its $225 to get the oil burning problem fixed… and id probaly add like another $40 when i do that… get new valve guides (since mine im sure are original) and any other cheap top of head parts i can find that wear out over time… because the mechanic has to pull all that type stuff off to do valve stem seals… so he can throw on brand new for no extra money
Your mechanic is only charging 225 to pull the head? not bad.
he’s not pulling the head… he says he can do it while its on the car… if he wants to change the seals in 3 hours… im all for it (i heard they do it with compress air in the cyls to hold the valves up and stuff… not 100% sure tho)
maybe u can name me some things on the top of the motor i can get cheap that would probaly be worn on a 114k mile motor
You can change the seals with the head in the car; but if you want to do the valve guides the head has to come off. Otherwise it won’t be done right.
what do you mean it wont be done right?..
also whats your opinion on changing valvelocks?.. all i know is advance auto sells them i dont know if they wearout or anything like that…
and as for valvesprings… should i get those changed while valvecover and the stuff is off?
If you want to upgrade, change the springs, if you dont care about upgrades, the leave the springs alone.
i was wondering if stock springs get weak over time or not… because i would like to put aftermarkets on… but i cant afford those… i can afford stock ones though
there is a cooling process needed for the valve guides…it is to do with expansion from heat and shrinking from cold…something like you have to heat up the head so that the seat expands…while you take freezing valve guides and tap them in…I forgot cause I never did it…but it works something like that.
do the guides wear out over time?.. because if they do i can ask the guy about tham… because if he changes them and they messup… he is at fault
Should I even reply to this subject or is my advice ignored these days? :shrug:
People need to make things clear:
Is the whp claimed on a B18a block that’s still a 1.8?
Or is this B18a stroked out to a 1.9 or 2.0?
I have been in many arguments because someone claimed over 200 whp from a Non Vtec b18a or b. Only later to find out it’s not a 1.8 liter motor anymore. Funny how they neglected to mention that until later.
I’ve been a HUGE supporter of Bill Gude and his company for years…still am. I don’t see 220 whp from anything that is below a 2.0 or doesn’t have Vtec. If someone can prove me wrong…do it…please.
what r u doin for 160? im sure if u went with a crazier compression and verrry lumpy cams with side exit header and a crazy chip aswell you’re setup would be good for 200…only 40hp
Originally posted by KraZEtEggIE
what r u doin for 160? im sure if u went with a crazier compression and verrry lumpy cams with side exit header and a crazy chip aswell you’re setup would be good for 200…only 40hp
BesT PoSt EVAR!
“only 40 hp”
Dude. Squeezing 40hp out of an already most likely tweaked engine, is really really difficult.
i still wanna know his setup. side exit header is good hp alone if u tune it.
40 whp is alot…
there’s an article in HCI magazine for a 209 whp b16a motor…
to get that they had to go with ITB’s… go read that article and find out how hard it is to find even a few hp.
higher compression isnt the answer to get more HP. the most important part is the porting on the head… if the head dont flow well, you arent gonna make more power… that 200+ whp b20 on the boards is Richie… and he’s got some major porting done on his head. then you gotta have some crazy cams to add to the equation… good flowing header and ITBs… and lots of tuning. ohh and some bigger injectors cuz to run 200 whp ur gonna need more fuel.
higher compression will help a head thats not flowing as well make more power… but you’ll see more gains by working the head over first…
Omniman (used to work for Skunk2… originator of lsvtec) has a b20 vtec setup with 10.8:1 CR and pushing 229 whp… Hytech Header and AEBS intake manifold.
Engine:
(Stock B18A that came with the car…no Vtec here kids)
Spoon oil cap
AEM cold air
B&M adjustable fuel pressure regulator
B&M fuel pressure guage
Gude throttle body
Gude intake manifold
Gude head w/ Gude cams, springs, retainers, valves, portwork. (11.0:1 compression)
Gude ECU
AEM adjustable cam gears
Kamikaze 4-1 headers (cause they flow more than the DC)
DC 4-1 headers
RS*R exhaust
NGK 8mm sparkplug wires
NGK sparkplugs (1 range colder than stock)
Jacobs ultracoil
The bottom end is bone stock. So are the injectors and the fuel rail.
This is a street driven car that runs on 91 octane gas. If I get pulled over by the guys that “like me so much”, it looks stock enough for me to keep the car. It doesn’t die at stoplights and it idles right. Lumpy, but right. It’s not a stripped down track car… never will be. A “side exit header” is not the answer for this car.
40 WHP more, not just hp, is VERY hard to get from a NON VTEC 1.8 liter. I’m more than positive that a B20 block will allow me to easily push the 200 whp mark, but I don’t have a B20 block. I have yet to build the stock B18 block because there are plans for a B20. Why build a block you don’t plan on using?
I am more than sure I could hit 175 or 180 with my motor and some more work, but to hit 200 or more I would need a bigger block.
Any questions?
2 headers???
and how do you have 11:1 compression with stock block internals???
Originally posted by sucka306
2 headers???
Let’s see here…
Seeing as I have been doing this for 6 years now, I have come to the conclusion that the Kamikaze headers flow a hell of a lot better than the DC headers. Regardless of how they flow, I still need a Carb exempt header to keep from getting Ref tickets…hence the DC headers.
and how do you have 11:1 compression with stock block internals???
It’s called milling the head and having the chambers cc’d. “Headwork”. Lots of it.
yea man, what exactly is cc’ing the chambers? i thought the lower the head’s combustion chamber’s were, the higher the compression? :shrug: true tho, 40whp is alot considering drivetrain loss. if your car was a strip car i see a few places that could be changed and bring you close to… run a ported b20 head with a good valve job, port-matched side exit header, b20 intake manifold, and billet throttle body, a nice 3" tube going straight from the tb to the front bumper, no filter. higher compression, crazy lumpy cams, good valvetrain to rev nice and high. o and with a stand alone and a whole shitload of tuning i even see 200hp possible. there are always things you can improve…ALWAYS!
ps: ls engines use 9:1 compression last i checked, how many cc’s are your combustion chambers?
dude, wtf. i was curious about the setup. i, in no way, intended any sarcasm by my post. i was curious. and with stock head, i dont think (even with a gude setup) that you will have that high compression
and basically, you have a dc that you use daily and a kamikazee for track??? is this right???
wait… dc sports header or dc integra as in jdm type r?