How to remove the transmission linkage roll pin "Bitch Pin"

INFORMATION Articles / Teg Tips
1

I searched this site and didnt see anyone posting this method so I thought I would. My apologies if it is posted somewhere else and I missed it.

http://www.performanceforum.com/wesvann/honda/bitch/bitch.html

In Wes’s method he used a short socket as a “catch” for the pin but I found that technique frustrating and ultimatly useless. Instead of a short socket to “catch”, I used a spindle nut I had kicking around. It grabbed onto the round part of the shift linkage much better than a freakin socket. Once you’re down there, you will know what I mean. The short socket just spins and wobbles with every turn of the C clamp. The axle nut stays put and voila! A few turns, no hammering, no jacks or punches…Once it was out almost all the way I just grabbed it with a good set of vicegrips and wiggled it till it came free.

Thanks to that guy Wes Vann for the basic idea. Hope it helps someone else in the future.

2

:rockon: I could of used this a couple months ago…that pin really is a bitch

3

lol, damn everyone really has that much of a problem with this pin, I use this method all the time. I thought it was what everyone does, lol

4

thank god I found this. Thanks a million. I’ve been trying to force the pin out with different screws and it won’t come out. I think that clip holding it in is still on it. Thanks man.

5

I had to use a 4inch c clamp. My six inch wouldn’t fit.

6

yea that looks like a nice site even if not all the advice is right on… I did mine with a 8mm punch and mini-sledge :frowning:

7

I’ll share my secret will all of you to take this pin out. Use a spare a/c compressor bolt that attaches the compressor to the a/c bracket. The head on that bolt is a 12mm so it give you a nice size head to strike with a hammer and the diameter of the bolt is slightly smaller than the pin so it will pass right through.

8

usually the exhaust bolt that attaches the cat to the header is a perfect fit too. Ive used it on a couple different cars already.

9

i just saw that Harbor Freight has an assorted set of roll pins. im sure no more than $10

10

Why are people so opposed to just using a punch and hammer?

11

I just used an air hammer (sp?) with a punch bit.

2 seconds tops

12

x2! i use dat! and i try to lube it aswell with tranny fluid, oil, wd40 or what ever helps

13

because a lot of punches are too long. If you are not baller (like most of us) and dont have a lift, it is hard to swing a hammer 2 inches with enough force to knock the pin out.

14

lol yeah tell me about it when I did it I was laying on a plywood on the ground with gnarly-looking spiders walking next to my head :uhoh: I did it with a mini-sledge also known as a BFH. The 8mm punch was ok, think it cost about $15 tho. Much harder for me driving the new pin in that tight bitch, er,… I mean, newer tighter bitch pin in because the hole didn’t line up and I didn’t want to hurt her with my BFH :giggle:

15

that kinda reminds me of the scene in Kill Bill 2 where The Bride uses Pai Mei’s techniques to punch her way out of a coffin, and then digs through six feet of dirt.

16

hell yeah. i keep that in my tool box.

17

I always had a hard time until I bought a harbor freight punch set. Now it pops right out. I kick myself for not buying a set years ago

18

you can also just buy the 8mm punch, it’s all you need for the trannie biotch pin. Cost me $9. Nice to use w/ mini sledge a.k.a. BFH

19

Or, unless you absolutely must get that out, just grind the head off the the pin before it, where the linkage swivels. And replace it with a bolt and nut…did that when i replaced my trans, been workin just fine :slight_smile: of course my trans that i bought was taken out the same way lol, so the bitch pin was never touched…

20

spring hammer = 20 seconds.