I saw that you said you broke the knock sensor. If so the Ecu will not kick vtec with no knock signal.
I’ve read otherwise. I’ve read that VTEC will engage with no knock signal. I’ve only read one or two that says that no knock signal will cause no vtec, but then other members came in and stated that VTEC will work, and a lot of others chimed in agreeing with the latter statement. Not sure what to believe, unfortunately. I’ve read more “yes it will work” than “no it won’t” threads, so I’m INCLINED to believe it should work without knock sensor. though, as before, until its fixed, I’m not ruling ANYTHING out. maybe I read it wrong… idk. If so, I’ll do the knock sensor bypass trick I read about. Easier (and cheaper) than replacing the actual knock sensor.
Also, I can confirm that the IABs are NOT working at all. Engine off, IABs appear to be open. With vacuum, they’re supposed to close, then at the right rpm, its supposed to cut vacuum and open them. engine on or off, the valve isn’t moving at all. Which is leading me to believe that maybe I didn’t plug the pins into the ECU all the way since NEITHER is working. hmmmmmm…
still need to check the damn codes. fucking rain. :down:
edit
I noticed, last night, that after the car had been running for a while, the temperature gauge climbed almost all the way to the hot side, at one point, actually doing so. However, as soon as I got the car up to driving speeds, the gauge dropped back to normal operating temperatures. Ideas?
This is what I was thinking…
From what I’m gathering, OBD1 VTEC isn’t tied into the knock sensor. OBD2 motor/ecu setups are, though. It will obviously throw a CEL, but won’t affect VTEC on an OBD1 car. this is what I’m gathering from this link, and others:
examples:
[QUOTE=Malakai;26824425]Its the knock sensor, always has been.
VTEC will not work without it unless it is OBD1, or the ECU is chipped to not read it.
DAM PEOPLE! It isnt hard.[/QUOTE]
That seems to be the common thing mentioned in all knock sensor related VTEC issue threads that I’m seeing. On honda-tech, and elsewhere. Still need to check the codes, though. As soon as the rain stops, I’ll go check continuity at the VTEC solenoid, the pressure switch, and I’ll TRY to check at the IAB solenoid. But that is going to be a bitch. Also, I’m gonna check the “quick connect” on the Rywire harness to make sure its solid. Hard to reach right now, but not impossible. I’m wondering if the VTEC subharness isn’t connected all the way, or if I didn’t push the pins into the ECU plugs. Seems kind of suspect that the two MAIN THINGS that harness is used for (VTEC, IABs) don’t work.
As soon as this rain stops, I’m going out with a multimeter, and some tools, and my thinking cap.
Any ideas on the cooling issue? The fan comes on fine, the engine doesn’t smell “hot” when it gets up there, so I’m wondering if there is a fault in the temp gauge wiring somewhere. :think:
Ideas?
Check the damn CEL! First and foremost.
Hey, there’s several connectors under the glove box. which one is for the CEL diagnosis? last thing I need is to try the wrong one and short something out… got a pic? or wire colors for reference?
Code 21 (VTEC Solenoid) or is it VTEC oil pressure?
Code 23 (knock) not surprised by this one at all
and I think Code 20 (ELD)
here is how it went.
first code was two slow flashes and one short.
second was two slow, three short
third code was two slow and that was it.
then started over and repeated the same codes. I let it cycle through 3 times to make sure it wasn’t throwing any additional codes.
How do I get rid of the ELD code? I checked the voltage of the VTEC solenoid. it was 0 with the engine running. should it be that way? or will it only get the voltage when VTEC is supposed to engage? Kind of stuck on that one.
Glynn, a phone call if you would be so kind. 
EDIT
Glynn, I guess you were right, btw. one in a million. NO TPS CEL! Voltage was a hair above spec, but it didn’t throw a code for it at all
When you throw a code 21, I’m 99% sure that you’ll throw an ELD code in conjunction.
So when you fix the VTEC solenoid issue, I’m betting the ELD will go away. Id assume the vtec subharness isn’t connected all the way or there’s a lack of continuity. What I would do is test continuity between the ecu-side of the harness and the vtec solenoid plug… matter of fact, try checking contunuity on both of the plugs. (A4 & D6?)
The other wire should just be a ground. How did your sub-harness come? Mine had only one wire for the solenoid that went to the ecu, the other was a short wire that the instructions said to ground on the motor.
My harness came exactly as pictured on the Rywire site. Had appropriate wires for:
VTEC Solenoid
VTEC Oil Pressure switch (had a wire to ground)
IAB (had to splice into A25 for 12v signal)
Knock sensor
I plugged all into the correct pins, but I’m wondering if the wires are plugged all the way in. “fingers crossed”
Ah alright… definitely take a peek at the harness at least, if not use a multimeter and check for continuity.
I checked for continuity AT the VTEC solenoid. had 0 volts with the car running? is that right? I know its supposed to have 12 volts, but I thought the voltage was only sent when VTEC was supposed to engage. Since the solenoid is little more than an on/off switch. right?
Where SHOULD I check for continuity? the plugs themselves? A4 and D6, respectively? SHOULD there be 12 volts constantly coming from the ECU to the VTEC solenoid?
waiting on a call back from Glynn to see what he came up with. All the plugs on the motor (knock, IAB, VTEC solenoid, VTEC oil pressure) are secure and good. So they aren’t loose. “quick connect” for the harness is connected fine. I unplugged it, and plugged it back in to make sure.
I just want to go in and check the connections for all the wires in the ECU plugs itself. Maybe they aren’t in all the way? Not sure though, because I’m not throwing a CEL for the VTEC oil pressure, and I had to “pin” that one just like the others.
Ideas on why the IAB’s aren’t working?
No no no… I’m not saying to check for voltage… I’m saying check for continuity.
You have a wire running from A4 to one of the vtec plugs right? And another from D6 to the other vtec plug. How do you know the connection is good? You check continuity… you need to find the setting where your ohm meter beeps when the leads are touching, indicating a closed circuit.
If you use one multimeter lead at pin A4, use the other lead at the vtec plug… make sure the wire is not broken anywhere. The same for D6. That’s how you’ll be able to know if your wiring is good.
admittedly, I’m kind of a noob with multimeters, but how can I test for continuity, for example, if the plugs are really far apart? I may be misunderstanding. forgive my noobness with multimeters. I’ve rarely used them.
Go through all the settings on your multimeter until you find the one that BEEPS when the leads are touching. That’s continuity.
If needed you can use a piece of speaker wire or any other wire to ‘extend’ the leads on your multimeter.
hmm. just learned that the multimeter I’m using (a friend’s) doesn’t have a continuity tester on it :down:
damn it. any other ways of testing continuity? the multimeter I’m using is a CEN-TECH 98025. It is apparently, a rather cheap one. 
http://www.ladyada.net/learn/multimeter/continuity.html
The multimeter you’re using doesn’t have that Mode? That link shows various pictures of the symobl you need to be looking for.
this symbol right here?
it has that, but not the “speaker” symbol. just the upper symbol. when I put it on that setting, and touch the probes, the meter reads “001” is that right? if so, I’ll be diagnosing as soon as I get off work tomorrow.
^
:bump:
What does the meter read when the probes are not touching eachother? OL? And when touching, 001? If so then you’re good to go…
OL would mean Open Loop; meaning a broken wire or something… 001 would mean its getting a reading, indicating a good connection.
Hard for the VTEC solenoid to get a signal if the wire in A4 isn’t plugged in all the way :bang:
I’ve got continuity all the way to the solenoid. Resetting ECU now.