yea its rite there but look how the green wire is really short on the sensor and the red one is longer. then look at the wires he is holding the green wire is longer than the red.
[QUOTE=BLKACK1;2203188]nah thats not it, you can see the IAT right next to it.
Jake, did you confirm that it had to do with the evap system?[/QUOTE]
Haven’t been out to my dad’s to work on it in the last few days. I’m off again on Tuesday, and then next Sunday. So, I’ll be able to put in some work, then. Once I figure out what it goes to, the wire harness will be getting pulled from the motor.
Now, from what I’m gathering, a majority of sites are all saying the same thing. That, its the IAT. So, for whatever reason, it was clipped. Will I be able to use the IAT from the B18A1? or will I have to do the biggest P.I.T.A splice job for the wires, seeing as I have almost nothing to work with on the sensor itself. I guess, if I had to, I could always buy a new IAT.
didn’t even notice that! those wires are definitely for the IAT.
imcnblu you said you were going to re use your stock harness so you shouldn’t have a problem. your b18a sensor will bolt into there no problem.
I was having this conversation with Gaz and he noted that im neglecting the fact its a JDM motor and there are no emissions related equipment 
you shouldnt have to many problems since the connector you need is already on your harness. might have to do a little rerouting of your harness but not a hard project.
It has begun 
anyone have any other pics of their Innovative Cable-to-Hydro conversion kit? the actuator kit, not the full hydraulic conversion. I found a few pics in this thread on H-T:
http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1818108&highlight=innovative+cable+hydro
but its hard to see a few areas. Just curious to see some good close-ups of where each part bolts up, seeing as the kit didn’t come with instructions.
I have a B18C block that I’m gonna rebuild. I haven’t read all your info but plan to soon.
So, I got to work on the car today
Managed to get this much done…
came out without a hitch
DIRTY bay (it’s been about 3 years since I’ve cleaned it, let alone detailed it)
Got the cross-member notched for the 4-1 header, and the old bracket for the front engine mount was cut out, too. Don’t need it anymore 
(no pics of this, sorry)
Next up, tomorrow, will be hitting the bay with some Simple Green (thanks for the idea, DAve) and cleaning the hell out of it. after the bay is cleaned extensively, I’d like to get a mild tuck done, to include the headlight harnesses, etc. Weather might not be on my side this week, so its looking like its gonna be a 50/50 shot of that getting done (I have to work outside, I don’t have a garage to work in at the moment) I’m gonna hit the cross-members with some fresh black paint to make them look nice. Once everything is cleaned up (should only be a day’s work to get it where I want it, then the B18C will be on it’s way in.
I still need to prep the motor to go in. Need to grab the driver’s side motor mount bracket from the LS, I also need to remove the power steering pump and AC setup from the B18C, as I no longer use either. Then, It’ll be ready to go in. All of the aforementioned parts, including the LS will be posted up for sale, soon. So, keep a lookout for the thread in the classified section.
Now, what can I eliminate from the bay before the B18C goes in. Can I eliminate the map sensor and the related vacuum lines on the firewall, or no? It doesn’t look like B18C has provisions for all those vacuum lines.
ninja edit
btw, the infamous “bitch pin” on the shift linkage, was VERY easy to get out, thank goodness. Had a small punch, that was just about the right size, took a hammer and some persuasion, and out she popped. Whole affair was less than 5 minutes hardest part was finding the right size bit to use to tap it out, lol.
awesome thread bro. i remember seeing this a while back. i love committed DA owners. keep it up, before you know it youll be hitting vtec. just simply amazing that you restored that DA. thats my dream color i believe. Captiva Blue Pearl.??
Yes, sir!
B62-P Captiva Blue Pearl.
The ONLY blue, if you ask me :giggle:
So is this gonna be at the east coast meet this year? My cousin that lives in portsmouth is getting married may 28th so i’ll be out in Va already. Looking forward to some updates, ready to see the motor in and running by monday. lol
Definitely gonna be at the meet already have the time off from work. I went last year, and it was a massive turn out. No way I’m missing this meet with some new muscle under the hood. Depending on how nice I get the bay looking, I may roll down without a hood on. :giggle: We’ll see how it goes, though.
already have the time off from work. I just ordered a GS-R throttle cable, so I can’t really “finish” the swap until that comes in. I have a lot of detailing in the bay to do, as well. Though, I anticipate being done by next weekend :rockon:
dude, your bay is clean compared to what mine looked like when i pulled my motor out.
I’ve had multiple ripped axle boots, massive oil leaks, massive exhaust leaks from a cracked header, residual coolant from various exploded heater hoses and a bit of jizz all over the place. It took 2 litres of simple green and various other degreasers to get all that shit out… not to mention all the brushes full with axle grease and sand that i had to use and throw away.
Anyhoos… what i’m trying to say is… your bay will be easy to clean thumbs uP!
nice to see your getting some work done!!
i already got mine in and running!!
:)
WEWT! hell yea man gota love the pull. Should be a write up on how to change the rear motor mount HAHA!
R1
wow buddy lol CBP is tight but it aint got nothing on MBM. lol my car is melbourne blue metallic. FTW
good to see progress man. i didnt see any progress on CI…but glad you still getting at it
hell, I updated the Clubintegra thread. just no one is bumping it. fuggers.
So, today, I:
*Pulled the JDM engine harness, in it’s entirety (thanks, Glynn BLKACK1 for the telephone support)
*Removed the power steering pump and AC system from the motor.
*Removed the entire Hydraulic setup (kept the dust cover, though)
*Cleaned up the motor a bit.
*Removed what was left of the power steering lines that were attached to the rear cross member that I couldn’t get off when I did the power steering delete.
*Pulled LS throttle cable.
*Deleted firewall MAP sensor.
*Deleted the hard lines that connected the valve cover to intake tube, as well as the lines that run coolant from the upper radiator hose to the one under the IM.
*Took out the rear motor mount (which I left after I pulled the motor, just focused on other stuff after it came out, and I initially forgot it.) The rear bolt was ridiculous 
*Replaced the vacuum line that went from the fuel pressure regulator that T’d into the IAB vacuum source.
Question, though. The speedometer cable from the LS is cable/mechanical. The setup on the B18C’s transmission is electrical. How can I get the factory speedometer cable to work with this transmission? I NEED this to work correctly, and I don’t have the time/funds/resources to swap in a GS-R cluster to make the electrical conversion, so that is OUT OF THE QUESTION.
EDIT
Also, not sure what it’s called, but the lever that operates the clutch on the transmission (that protrudes out of the case) is doing something weird. When I removed the hydraulic setup, I checked the play on the lever, and when I push the lever back (as if I was depressing the clutch), it goes back fine, but doesn’t automatically retract back to the original position. Is this normal? I’d hate to be driving, push in the clutch, and when I let the clutch out, the clutch not engage due to the lever not coming back to its natural “resting” position.
Make sense? is this normal because the car isn’t under load or being driven? or is it faulty?
to get the speedo to work all you have to do is take the speed censor out the old tranny and put in the new one.