well, i’m at about 130, on about 3/4 of a tank, what is wrong with my car?
i have recently replaced:
oil filter
fuel filter
plugs
wires (i had aftermarket in, but they like fell apart, so i put my old ones back on, but the old ones have only been on for like 15 miles)
coolant is fine, i have a blown headgasket, but i refill coolant all the time
o2 sensor like 1,000 miles old
i have an oil leak, and have to constantly fill up my oil, like a quart a week, could this result it my horrible gas milage?
The feeler gauges you need will depend on the year of your teg.
If you have a 90-91 teg the clearances will be
.006-.007 inches intake
.007-.008 inches exhaust
If you have a 92-93 teg the clearances will be
.003-.005 inches intake
.006-.008 inches exhaust
There is really no way to check your O2 sensor without putting in a new one. You can unplug it and see if anything changes, but it will throw a CEL.
If your wire is just crimped, that could be your problem too. There is such a small amount of voltage going through that wire that you will need to make sure it is soldered.
I am not sure on the price of just a rotor, I cant remember what it was last time I bought one. Did you make sure to use OEM honda replacement parts for your cap & rotor?? If not you could seriously damage your ignition system. Hondas like honda parts…
Originally posted by B R
[B]I am not sure on the price of just a rotor, I cant remember what it was last time I bought one. Did you make sure to use OEM honda replacement parts for your cap & rotor?? If not you could seriously damage your ignition system. Hondas like honda parts…
Later,
BR [/B]
Also, Honda just changed the design of the cap and rotor so you won’t be able to use a new rotor without a cap. I just bought a cap/rotor set and it came with a consumer notice about this.
I just got a new cap and rotor for my '91 for $25 at the local honda dealership… even though my old one looked fine it has seemed to help w/ gas mileage which was nice
also, what are the clearances on the b16, also .006-.007 intake .007-.008 exhaust?
thanks
and i think im going to pickup a cap/rotor from the dealer, $25 is cheap. i’ve never been to the dealer before, should i call before to see if they have them in stock, or will they have plenty on stock?
x4evawizex - The feeler guages look like a swiss army knife with a bunch of different thickness feelers in it. You flip out the one you need, make your adjustment and move to the next valve.
Also, don’t always bet that they’ll have the cap and rotor in stock. If they’re out however, they should be able to get it the next day.
No, they dont just sell the ones that you will need, but you can get a full set with just about every measurment for under $10 at any auto parts store.
All vtec motors have the same clearance no matter what cams you are using that that is .006-.007 intake and .007-.008 exhaust.
They always have the cap and rotor in stock because it is a normal tune up item that they have to have stocked for their service department.
On rare occasions they will be out of stock, but that is rare and they usually have it within 2 days.
all right, thanks everyone, im cleaning off my spark plugs tonight, they were a little grimey, but nothing out of the norm, but tomorrow im going to go get myself a new cap/rotor, and pick up some gauge feelers
The feeler gauges you need will depend on the year of your teg.
If you have a 90-91 teg the clearances will be
.006-.007 inches intake
.007-.008 inches exhaust
well i did a valve adjustment, but i obviously did somethign wrong… here is what i did… took off valve cover, etc, took off front wheel. lined up the gears to UP, adjusted then intake valves on the 1st cylinder… but i couldnt adjust the exhausts… so i moved the gears until the valve would shake, or rattle, so that i could adjust them. but i think when i moved it so i could adjust them i took the piston off TDC, BUT… it was impossible to adjust them while the gears were at UP, etc.
can you tell me what i should do, i’m going to do it tomorrow, because i have a ton of valve chatter, and i really want to get this thing running smoothly again.
If you look in the teg tips section you will see an article on valve adjustments. I recommend that you read that a few times and then print it out and use that as a reference.
Are you sure that you were adjusting cylinder 1??
Are you sure that you had it on TDC?? Arrows should have been pointing up (level with head)…
Was your crank also at TDC?? White mark on crank pulley should be on mark on timing belt cover.
It sounds like you were doing it right from how you explained it, but without being there to see for myself that is about all the help I can give you.
Good luck and let me know if you need anymore help.
Are you sure that you were adjusting cylinder 1??
Are you sure that you had it on TDC?? Arrows should have been pointing up (level with head)…
The arrows on the cam gears were both pointing up when i did the adjustment, i’ve read teg tips like 3 times now… lol. but my gears say pr3, these are the right gears? (just to make sure the guy who had em before me didnt like monkey with the gears so it wouldnt align at TDC on piston 1)
Was your crank also at TDC?? White mark on crank pulley should be on mark on timing belt cover.
This i didnt check for, the white mark is where the crank “bolt” is, right?
but i couldnt adjust the exhausts… so i moved the gears until the valve would shake, or rattle, so that i could adjust them. but i think when i moved it so i could adjust them i took the piston off TDC, BUT… it was impossible to adjust them while the gears were at UP, etc.
am i doing this correctly? you said i was doing everything correctly, but i want to make sure… when i moved the crank pulley so that i could adjust the exhaust valves, i moved it to the right (the position i had been turning it the whole time)
please get back to me asap, i need to get this done
thansk
…i have another thought, because this is what happens…
when i align the cam gears to UP, the 1st piston and its 4 valves are not wobbling (as to be adjusted), BUT the 4th pistons valves are, so possibly could my gears be messed up, and i would just do everything the opposite? IE use PR3 as UP, and then work from there?
because as it is i can only get the intake valves to line up with the UP mark on the cam gears, and i have to take it off UP to get the exhaust valves to open, but when I do that the intakes don’t rattle.
could this be my problem? HELPPP, my car is sitting outside…
Originally posted by x4evawizex
[B]br, so i need to get a set of 2 feeler wrenches?
also, what are the clearances on the b16, also .006-.007 intake .007-.008 exhaust?
thanks
and i think im going to pickup a cap/rotor from the dealer, $25 is cheap. i’ve never been to the dealer before, should i call before to see if they have them in stock, or will they have plenty on stock?
thanks [/B]
There is a special tool sold that makes valve adjustments on vtec engines alot easier. It is near impossible to get them right without it. I would highly suggest you get this tool before you do it.
what i would do is just use a .oo7 feeler gauge on all the valves that way u dont have to go back and forth
and id determine which cylinder to adjust by looking at the rotor
when u want to turn it just barely crank the engine til its where u want it
id also solder the o2 sensor
