i was just messin around. there really isn’t anything else that can be said for relocating the fusebox. i’ll be in lock haven this weekend, guess ur a bit further south tho. smallest battery you will find is this… http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=695215
do you have any current pix of the outside of your car? you had bw kit and wing right? i have both still sitting in my garage from when i had a g2.
Well I went alot more crazy than expected…
I am doing a full wire tuck, I spent the ENTIRE weekend re-routing everything, extending and sortening wires and hiding stuff, all I have left to do is hide the purge valves, injector box/wiring and a few other little things. I prob could have had this done by now, but I am really taking my time on this project to make sure everything is right and to make sure I have no wirng problems down the road. I didn’t even get to spray my wing like I wanted. Pics should be up by next weekend of the finished product. I am very pleased with results so far.
Am I OK getting rid of the charcoal canister and plugging the lines?
Anyone that wants to do this better have alot of patience and alot of time on their hand.
Not quite sure where Lock Haven is, is it in PA?? The fusebox is a done deal, it wasn’t bad after I got the first wire into the cabin.
I am throwing the OEM battery back in till I can get a smaller battery, I am planning to just make a small sheet metal box and mounting it on the frame rail.
Sounds like your thinking of Mike Rose’s old teg with the BW Kit/Wing… he sold that a while back.
here is some REALLY old pics of my car… www.cardomain.com/id/jsperformance
The pics of the car are really old, the car looks completley different. Look for a new full photoshoot here within the month, new wing, new front, all decals removed and much more.
Props with all your assitance, it helped alot! :rockon:
you can get rid of the metal vacum lines on the back of the intake manifold, purge solenoids, dash pot, and charcoal canister all in one shot. the vent going into the charcoal canister from the gas tank i don’t even bother plugging, i only plug the vacum line going into the throttle body.
lock haven is pretty much square in the center of pa, middle of nowhere.
So I can just plug the rest of the purge solenoids lines as well? I have a B16 single purge assembly I was going to use, but if I can just get rid of it, thats 1 less thing to worry bout. I assume you need to keep the sensor that is mounted beside the purge solenoid correct? What do you mean by dashpot?
By the sounds of things you were prob about 1-1.5 hours aways from C-burg, I am in south central PA about 15-20 mins from the MD border.
Can’t wait to get this project done. Thanks again.
yup. purge solenoids you don’t need at all, the sensor next to it is the map sensor. you need to keep the map but you can mount it anywhere. the dashpot is the thing on the throttle body that hangs over the intake manifold, looks like its almost hitting your strut bar.
Thanks, I removed all the purge valve last night and the metal lines, I just got an L brace and mount the Map sensor to a bolt on the manifold where the metal lines went, you can’t see it at all… it looks sooo much cleaner that and the charcoal canister gone. I’m off tommorrow til tuesday so I should be wrapping things up very soon.
Do I just plug the line that comes off the fuel regulator as well?
I took off the dash pod once before and it gave me an irratic idle (up and down, up and down), any ideas what would cause that? I ended up putting it back on.
you sure it wasnt the thing next to the dash pot that is on the intake manifold? they look similar. i’m thinking that maybe you forgot to plug the vacum line that was goin to the dashpot? no idea what else would cause the idle to surge. fuel regulator needs to keep a vacum going to it.
lets see some new pix now. =)
So can I just use one of the holes in the back of the intake manifold that was used for the purge solenoids to hook the fuel regulator too? Pics will prob be up on Tuesday when I get back to work. I’ll have to mess around with the dash pod after I get the car running again.
yup, you should have a spare vacum hole for it.
Working on getting a few pics up. I don’t have many but I snapped a few at 6am this morning before work so I could hold good on my word and have pics by tuesday.
Anyways. I have everything done, the car started right up no problems. The only thing I am not sure if it works or not yet is the cooling fan, I left the car run for about 10 mins (right below half on the temp gauge) and the cooling fan never kicked on? What temp should the fan come on? Does the AC fan and cooling fan work from the same ground? I cut the wires out from the A/C fan. I’m gonna play around with it tonight.
Pics in a few…
Pics didn’t come out that great at all, I will get alot better ones once I get the rest of the car together, HOPEFULLY soon, haven’t really drove it since November.
looks good so far.
u need a half size rad and it will make it look a lot better, put the battery in the trunk and get a DC intake
Got a question bro. Where exactly did you put the harness that runs along the shock towers, etc. Everybody says either fenderwell or tuck them down. I have mine sitting in the fenderwell but it doesn’t look too safe. I’m scared of the tire rubbing the wires. Could you post a pic or explain where you tucked it and how? THanks,
Chris
if youre worried about the wires rubbing put them in a loom.
no fender liners?
The pass side harness I ran down the frame rail, then tucked it into the fender well right before the motor/tranny mount, it come out right by the filter for the cold air intake then ran out the front.
The drivers side harness is ran along with the power steering cooling lines (hard metals lines attached to the frame rail) then ran out the front. Couldn’t run the wires the same as the pass side because of belts/crank pulley.
I’m only using about 10% of the oem fender liners because of my huge rims, I cut my fender liners so I am only using the part the covers the intake filter and washer bottle areas/the parts that tucks under the front bumper, the rest of the liners are gone.
I loomed EVERYTHING, wire loom is your best friend when doing this because you need to pull the harnesses apart and run different wires to different sections and such. I was albe to re-use alot of the OEM wire loom, but still ended up buying 2 packs.
Okay, that clears things up a little bit. I do have them wrapped in wire loom. I was just worried about making a turn and the tire rubbing up against them. What did you use to hold the harness up inside the fenderwell. I’m using like 2 clips from the oem harness and pushed them in some existing holes. Thanks for the help.
Chris
I didn’t need any clips or anything how I have it ran, just loom and ziped tied. I notched what wheel well liner I have left to hold the wires in place nicely. I would have to get some pics of the actual area to explain in detail and the area’s already covered back up.
I also used some brackets off my A/C to hold the looms in some areas. Look at the clip that is holding the wires coming off the injectors (should be a green and metal clip), bolted just below the fuel rail on the drivers side, that is what I used looks like. I think I got 2-3 clips off my old A/C stuff.