Help me shave my engine bay item by item - Shaved bayers input needed - 56K NO

take off your power steering and it’ll look even better than it already is!

I MAY take the PS out, but I doubt it, I had 2 cars without PS before, they where a PITA to drive to me. It may happen though, who knows.

Painted the valve cover this weekend. I painted it with the dupli-color red anodizing system/metalcast system w/ 12 coats of clear. It’s like an anozied color of the color of my car, it turned out awesome, pics soon.

Also painted my rad brackets, battery tie-downs, wipes and more semi black.

Back from the dead!

OK, how do I move my brake portioining valve and where would be a good place to put it? How do you modify the lines?

Also would it be OK to use regular hose for the line coming from the brake booster. It is like a pre-bent rubber line right now.

I put this project on the burner for a bit and ready to get back into it. Any pics would be great.

the lines are mild steel with a plastic covering. you CAN NOT use rubber hose. you can run pre-made -3 an ss soft line, or bend cut and flare your own steel hard line. i chose to buy premade oem replacement hardline from autozone, then cut them to size. the side i cut i then reflared with -3 an tube nuts so that i could run bulkheads in my firewall. i am hoping to redo all of the lines with hard stainless line once the car is driving. this is just to get everything going. heres a couple pix…

I need to move my brake portioning valve back about 2 in. anyone have any suggestions on a way to do this without a ton of work?

I’m not a big fan of cutting/flaring high pressure hydralic lines (brake lines). No sense in having the slightest possible leak that will go un-noticed until it’s too late. I only use my flaring tool for running propane or even water lines (residential purpose).

When it comes to having to alter or replace any stock brake lines I goto the parts store and buy the correct jap threaded hardline replacement (with compression fitting ends and couplers already on it). I spend a few more bucks to buy whatever brass couplers or converters I need, then it’s time for the headache of bending the tube. Be patient and be sure not to crimp the tubing (be extra careful if you have to change an already bent piece).

I’m not that big of a fan of using expensive fancy steel braided lines for high pressure either. Granted I have stainless braided brake lines, those are replacing crappy rubber ones and have been arleady machine fit to the connectors.

As far as relocation of the prop valve…I don’t think there is enough line to just move it out of the way some (like how older chevy trucks always like to give you more spaces of line). If it were me then I would by the shortest sections of the jap hard lines (I’m thinking 6-8") and use the brass couplers to lengthen things for you. Does this option seem pheasable?

I’ll have to go to autozone to see what they have avaiable as far as the jap threaded hard lines. I have never worked with these types of lines so I am a noob to these.

I am making a comp-tech style air box/air intake, the portioning valve is in the way of making the air intake arm fit.

I am getting a code 9 and my tach is not working after shortening my distributor wires, all wires were soildered together exactly like they where originally, I did 1 wire at a time so there was no confussion. Think it could have something to do with the wire sheilds being cut and re-connected coming off the distrbutor? HELP. This is the last thing I need to pin point before getting the car on the road.

Any input appreciated.

the pics on the first and second page don’t work for me

Took them down, no longer needed, I will post pics once completed…

Anyways how bout that code 9?

if you can … email mail me with the pics you have of this process … iam just about ready to start myself … i have my engine and trany pulled and i would like to tuck while my rad support is off … did you move any of the wires on the rad support and the ones that run into the fire wall by the clutch master ?

I pulled the harness, and pretty much extended or shortened most of the wires running into the engine bay. I did not take any pics of the process. I will take complete pics once the car is completed and on the road. I did all mine with the engine and transmissions still installed.

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