I know i need a ignition switch, since its been cooling off outside its been causing more and more problems.
Can somebody tell me what number and catagory its under on www.acuraoemparts.com ?
I cant seem to find it. I dont plan on changing it right away but i do wanna have it on hand just incase. While i got the money i should buy it.
#9 possibly??
Where are the lifters?
Junk is right, number 9.
this is the exact same thing i had to deal with a few months back. i started a thread in the “stock engine bay…” section a while back. someone pointed me in the right direction and supplied me with THIS part number
35130-SK7-A01
part cost about $55 shipped for me.
i installed this and all my car starting problems have disappeared. and a friendly piece of advice, after you install, reset the ecu. i’m not sure if its necessary, but after installing my switch, the car started kinda “iffy” so to speak and idled terribly low for a bit. but i disconnected the battery and pulled the fuse for the ECU long enough for me to put the bottom of my dash back together (about 5 minutes) and have had no problems since. been about 2 months since i fixed it.
hope that helps 
What have your problems been?
My 90 integra has been acting up with it getting colder.
I’m pretty sure my switch on the side of my auto transmission selector is acting up because sometimes (when the car is cold) the light on the dash doesn’t indicate it’s in park when it is. When that happens I can’t get the key out of the ignition. I took the console off and tried adjusting the position of switch but that didn’t help. I removed the switch and found that there is an iffy spot on the switch when in park where it makes sometimes and sometimes doesn’t. When it’s on the car and I giggle the shifter the dash “D” light will flicker. Found out its $50 from Acura which is 2 hours drive away. i’m trying to find one at a scrap yard.
But, maybe I have ignition switch problems as well. What are your symptons?
I know i need a ignition switch,
Are you sure it is the ign. switch? If so, here’s a few of them… http://search.ebay.com/search/search.dll?cgiurl=http%3A%2F%2Fcgi.ebay.com%2Fws%2F&fkr=1&from=R8&satitle=integra+ignition+switch&category0= what year is your g2, and is it auto or 5 speed?:hmm:94
might be a stupuid question but i guess if u replace the ignition switch u need to some how get a new key??
no you don’t need a new key. your just replacing the harness that connects to the igntion.
no you don’t need a new key.
That would be correct.
your just replacing the harness that connects to the igntion
That would not be entirely correct, you will be replacing the switch, however the switch, [with ign. switch harness attached] is removable, [2 screws] from the ign. switch housing.:whisper: 94
i called a shop to see how much it would be. I own a 90 and it has slowly progressed until now i basically have no ACC position just I and Start. I called a local shop and they quoted me outragous saying they had to get the ENTIRE ignition switch and tumbler (that they were one unit) also do i have to pull the steering wheel to get it off?
You do not need the whole assembly, you do not need to remove the steering wheel.
Remove steering wheel trim, along with lower dash trim.
remove 2 screws holding ign. switch to the ign. switch housing, [at opposite end of housing to where the key goes] it looks like this, [5 speed]… http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/90-91-Acura-Integra-Ignition-Switch-Wiring-5-Speed-OEM_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33692QQihZ001QQitemZ110009120213QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V 94
BTW, the ign. switch is the white round part with the hole in it, [lower right].
this might seem like a newbie question but how the hell do you get the other two clips out of the dash right next to the change tray? i found only one bolt for the metal panel behind it? PLZ HELP!!!
Not sure what you mean by getting the 2 clips out by the change tray, there are 3 screws holding the lower trim on, one of them is in the coin tray housing, once screws are out the panel should just “pop” off, do not pull out on bottom of panel too much as that will bind the the clips that hold to top of the panel.
There are 4 bolts that hold the “Knee Bolster Reinforcement Panel” two on the far left close to each other, and two no the right, a little harder to see.:whisper: 94
i think the clips may have already binded, i took out the three screws and i CANT get the panel off. I know it seems simple but i think i may have screwed something up cuz i was pulling on the panel to look up into the dash. This has been a pain.
:giggle: Sorry, but it’s not you, the lower dash trim can be a real pain, if done the right way the first time it will “pop” right off, the right way is to, [once screws are removed] “release” the bottom, pulling it out just enough to get your fingers under it and hold it, with your other hand, [palm] strike the bottom edge of the panel, swinging from the direction of the brake pedal up and towards steering wheel, giving the bottom edge a solid short snap. The top of the panel will “pop” off.
Oh that’s right it didn’t work that way for you, and if I understand you the right top of panel has popped.
You are correct, the clips are binding, the metal clips themselves have become misaligned on the plastic clip “retainers”, [clip holders that are on the back of the trim panel] the plastic retainers are probably also bent and/or twisted, misaligning both the clip and retainer with the “slot” it is pressed into.
The good news is it may still work if done the right way, snap the top right back in, take notice the direction the clip goes in, [almost parallel with steering column] it give you an idea on what direction to hit the bottom edge at, if it does not pop after one or two tries, give up it’s not going to.:bang:
If still at it, there is a tool you can make from a coat wire hanger, [heavy gauge] that may work, it will be about 6" long, at one of the ends about 1/4" after the bottom straight rod bends up and in, cut it, cut the other end as close to the bend as you can, [within an inch] you should have a 1/4 hook with a long shank, bend the shank to 90 degrees, about in half, the hook and shank should now be about 6" long, now with a set of vice grips and a set of good pliers you can turn the other 6" of shank into a “T” handle, you can now use the hook, [it will probably need to be modified a bit to fit] to “hook” into a hole in the coin tray housing, maybe even drill one in the back that will be covered by the coin tray, make sure you are hooking into something substantial, because your going to give it a quick short jerk, and you don’t want to break something
Some other good news, the plastic clip retainers on Integra lower dash trim are pretty good, I have never broken one.
The bad news, I have had my head stuck up under the dash with lights and long screw divers, [and other tools] popping the clips out that way.
If all the above fails, grab the panel with both hands, as close to clips as possible, and yank hard and quick, again keeping in mind the direction the clips “point”, I have done this more then a few times and been lucky so far.
94
:ohyeah: thanx much, i found that using a flat head screw driver wrapped with duct tape (to protect trim) placed right above each clip causes them to pop right off with ease. Once that was done it was maybe 20 mins, out with the old in with the new:ohyeah: :manual:
anybody know how to tell if the switch is the problem, or if its the steering “lock-out”
When i start my car sometimes, it runs fine in the “Start” position, but when i bring it back to “run” it shuts off. Sometimes when im driving down the road, it’ll just shut off. RPMs go straight to zero (at first i thought i snapped the timing belt). Then i can start it again, and i noticed that when i bring the key back to “Run” that if i jiggle it, it’ll run. if i don’t jiggle it and just “drop” it back to the “run” position, it has a much less chance of running.
But i’ve kept it running in the start position for 20 seconds, dropped it back and it shut right off.
not sure if i should get the switch from Acura, or the whole assembly w/ key from ebay.
Yes it is the ign. switch, just get the switch, replacing the whole thing is a pain.:whisper: 94
i’ve never replaced just the switch…but i get how its done…
ya i just found out the hard way my switch was bad after replacing both ther starter and battery and now i can start my car but like you said i have to jiggle it… are the switches between a auto and stick car the same cause i have an extra from a standard but not one for an auto… thanks… plus i work at o’rielly’s so i get discount 
I believe the switch is the same but the rest of it may be diff., [key cylinder/steering lock housing] 94
