a gsr motor in an RS should theoretically make the RS faster than a true gen two gsr since the RS should weigh less by a few hundred pounds (base rs no options i.e. no ac/locks/abs/pwr windows/sunroof)
I think a gsr motor in the RS would be at least one of the options
since you dont want a swap then port n polish + cams header and tuning
or anything else that icemanGSR said can get ya going
do what you want though!
this is the funniest thing i read in a while…
the topic states “I want my 92RS to run like a GS-R”
lol. im gonna put a gsr mani on my rs. o wait…
maybe ill add itr cams and some synthetic oil to my 12 year old car while im at it. then i can get some real hp along with my gsr mani.
I don’t see what’s so funny. He asked for help, I told him what I have learned from this site as well as other resources. The things I listed are perfect for someone wanting to build up a b-series motor on a budget. Bottom line is he should do what he wants but he wanted info so he got some.
first off, the choice of exhaust piping diameter depends on your hp setup and goals.
secondly, there is no need to upgrade your spark plug wires to anything other than oem or ngk. there are many high hp producing imports that run on stock oem wires. regular ngks spark plugs are fine, no need to run platinum(unless you want a longer change interval) or iridium plugs.
thirdly, header choice, again, is based upon hp goals and engine setup. dc is fine for the general bolt ons. but if he wants more hp, he has to concentrate on primary diameter, length, and collector size.
Just suggestions. That’s why I said to search here. Also Team-integra.net has tons of good articles on this stuff. Check them out too.
yes, but you aren’t taking into account the engine build up factor/goals, and if all the parts are gonna work together in harmony. seeing that you know about the team-integra articles, you would have known that, and not have suggested specific parts(i.e 2.5" exhaust piping, dc header).
also, you mention him upgrading header and exhaust, yet you fail to even bring up the bottle neck of the system, the cat.
If you read what I wrote the 2.5" mandrel piping statement was about a friend who went that route. It shows him a cost alternative. I don’t tell him to go out and buy one. In fact the beginning of that paragraph is “Just for your information . . .”. The header statement was simply a statement of what MOST people think. That is that the DC headers are good for the price. He has to make the decision for himself. He came here lookin for info and he got it. Now his next step is to search and find out more information for himself. Read what I wrote again. It’s all SUGGESTIONS and general information. Just to get him started. Instead of trying to one-up me, why don’t you give him some suggestions.
first off, i’m not trying to “one-up” on you, what ever that means.
i would offer him suggestions, unfortunately, you already told him to go to the team-integra.net articles. so i don’t want to post that twice.
unless you think that i’m not suggesting anything, i can post about team-integra.net articles again since you feel that i’m not helping, which would be pointless.
i’ll post the links to the articles 
team-integra.net articles:
http://www.team-integra.net/sections/articles/listArticles.asp?Show=1
intake info:
http://www.team-integra.net/sections/articles/showArticle.asp?ArticleID=46
exhaust backpressure info:
http://www.team-integra.net/sections/articles/showArticle.asp?ArticleID=355
exhaust design effects on noise:
http://www.team-integra.net/sections/articles/showArticle.asp?ArticleID=309
correcting exhaust bottle neck:
http://www.team-integra.net/sections/articles/showArticle.asp?ArticleID=300
advanced header design:
http://www.team-integra.net/sections/articles/showArticle.asp?ArticleID=50
exhaust basics:
http://www.team-integra.net/sections/articles/showArticle.asp?ArticleID=47
aftermarket cats:
http://www.team-integra.net/sections/articles/showArticle.asp?ArticleID=24
header purchasing guide:
http://www.team-integra.net/sections/articles/showArticle.asp?ArticleID=554
header-exhaust design on power:
http://www.team-integra.net/sections/articles/showArticle.asp?ArticleID=2
exhaust purchasing guide:
http://www.team-integra.net/sections/articles/showArticle.asp?ArticleID=451
Apologies. It just seemed you were more interested in telling me what I am NOT doing instead of what he should. I am sorry that I tried to help a noob. You don’t have to ban me, I’ll just quietly read what people write and keep my comments to myself. I like this site and I don’t want to upset any moderators. Have a good night. :sleep:
no need to apologize.
i am more interested in people explaining the basics of making more hp instead of suggesting parts that may or may not work in their hp goal setup, and why you would get a specific part(i.e why get a 4-2-1 header vs. 4-1 header)
by learning the basic principles first on how to build a better engine with parts that work together, and how each part works, you learn what you should do or not do.
the b17 mani is long runner. the itr wont fit. the b-series heads use 3 differant non-interchangable flanges, the b16/b18c5, b18c1, and non-vtec. the skunk2 is a good choice and itr tb is a good match for it however i see them going for $200-250 normally.
you seem like the type of person who either never installed your cam gears or did and kept them at 0,0. if a bolt breaks in your gears y would you replace the bolt? wouldnt you take the precaution to not buy the same brand? regrinds are not always bad news. just find a good set. they are normally fairly lumpy and well worth your money. again vtec valvetrain wont fit in a non vtec motor. tanabe exhausts are also normally $600+. lets review.
You are the first and only person I’ve heard say that. I have never had a problem with synthetic oil nor have my engines(both b17s) ever “blown smoke” during vtec. Maybe I’m just lucky.
As far as vtec valvetrains in non-vtec engines, you learn someting new every day. 
Turbo route :rockon:
-Custom Exaust manifold $250
-T25 Turbo $100
-custom piping $150
-1G blowoff valve $25
-Mitsubish starion FMIC $100
-all oil crap, vacume lines, ect $100
-Missin link $50
-Apex S-AFC (w/ tune time) $400
-Eclipse 410cc injectors $100
-In tank fuel pump $150
-Exedy street clutch $300 $1725
Then they will have to kiss you ass, if they can catch you.
N/A route
-92-01 B18 cams (w/ gaskets and stuff) $100
-bore intake manifold and throttle body $150
-DC sport header $350
-Tanabe exaust $400
or_
-my spoon exaust (70k on it)(1990 model) $300+ship
-gut cat ----
-modify intake $15
-B17A tranny $500
-exedy street clutch $300
-apex s-afc (w/ dyno time) $400
-self made ground wire kit $20
-Motor tune up
–NGK plug wires $50
–NGK plugs $25
–OE cap and rotor $30 $2355
A fun ride, will hang with a GS-R (assuming equal drivers), but not as fast as turbo. A little more reliable though
yea. dont get me wrong i have seen gsr’s in good condition and bad. ALOT of people haven’t done proper tune-ups and whatnot over the years. if they are taken good care of i would expect one to last just as long an an ls. synthetic blends just seep thru the seals more. you have 2 b17s? i have 1 but not in my car yet.
just to add to this. if you are boosting low psi, you could buy the dsm side-mount and t-25 turbo for 140-150 if you look around. homemade piping should be about 100 tops from jcw. then add the 1st gen bov, ss oil lines, no missing link, safc for 180-200, dsm 450 injectors for 50-60, walbro fuel pump for 100, and dont relpace the clutch. now to replace the missnig link add a eprom burner with a couple chips, and ur good to go. 1000 total. that would be extremely easy to tune also. remember tho this is good for fairly low boost. but great to start out with.
depends on what your budget is , and how many miles and if your current motor is good running condition this is what i did to hang with gsrs when i had ls
-aem cai $200
-dc header 4-2-1 $300
-greddy exhaust $400
-jg 301 cams $150
-jg tbody $150
-aem cam gears $200
-b16 tranny (short gearing ) $300
-act clutch $400
as you can see it was cheap , the cheap way would be a small sqeeze nos kit 40-70 shot
i would personally go with a GSR b18c1 swap
for around the same price you could have more power a newer motor with less miles
If your only goal is to beat a GSR it’s not hard.
That should have you kickin all their asses. If you wanna then take $400-500 and find a b16a tranny you’ll be in the high 14’s. Easily able to run with stock ITR’s, and totally kill a stock gsr.
– IcemanGSR, maybe I read it wrong but did you just tell him to buy Type-R cams for his LS?
Will the Crower 403’s or the JG 301’s need an upgraded valve train??? And what can I do with the SAFC??? I thought it was only for VTEC motors.
it would be smart to get the valvesprings if you get the 403’s, although there are lots of people running em with stock springs, for the $160 or whatever it costs I would definately buy the springs. Retainers are not needed.
The SAFC is for non-vtec’s. the VAFC is for vtec’s. They let you lean out your A/F ratio, using that combined with a FPR (To richen A/F Ratio) you can tune your car.
I tip is to get the VAFC even though you don’t have vtec, the VAFC has 8 points for each cam profile, if you install it on a non-VTEC you can still use all 16 points. So basically for the same price you get 16 tune points instead of 8.
Or,
-modify intake w/ new filter 50
-DC sport header 400
-Tanabe exaust 400
-Catco cat converter 75
-B20Z motorswap 1000
-crower 403 cams 400
Valvesprings are not needed unless you plan on geting the full potential of the cams [(about 7500 rpm’s)(404’s are at around 8000 rpm’s)which the stock B18/B20 non-vtec isn’t going to safely, reliably do this].
if you only want to rev to 7500 keep stock cams. cams will raise your powerband. with 402’s and 403’s i would rev to 8000 and would definately consider dual springs. you need serious head porting to use 404’s to their full potential along with higher compression. you should be abled to rev to around 8400(makin power over 8k), to add to this if you plan no going with 404’s you will want to lighten your rotating assembly up(maybe a crank pully and lightened flywheel) and better induction setup like skunk2 manifold, with an itr or billet tb, and a short-ram intake rather than a cai. this would be a much higher powerband but you would be pulling just as hard as gsr’s at higher rpm.
if you go with 404s i would say get itr or p30 pistons, and deck the head as much as you can safely. have ur head p+p’ed then 5 angle valve job. get a quality valvetrain like crower. then drop the 404’s in. s2 mani, + itr tb. also throw on a dc-style 4-1 header while ur at it. the stock ls exhaust manifold flows like shit. vafc will also help alot with tuning. let me add up a real list for ya.
head-400-500
springs and retainers-200
cams-400
S2 mani-200
itr tb-100
dc-s 4-1 header-150
headgasket and other gaskets u might need-150(shit adds up)
pistons with rings and pins-200-300
yea u will be payin more than u want to but u can piece it together if you want. total-1800-2000
smokin ur friend’s gsr in ur nearly stock ls- priceless.