im planning out my turbo system and i know how they work and what all the parts are but when i comes to picking the parts it new to me since iv never put together a turbo system. Iv read the turbo guide and searched alot on all kinds of sites and now is the time to build. I have a budget up to $5000 right now but get more money every month. Iv found many prefabed kits but want to build piece by piece to ensure quality. Iv looked at the fab-works kit which includes Kit will includes:
Full Tubular Manifold, Garrett T3/T4 57 trim or 60 Trim Turbo .63AR or .48AR, Tial 38mm WG,Precision As1021 Intercooler 2673.5, Tial BoV or Greddy Type RS, Complete oil line kit all stainless no push lock fittings all AN fittings,3″ dp with flex, Intercooler Piping with silicone couplers and T-bolt clamps
Price: 2800 shipped
with this kit AC cant be used and a half sized radiator must also be used. What im not to sure about is how diff turbos perform such as T3-60-1 and the hybrid T3/T4’s for street performance. Also if i need a 3in DP or a 2.5in Dp, a cast or tubular manifold, What to tune with its OBD-0 and i have no clue about chipping and editing Rom’s. What cams since i need to rebuild the head anyway. saw a guy on H-T with 6psi,404’s and 10.5-1 comp and ran a 12.7, didnt think 404’s would be a good turbo cam since it has lots of overlap, maybe its a fluke, i need someting that will lay down power to beat V8’s but still be reliable and not break the bank
hey check my post in the forced induciton section. You can basically piece together your own kit for cheaper. Go to FUll race and copy the list of items that come with their turbo kit. Add in what else your will need and look around and buy from the venders with the best price. I bet you can get just and much and more 4 cheaper that route.
What kind of engine you have determines your turbo choice. You’ll have one hell of a time trying to spool a T-101 where as a Chevy 350 won’t have as hard of a time.
The A/R is pretty much determined for what kind of power band you want. The higher the number, the longer it takes to spool but the longer it holds. If you rev to 8k you’ll usually want a .63. A stock LS can easily get away with a .48 though.
2.5’’ exhaust is a good way to go if you’re looking for around 300hp. I have a friend that has 4’’ exhaust and puts out 600~whp. There is a guy on H-T called “cheesefrog” that has 3.5’’ exhaust and puts down 800~whp… so it just depends.
404’s aren’t a good turbo cam due to their duration/overlap, like you said. They’re probably a hell of a lot better than stock cams though.
Overall, the turbo guide is an excellent read. I only say this because of your asking which BOV to get 
in the fab-works kit you can choose what BOV you want, personally ill take a duck call :naughty: . Anyway its gonna be a stock LS block cant afford to pull the motor. Ill use somesort of free standalone not a AFc since it changes ignition timing as well. I dont know if ill use a T3-60 or a T3/T4 but nothing HUGE like a T76 or T88 
dont think i would even spool them. iv heard on the DA platform that 3 in exhaust maybe it the rear suspension to ill problly use the kteller 2.5in piping and get a 2.5 in DP with a flex.
Haha, yeah gotcha. Just a little worried because typically a functioning BOV is just basically a way to expel air, nothing more. Some of them just make sounds! 
I’m personally going with a T3 60trim .63 A/R for my GSR. I’m running Neptune which is a standalone program for OBD1 and I love it. I don’t know if the 3’’ is too big or not but I could see where it would be a problem through the LCA/underchassis section… especially if you wanted mandrel.
ya the LCA is where im worried about since it snakes its way thru and it will be mandrel. Ill just use 2.5 since itll be a street car. Ill problly use turbo edit since it for OBD-0 and i dont realy feel comfortable converting it to OBD1 myself for Neptune and Uberdata. Also ill need someone to chip a ECU for me and help me with a basemap so i can get it to a tuner thanks for the replies guys
Hey sry to jack the thread but
Where can I find info on Turbo edit, I also dont wanna
convert mine from obd0 to obd1
Thanks you very much,
Goodluck to the thread poster
I think I’m going to convert from obd0 to obd1 cuz I heard that turbo edit isnt as stable as Uberdata
But is convertin it, alot of money?
Thanks, Later
a conversion harness runs less than $100 and then all you would need is a obd1 or obd2a/b dizzy. both obd1 and 2 dizzys are the same, just different plugs(same color/number of wires)
Converting to OBD1 is straight simple.
Conversion harness, running some wires and getting an OBD1 Distributor. The O2 sensor stuff is unneeded if you are going to be running a chipped ECU.
If you need any help with any of this, of course email me and I will do my best to get you what you need or point you in the right direction.