So I’m looking to get my turbo parts bolted on and then take it to a shop for the dyno tune, but my question is would it be safe to drive without it tuned to the shop? It’s gonna be about 30 miles. Also it’s a 91 so how’s the whole OBD0-1 thing gonna work, can I just do the bolt on parts and when I get it to be tuned have the shop convert it to OBD1 too?
Integra C, How much is a tow? Do you have triple A?
Triple A costs around $50 per year (usually cheaper than a single tow), and you get three tows. More if you pay more. So if you are at the track and break down, triple A can get you home.
Remember, if you drive untuned, you risk leaning out way to much and blowing the motor (for the most part at least). I would suggest to tow it to the tuner’s shop.
It can be driven to the tuner, just dont be a moron and go into boost AT ALL. If you cant control your foot, then have it flatbedded. If your basemap is worth a crap, it should run rich anyhow. Limp it there and rape it back.
EDIT: Looks like you dont even have a chipped ECU/basemap yet. DO not drive this car with your turbo stuff on without a chipped ecu/basemap.
[QUOTE=team123luder;2109037]Terrible advice. Even basemaps aren’t meant to be driven on. I wouldn’t recommend driving with the turbo items on.
I learned this at 17 years of age. Blew a B16’s rod right through the block.
No boost no tune…
Remember, reliable, cheap, fast. You can only pick 2[/QUOTE]
Sorry I forgot to mention in my post to keep it at low rpm’s. From personal experience, I can say that most honda basemaps are pretty safe at LOW rpm’s (say under 3000) unless you are running high-lift non-vtec cams with advanced ignition timing. For 30miles it should be okay as long as he’s short shifting and stays out of boost.
For sure, I agree that the best option would be to tow the car and have it tuned.
But as long as he keeps the foot off the gas, monitors EGT’s, minimal boost, short shift, and use good quality fuel the chance of catastrophic detonation is very slim in the short term. To be on the safe side you could even retard your ignition timing by 1 or 2 degrees.
Don’t know much about your setup… but if the motors stock or even slightly built… you can take off the ic pipe that goes to the tb(cold pipe)…put an air filter on the tb…
if your still running stock injectors and stock ecu drive it to the tuning shop like that, if not…put stock injector/ecu on to drive to the shop.
When you get to the shop install your injectors and do your obd1 conversion, put your ic pipe back on.
That’s all if the shop permits you to work on your car while your there, which im pretty sure they’ll let you.
wat turbo are you running … is ur car stock. stock injectors? the car is fine to drive turboed before boost the maps dont really change … so wat that means is dont put the pedal to the metal or dont get on the highway u can deff. make it to a dyno safely…
well, personally i would drive it there, and not go into boost at all then, it’s like ur car isnt even turbo, i would go with what MantisX has to say. limp it there make sure u dont even go into like 1/2 of boost and then giver back…but ALSO having AAA is allways a great thing to have b/c the year membership usually costs less then one tow anyways as Mishimoto was saying
Thanks for all the replies. Yah I’m running on stock internals with only ARP head studs put on.
I may just have my tuner do the install and then tune it right there too since the risk I’d take driving the car there to save a few bucks on the part install doesn’t seem worth it.
this is what i would do. but make sure you route the boost reference/signal for the wastegate to the compressor housing vs the manifold. this will keep the turbo from over spinning (say if you had to “floor it” cause of traffic or such).