I just finished doing my swap last week and now my car has idle surge after a running for a few minutes. There are no check engine lights and it surges between 1100 and 1400 RPMs. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
try turning down the throttle screw,
if that doesnt work, you might have a bad IAC valve, or a badly adjusted TPS…
you could also have a vacuum leak somewhere…
does it still surge when it is warmed up?
Check out the teg tips forum. Ben Ogle posted a great write-up on bad idling.Or you can check out my journey on having a bad idle by searching the forums through my SN. A bad idle can be so many things…IACV need adjusting, Intake Manifold bolts not completely tightened, vacuum leak, etc. My problem was the bolts around the IM were not completely tightened down. I did an engine swap and after starting her up, I noticed my idle bouncing from 1500-2500. Ben Ogle’s tips on fixing a bouncing idle is a great start for you to read up on. Good luck.
-E
It could be a loose IM…I hope not because it’s kinda hard to access the lower nuts. If I spray those areas with brake cleaner, wouldn’t the idle drop if there was a vacuum leak? Thanks.
Originally posted by tinkerbell
[B]try turning down the throttle screw,
if that doesnt work, you might have a bad IAC valve, or a badly adjusted TPS…
you could also have a vacuum leak somewhere…
does it still surge when it is warmed up? [/B]
It only surges when it’s warm, but sometimes it goes away. It would idle prefectly normal.
check all the vacuum lines near the back of the IM around the MAP sensor. I had that problem right after my swap and this fixed it. make sure the charcoal canister is hooked up right too. I don’t know if that would affect anything but I also had my wrong.
Originally posted by 8GrandRed
check all the vacuum lines near the back of the IM around the MAP sensor. I had that problem right after my swap and this fixed it. make sure the charcoal canister is hooked up right too. I don’t know if that would affect anything but I also had my wrong.
There are inly 2 vacuums on the back of the IM and both aren’t leaking. Weird part is that it went away for 2 days then came back.
dude if it’s idling that high then you have (maybe) to have some kind of air leak in the intake manifold. just my .02
Originally posted by 8GrandRed
dude if it’s idling that high then you have (maybe) to have some kind of air leak in the intake manifold. just my .02
I was thinking that too…it now seems to idle surge after warmup now. I was looking for a leak on the IM and i can’t find one. Now I’m thinking maybe a bad IAC.
from my understanding… if the idle is surging then you may have some vacuum lines flip-flopped.
Originally posted by 8GrandRed
from my understanding… if the idle is surging then you may have some vacuum lines flip-flopped.
There’s only 3 vacuum lines that are on my IM…
- Fuel regulator
- To the brake booster.
- Emissions control
I sprayed each vacuum to see if there was any idle change and there was none. It sound like something mechanical since it happens only after warmup. i would think EACV but I don’t have one.
you prabably dont want to do this but maybe you should find an IM that you know works that you could borrow or something, and swap that to see if you have, maybe, a bad IM. just some advice
Originally posted by JDeeM
you prabably dont want to do this but maybe you should find an IM that you know works that you could borrow or something, and swap that to see if you have, maybe, a bad IM. just some advice
The IM is fine since it came off my other motor.
Originally posted by lostdeception
It could be a loose IM…I hope not because it’s kinda hard to access the lower nuts. If I spray those areas with brake cleaner, wouldn’t the idle drop if there was a vacuum leak? Thanks.
Actually your idle will increase b/c of the combustive nature of brake cleaner. you can also test the vaccum lines if you are thinking it might be them. you will hear you idle increse a little bit.
how long have you run it after reseting ecu
sometimes ecu just takes a while to learn and the fluctuation will go away…try to reset ecu and DO NOT touch gas pedal after starting car for at least 10 min…then give a week or 2 depending on how much driving you do…if its still there just try turning up idle speed usually stops fluctuations once set to about 1000rpm (use the throttle stop screw not the big brass idle air screw) if that doesn’t work then you have leak/clog somewhere go through the teg tips article (but try reset first as it is by far the easiest)
quote:
Originally posted by lostdeception
The IM is fine since it came off my other motor.
gese, sorry man :(. well, wish you luck on getting it fixed. later
sigh I wrote this >> http://www.g2ic.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=42969 so people woulnt have to have these threads anymore.
Ben
Originally posted by Ben Ogle
[B]sigh I wrote this >> http://www.g2ic.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=42969 so people woulnt have to have these threads anymore.
Ben [/B]
I read your article and tried it and it still didn’t work. I checked all the vacuums and they are all fine as well as all the IM bolts. Could it be possible that my TPS went bad? I know it is something mechanical as it only happens after a decent amount of warmup. Maybe air in my cooling system?
Originally posted by lostdeception
I read your article and tried it and it still didn’t work. I checked all the vacuums and they are all fine as well as all the IM bolts. Could it be possible that my TPS went bad? I know it is something mechanical as it only happens after a decent amount of warmup. Maybe air in my cooling system?
you obviously didnt try all of it. test your TPS.
if the idle thing happens after warm up test the FITV as it is the only mechanical thing that changes with warmup (other than the o2 sensor, check that too). Did you screw in the white thing?
Ben
Originally posted by Ben Ogle
[B]you obviously didnt try all of it. test your TPS.
if the idle thing happens after warm up test the FITV as it is the only mechanical thing that changes with warmup (other than the o2 sensor, check that too). Did you screw in the white thing?
Ben [/B]
I’m running an ITR throttle body and there and that whole piece isn’t there. Where is the FITC located? Will a bad O2 cause idle fluctuation because I did throw an O2 code before the swap but code never came back.