Help me shave my engine bay item by item - Shaved bayers input needed - 56K NO

Ok, I have been cleaning my engine bay up alot lately, tring to get rid of a few more things, I am stuck on ideas where to put/run some of this stuff.

I will be getting pictures of everything that I want to get rid of in the engine bay, what I am looking for is ideas/input on where to relocate this stuff.


Up first: Injector box and harnesses beside the injector box.

(this is not my engine, picture is from the engine bay thread)

What’s everyone doing with the few things circled? The more indetail the better…


Up next: details on how to hide clutch cable

just curious, what year and model is your integra?

impedance box: mount to intake manifold. you may have to unwrap some of the electrical tape and re wrap it for the wires to reach. no extending of wires needed.

clutch cable: disconnect from transmission, remove holders from valve cover, reroute clutch cable under intake manifold, reconnect to transmission.

map sensor and purge solenoids: buy 94 ls intake manifold and throttle body, remove 90-93 intake manifold, throttle body, map sensor, and purge solenoids. extend map sensor wires to reach map sensor on 94 thottle body. install 94 intake manifold and throttle body.

engine harness connectors: unscrew any brackets holding them to shock towers, tuck down a bit.

injector harness: unscrew the black plastic thing from the fuel rail, now remove the black plastic thing from the injector harness. disconnect the engine harness on the driverside, unplug the injectors and any connectors needed to bring the injector part of the engine harness under the intake manifold. now run the injector plugs up in between the intake runners. plug in anything else you disconnected.

engine bay fusebox: disconnect all connectors from fusebox and unscrew from shocktower, unwrap the grommet where the connectors for the fusebox come thru the firewall, cut a slit in the grommet to allow the fusebox connectors thru the grommet. send all connectors for the fusebox thru the firewall. rewrap the grommet to the harness, silicone the slit back together. hook all of the connectors back up to the fusebox, and zip tie the fusebox above the lower dash panel.

I got a 90 LS 5 Speed I am doing this too.

Damn thanks for all the information. Very helpful. I am going to look at all this stuff tonight.

Here is a pic of the actual bay I am working on…

imo get rid of all that cheesy silver hose/wire cover stuff…then…

-keep fuse box black
-keep rad fan black
-keep wipers black (semi-flat looks best imo)
-keep radiator brackets black (or use custom aluminum parts if you really want the silver look…)
-relocated battery to trunk or get a smaller battery and put in more discrete place in engine bay
-samco or new oem rad hoses
-new oem vacuum hoses
-oem oil cap
-oem dipstick
-if you can deal w/o powersteering…remove it

As for the injector resistor box, your best bet is to switch to obd1 style injectors since they don’t need the resistor box. That way you can remove the box altogether instead of trying to find somewhere ghetto to hide it.

Just my .02

Paint the valve cover, leave it alone or all polished?

The radiator brackets are polished, they look like chrome.

All hoses have covers, thinking of removing them… any more opinions on them?

Wipers will be painted shortly.

PS, I don’t think I can go back to another car without it.

Would a wooden box work for a battery box? I have a wooden battery box that was covered in vinyl and has a CF top that is removeable.

Anyone know what the harness is for that clips right in front of the passenger’s side strut tower (between intake and strut tower)?

either paint the valve cover with wrinkle paint or polish all of it. keeping part of it polished looks like u got lazy.

radiator brackets are ugly, in pictures it is hard to see crome on stamped metal pieces. i would pickup some aftermarket ones.

definately remove them. black hoses and couplers look much better.

wooden battery box? no, no, no… not safe. i would just buy a smaller battery and mount it to the side of the frame rail just under where the oem battery sits. looks really clean and hardly noticable.

engine harness? pix?

KraZEtEggIE- are you sure all of the wires that run into the engine bay fusebox are long enough to run into the cab of the car? I have wanted to do this for awhile, but am weery about extending them? also, where is the hole you fed the wires through?

Josh

funny thing is you feed them back thru the hole that they come thru from the factory. you will actually have more wire, but i believe you have to rewrap the group of wires in electrical tape. no extending wires needed except maybe the 8 gauge wires.

Ok, becasue i was going to atttempt this tonight, but i have no wire to extend, so i probably shoudl nto start it until i have waire to extend the 8 gauge ones.

Josh

So feed the wires for the fuse box through the rubber plug right under the wiper motor that the main wiring harness runs through, I started on some stuff last night, but didn’t get too far because ran out of time. I am almost positive the one 8 ga. line running from the battery (in stock location) to the fuse box will need extended. Sound correct?

I found a place to mount the purge valve in back of the intake manifold, just got to weld together a bracket for it to bolt onto. Bad thing is I will have to extend the wiring to make it fit.

I will post pics as I get the stuff done, it may take me a bit because I don’t have alot of time during the week to work on the Teg.

The picture posted is really old, I already started to clean some stuff and remove some stuff… So far I removed the cruise, relocated the overflow tank under the bumper and a few other things.

Is there anything you can use on the actual engine block to make the metal look like new? I already tried simple green, gunk and a pressure washer.

What do you think would look better an all anodized red valve cover or the classic wrinkle red? Voice your opinions.

To add my $.02, I think it looks sweet the way it is. The valve cover is sweet and the steel braided hoses and wire covers are nice bits, too. I understand about wanting to keep the engine bay as clean as possible but I think it looks good like it is. I have a lot of mods done to mine and I could only WISH my engine bay looked that good…of course I have a leaky end cap I’m too lazy to fix so I have an oily engine but I think yours looks sweet. re-route some things and leave the rest alone. Nice motor.

Thanks for the comment, I am deff doing some tucking. The scheme of the valve cover and hose covers are still up for debate. I’ve had this Integra since 98’ I need to change stuff up every once in a while or I get tired of it…

Plus, I am cleaning the bay out so I have room to put the turbo on the car, just waiting till I buy a house so I have more $$$ free to spend (next year).

I am going to be mounting the radiator fans on the oposite side of the radiator (under bumper). I have 1 8 in electric pusher/puller fan, I am looking for 1 more so I can have 2 fans.

Where can I get the best deal on a 8in pusher/puller fan?

ive been wanting to do this kind of stuff for a long time. Def watch this.

i most of it doesnt seem that hard, i am just weary of putting the battery in the trunk and extending some of the wires.

sounds right. my battery was relocated to the trunk so all i had was a distribution block on the pass side kick panel. i haven’t touched a g2 bay in years now, so everything is off the top of my head.

i think this is where i tell you, “hey check out our sponsors.” xenocron should have them in stock if im not mistaken.

bump…
some pics of the progress would be helpfull.
i’m going to attempt some of this… and it should be a little eaiser for me… because my engine is out of the bay.

Ok, I got all my wires seperated and ready to get into the cabin through the plug right under the wiper motor, the plug that the wires originate from. How the hell do I get the wires back into the cabin, what needs removed to get to the back of the plug hole? Whats the easiest way to feed them in?

I’m assuming that you have to pull on the harness on the inside and feed the connectors through the slit. I looked at a GS-R harness today and it looks like most of the plugs are diffrent lengths… so feeding them through 1 at a time shouldn’t be too hard if you have someone to help. Though I haven’t looked under the dash as yet.

no more giving shit away. i told you what to put where… i cant do the pushin for ya(unless you pay me). =) figure it out for yourself and have some fun while ur at it.

KraZEtEggIE - You gonna drive from CT to PA, I’ll pay yah, It should only take like 10 mins to get here right? :shrug: LOL

Well I got all the wires through, what a bitch. Removed the blower motor and had pretty much clear access through the plug, I also had to cut the rubber deadening material. I had to cut one of the connectors to get it through because it was too big to fit through the hole with all the other wires, but I am just going to solder it back on.

I am going to be working on the engine bay all weekend, I also have to paint my wing this weekend to get ready for a show next weekend.

Sorry if I ask too many questions, wiring is something I always hated to mess with and want to make sure I am going about stuff the correct way.

:hi5: Props to everyone’s help thus far!

What type of battery can I get that smaller and I can make it mount onto the lower frame rail?