into engine. i have fuel pressure into the rail cause we took the ijectors out and held them in the fuel rail and they popped off when car was cranked. why wont injectors spray please please help and research car has been sitting for 2 months now while i was at school and cant afford to have it sit anymore!
thank you

oh its a 93 ls-s, what we possibly think is main fuel relay (how much is this) or 4 injectors goin dead at once? where should i test the wires for current to see if i am gettin power to injectors please help

ttt

I’d check the main fuel relay. The haynes (yes, haynes, not helms) has a good page on how to test your pgm-fi relay to see if its still good. They usually run around $50 to replace, but test it first before replacing. Also check to make sure the fuel pump is turning on by listening to the gas tank or fill area when you first turn the key, the pump should run for a couple seconds when the ignition is first turned on. If the pump is running, but the injectors aren’t, then you’ll have to check the injectors themselves and the resistor pack for them. The haynes I think has a section for that, and the helms probably as well (helms are invaluable, so I’d get one asap if you can). Good luck.

hey, i have a similar problem. just finished my ls/vtec into my 91 ls. i know i have fuel pressure at the fuel filter, spark, and no fuel into cylinders (as far as i can tell). using 95 gsr fuel rail, with my stock injectors. could they be bad, or clogged ya think? i have a chilton’s manual, i’ll have to see if it has a pic of that main relay. where is that thing located???

bryan

If you have fuel pressure, I don’t think the main relay would be causing the problem, the main relay (pgm-fi relay) primarily controls the fuel pump, not the injectors. Check to see if your injectors are clicking when cranking using an automotive stethoscope. If they aren’t (listen carefully, they can be hard to hear over the cranking noise), then start checking the injector electrical system, if they are clicking, then it’s probably something clogging them or some other part of the fuel system. Good luck

fuel pressure and spark, but no injector spray…
check for connections at ecu
try different ecu
check the injector resistor box, and connections there.

I hope that I, or anybody can help you solve the problem, i hate hearing that ur teg has been sitting for 2 months, so sad :frowning:
love the g2’s
-Toby

thank you for all the good ideas, how do i check the relay? i have a friend who is bringin some extra injectors to test them and i have fuel pressure and i hear the clicking but still nothin, and how could the injector wiring be damaged didnt open up the harness at all just hooked it up? i am tryin lots of things and running out of ideas i guess i will try a different ecu on it and hope…thank you keep the ideas comin

hey thanks for the info guys! i’ll try that stuff this tomorrow, when i get home. i was originally going to use the gsr injectors i got, but they wont plug in to the LS injector harnesses. :frowning: i was thinking of just snipping off the ends of my LS harness, then use female spade connectors to connect the new injectors…???any thoughts?-ie, would this work???
my buddy also said that i might have to bleed the fuel system, that there might be air in it???any ideas?

thanks guys!!!
bryan

mmmmkay…i looked at it tonight, there is fuel going into the rail, injectors, and cylinders. it fired like for a second, but not enough to actually start. i beleive there is a drop in fuel pressure right after i turn the key past the “on” position. “on” position lets the fuel pump run for two seconds (which you can hear), then i try to start it, and it almost fires. she wants to start. i popped off the fuel return line and put the end in a catch can, i get fuel when key is “on”, and fuel when she cranks. i will go to acura tommorow and talk to my guy there. i think it might be something to do with my fuel pump.???
any ideas???

bryan

Don’t mess with the fuel pump; if it ever turns on, it is fine. I had about the same problem as you, thinking for sure it was a fuel problem, but it was the ignition coil. Get yourself a DMM and check the resistances on the coil, or just take it in to AutoZone and have them check it. If it is out of spec at all, it needs to be replaced. They like to overheat.

Originally posted by GStRing92
Don’t mess with the fuel pump; if it ever turns on, it is fine. I had about the same problem as you, thinking for sure it was a fuel problem, but it was the ignition coil. Get yourself a DMM and check the resistances on the coil, or just take it in to AutoZone and have them check it. If it is out of spec at all, it needs to be replaced. They like to overheat.

wow ditto. i just had mine replaced the other day. i was sure it was the pump too, since i couldnt hear it hiss when i turned the key to ON. car runs much better now too

but we are not having problem with spark it is purely just fuel? how can this relate to the coil. what about a injector resistor?
im tryin but no luck yet still cranks with spark but no fuel.

Originally posted by i1justin
but we are not having problem with spark it is purely just fuel? how can this relate to the coil. what about a injector resistor?
im tryin but no luck yet still cranks with spark but no fuel.

The first thing I did was check for spark. I had spark at the plug, so I mistakenly ruled out spark as my problem. It could easily be that you don’t have enough spark to get it started. CHECK YOUR COIL. It is free to just test the two resistances, I can post them here if need be. I was dead set on a fuel problem too, but unless you know for a fact there is a drop in fuel pressure, it’s likely not your problem.

i am having the same problems still. i too have nearly ruled it down to my injectors not working. i know i have spark at the plug, but i dont know if it is enough…no drop in fuel pressure, 48 psi when cranking. definately have air. i am going to check the injector relay, if i can figure out where it is, and what it looks like.
also tried the ignitor, and that seems to be good too.
any other ideas???

bryan

Easiest way to check injectors is to use an automotive stethoscope (usually between 5-10 bucks at most auto stores) and listen to the injectors while cranking. If none of the injectors make a clicking noise, then they’re either all bad or something is wrong with the resistor or another part of the electrical system for the injectors. If any of them click (listen carefully, it can be kinda hard to hear them over the cranking of the engine, even with the stethoscope), then the electrical system for them is almost certainly working ok, and possibly some of the injectors are bad or clogged. Good luck

BTW, this is the second set of injectors that i’ve tried. first set was my original LS set that i am positive ran 5 months ago when the car did. this set is from a 95 gsr. what are the chances i could have two completely bad sets of injectors?

Ok, that’s pretty unlikely that both sets were bad, but it’s still a possibilty. Couldn’t hurt to check them for clicking first, since it doesn’t require removing anything, before tearing into the resistor, etc. Best of luck! sounds like a rather annoying problem!

cool , good idea . i’ll try that. where is this resistor located. i also heard of an injector relay somewhere too, could that be bad???
how do i test my coil, i am running a brand new MSD external coil. maybe i have it hooked up to the dist. wrong. i doubt it though. i really think it has something to do with those injectors not squirtin…

bryan

The resistor is located in the upper right section of the engine compartment as you are facing the engine from the front. It looks like a big heat sink (it is actually :slight_smile: ) There are a couple large connectors near it.

Easiest way to test the coil is to check for spark, just use a spark tester (usually around 5-7 bucks at auto stores). Hook up the spark tester between a plug wire and ground, and crank the engine. If there’s spark then your ignition/coil, etc are all basically good.

I was just flipping through my helms, and do you have a check engine light on? I think most problems with the injectors/resistor will trigger a CEL. You might want to get at least a haynes, and preferably a helms manual, they’re very helpful in troubleshooting problems like this.