imcnblu's build thread (2012 UPDATES page 26)

lol. It’s not RUNNING yet, so technically I haven’t won :stuck_out_tongue:

I know… I won!
Haha

Haha, nice already puttin the little ones to work!

nice!

Good choice on the valve cover color… looks kinda familiar… AHEM!

i kid… love it!

grrr…

so, the B18C I bought had a messed up Throttle Position Sensor. I swapped the one off of my old LS since it was interchangeable. I didn’t know you had to calibrate them :down:

now, I have to remove the 2 tiniest screws in existence somehow or another, and no screwdriver is getting between the TPS and the firewall. Looks like I’m going to have to remove the throttle body to do it. Worst part, though? I don’t own a multimeter. I used to. But, it ended up getting driven over by my dad’s truck. LONG story.

GAY.

So, is there a step by step article on how to adjust/calibrate this damn thing? I’ve never had to do it before. Any time I had swapped throttle bodies on friends’ cars, they had working TPSs already on them, so it was basically a plug and play affair.

you can use an allen wrench screw. take your original one to ace hardware or a r/c model store to match thread/pitch. they should have one. I believe the size is 10/40. something like that.

Sorry to say, but the only way to calibrate the TPS is by a mutimeter. its atleast the only way I know of. you dont need a really expensive one. something cheap or even borrowed should suffice…

yeah, a buddy of mine is letting me borrow his. but how do you actually calibrate the TPS?

I talked to a friend of mine on the phone last night, and he said something about loosening the screws on it, and turning the whole TPS itself. That sounds easy enough, but I don’t remember it being “movable” like that. meaning, loosening the screws and being able to pivot the TPS.

this is getting really frustrating. :down:

are you throwing a TPS code? When mine went kaputz, my ecu wasn’t even picking it up and if it did, it was intermitently. All I had to go on what a very high idle and also the car didn’t seem to want to drive smoothly (“bucking bronco”). I threw my old LS one on there and stil had the same problem so I ordered a new blox TPS, threw it in and it worked like a charm. Didn’t even calibrate it, just kinda eyeballed it i guess. Been driving fine ever since.

http://forums.g2ic.com/showthread.php?205913-Jerking-like-it-wants-to-go-faster&highlight=bucking+bronco

Also, if you haven’t driven the car yet and aren’t experiencing the “bucking bronco” and are just getting the TPS code, check your wiring.

not throwing anything yet. Haven’t fired the motor up yet. but I’ve been told by numerous people that if the TPS is swapped out, that it MUST be calibrated. I’ve been told that there is about a 1-in-1,000 chance that it MIGHT be ready to go after swapping, but its very unlikely.

I had to swap on the TPS from my old LS as the TPS from the B18C was cracked beyond repair or even being remotely usable. Even though I KNOW the one from the LS worked fine (never had idle problems or accelerating problems at all) I’ve been told that it must be calibrated.

I especially want to make sure that VTEC works, so the last thing I need is a TPS being out of whack preventing me from enjoying my new motor to its fullest.

easy peezy…stop sweating it. just make sure it idle’s fine and you’ll be ok.

google it theres so much on HT

Any Luck?

calibrating the TPS isn’t THAT hard. I did it on my GSR.

haven’t had time to work on it in the last few days. :frowning:

My wife’s birthday was Monday, so i had that day off from working on it. Tuesday, I didn’t have a sitter for the girls, so no work there. Then, today, I had to go back to work. Vacation over. So, if I’m LUCKY, I might run into some spare time before/after work over the next week to finish it up.

you are a true g2 loyalist,!! like me, so im not crazy?!@#$??

Won’t start…

tried two different starters (the LS which is KNOWN to work fine). Took both off, jumped them using a battery, and both worked. though, when I turn the key, the starter barely clicks. on either one. sometimes it does. sometimes it doesn’t. I’m stumped. Ideas?

The LS starter seems to spin better than the GS-R starter, too. It spins faster and with more velocity behind it. The GS-R seems kind of weak, but it does physically work.

did you relocate the battery?

not yet. just to test it, i kept it in the same area as where I had it before. I think I figured it out, though. Might be going to work on it this evening, though. We’ll see where that gets me.

its always the minor details man :wink:

Did you check your grounds?