going to go put in a little work now. will update when i get home.
IT’S ALIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIVE!!!
Added an additional ground from the battery to the transmission (didn’t have one in the first place. that’s what happens when I’m rushing and working on just 2.5 hours of sleep).
Started up fine. It hesitated a little bit. The first start up was a little slow, but when it finally started running, it was running great.
I DO have a CEL. not sure what it’s for, as it was too dark to try and diagnose. I’m almost positive that it’s the knock sensor that I broke. Will try and confirm tomorrow.
Here is the BIGGEST killer for me, though. I have no VTEC 
A quick diagnosis and first impressions while driving, the throttle felt kind of loose, and upon visual inspection, the throttle cable has a LOT of slack in it. So, it seems (and sounds) like its not going full throttle. No full throttle = no vtec. Gonna try to tighten up the cable a bit (slowly but surely), and see if that does it. If not, I’ll break out the multimeter and start diagnosing stuff right away. Will the IABs only open at wide open throttle, too? Because it doesn’t sound like they’re opening up either.
Good deal man glad to hear its up n runnin. Work out the few little bugs and your golden.
R1
full throtle or not as long as you get to the predeffined rpm it should of kicked.
Jake, was she up to operating temperature. that will prevent the vtec from engaging…
Yeah, definitely up to operating temp.
when you say it should have kicked, you mean VTEC or IABs. Because I’ve read that VTEC HAS to be Wide Open Throttle.
btw. call me… my phone won’t call out, but I can accept calls. call me when you get a minute, Glynn.
On a stock ecu, you don’t have to be WOT for vtec to engage… just need to be at/over the rpm threshold. If its chipped then it may be programmed for WOT, it just depends on the software and options programmed.
Awesome to hear that it is up and running.
blasphemy!!!
you have us all watching and waiting and no pics!!!
lol
glad to hear it’s running though!
ECU is unmolested. so, if that’s not the cause, what could it be? sounds like the IABs aren’t working, either. :down:
how do I check the CEL codes? I have a CEL right now, and not sure if it’s one or several.
what CEL’s would cause VTEC not to work, other than TPS.
Also, when I swapped the TPS, I checked the voltage with a multimeter. at closed throttle, it was .56 volts. at wide open, it was a hair over 5 volts. whereas, I’ve read that factory settings are between .45-.50 at idle, and around 4.8 at WOT. would these slightly higher readings be a possible culprit?
TPS (CEL #7)
ELD (CEL #20)
Vtec Pressure Switch (CEL# 21 or 22)
How to check them, I’m assuming you’re obd1, I’m having a brain-fart and can’t remember for sure.:
http://www.c-speedracing.com/faq/06.php
happy to hear that its running, sucks though that you have no vT4k yet
ill give you a call in a little bit man 
k. its raining, but should be stopping soon. as soon as it does, I would like to get out there and get to work.
do our cars have Electronic Load Detectors? if so, where? If I throw that code, I’d like to know to fix it. any way to bypass it?
A quik google brought this up. I haven’t realy taken a good look at it as I’m on on my phone right now but take a look. The eld is located in the fuse boxon newer model tegs and older(p28 ecu) civics. The DA does not have one. I usualy just recomend disabling it if there’s and aftermarket ECU being used, but obviusly that’s not the case for you
Call you in a little bit:up:
Opps. Here’s the link:)
http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2873474
I just learned something, thankya.
My DC had one and friends’ EKs, I simply assumed DAs had them.
What else would cause vtec not to work? VSS? Is the speedo working?
speedo is working. I put the LS VSS in the new transmission. Speedo is working fine, and seems accurate. Will hook up my GPS to see how accurate it is.
could u answer me a question good sir…??
on your cable to hydro setup. the lever thats inside the tranny that sticks out for the conversion to work… is that supposed to be stiff and non moving??? or is stationary when u put on the cable-2-hyrdo conversion…
the reason i ask is that my bottom lever on my conversion broke last week, and that lever inside the tranny is loose. i have a friend whos really good at cars, he looked and doesnt think that lever is supposed to move ever…so he thinks the pressure plate blew inside. which sounds reasonable.
but i just want to make sure first before i start ripping apart the car. any insight would be much appreciated.
the lever that sticks out of the transmission? it has some play in it, yes. you can push it all the way towards the block, easily (with the kit on, you shouldn’t be able to move it very close to the block at all though. the kit’s lever should come in contact with the transmission or one of the kit’s mounting bolts, if I recall correctly). and you can push it back to around the half way mark in the hole where it comes out of the transmission. from there, pushing the lever away from the block (towards the passenger side of the car) should be borderline impossible by hand. but yes, with the kit OFF, you should be able to move that lever forward and backwards, easily. If you can move it from the right side of the hole (closest to the engine block) to the left side (closest to the passenger fender area) ALL THE WAY, then yes, the pressure plate is done :down: but around the “middle” of the hole, there should be huge resistance on that lever. where moving it by hand is next to impossible. A pry bar or something with plenty of leverage should move it, but that should require some heavy force, too.
which lever broke? do you have a pic? you should adjust the lever (it looks gold and has the adjuster nut on it. the one that physically touches the clutch release lever that sticks out) to where it is firm against it, but not so tight as to where its actually putting pressure on it. just tight enough to where it is setting in its groove and can’t be wiggled around.
It’s always something so simple! Glad to hear you got it fired up
moved so as to not hijack this thread… good luck with cels. not sure about the ELD