Glynn, try to call again … sorry. phone was on vibrate…
Muahahaha. Enjoy vtec 
car is running for a few more minutes. letting the ECU “re-learn” everything. so to speak. following this procedure for resetting ECU:
http://www.hondahookup.com/forums/showthread.php?t=106107
a few more minutes should do it. Then, its time to take her around the block and see what happens 
so. no vtec, still.
After resetting the ECU, I took the car for a spin. first pull, no vtec, and now have a fuel cutoff of 6500rpm. :down:
checked the codes (as the CEL was still there) now it is only throwing code 22 (VTEC Oil pressure switch) and 20. for some reason, it’s NOT throwing the code 23 Knock Sensor anymore… hmm…
checked the wire for the oil pressure switch in the ECU plug. it was loose… :down: fixed… resetting. trying again after ECU resets… AGAIN.
hehe have fun breaking the motor in!
ideas?
I can’t seem to get this code to go away…
I’ve reset the ECU several times. I’ll start the car, it idles normal for about 2.5 seconds, then the CEL comes on, and the idle drops to around 800 or so.
Fuel cut off is 6500rpm when I go full throttle. No matter what I do, it won’t go away…
wtf?
So what codes is it exactly throwing still then? 20, 22, 23? Or no more 23 still?
Only codes it’s throwing now is 22 and 20. 23 and 21 are gone.
So, 20 and 22.
I read something on honda-tech that the P72 requires the pressure switch be grounded to the wire from ECU pinout A26 (Logic Ground) does this sound right?
from thread:
the topic STARTED as an OBD2 discussion, but the post I mentioned (post #8 for reference) mentions that OBD1 P72 ECU’s require the VTEC oil pressure switch be grounded to A26. Is this right?
Assuming your OBD1. The simplest way is to bypass the VTEC pressure switch by bridging D6 and A4 on your ecu pins. http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1693528
If you know that the pressure switch is still working properly, then you probably dont have a proper ground from the switch. Check the ground near the thermostat housing. Make sure the connector on the switch is secure and that there is no break from the switch to the ecu pin D6.
That should fix your problem completely and you should have VTEC.
Code 20 is the ELD which is normal for swaps into our cars, since 2nd gen tegs do not have the ELD module. It will not affect your car in any way (but MAY slightly affect the lifespan of the alternator). Code 20 will only show up if you check for CEL’s.
To get rid of code 20 requires you to either solder in the ELD module inline with one of the pins on your ecu or fusebox (don’t remember which one) from a Civic or DC integra, or disable ELD in the ecu rom (through tuning software: recommended way).
EDIT: Do not just ground A26. I don’t even know what A26 is… Lol, but it’s definitely not the VTEC pressure switch
Yes, I’m OBD1
I can’t say for sure if the switch works or not. But all of a sudden, after clearing the initial codes (code 23 and code 21), the ECU starts throwing 22.
The knock sensor code went away on its own. (not sure how, not arguing with results)
Then all of a sudden, the only real code its throwing is 22. As you’ve said, 20 is common and won’t affect anything.
By “bridging” them, do you mean simply using a piece of wire to connect them, basically? sounds kind of ghetto, though. Would rather not “engineer” stuff to work. I’d much rather do it right. I’ll only bypass it if I HAVE to, after all efforts are exhausted.
Anyone else ever heard of having to splice into A26 for a ground with P72 ECUs?
we want pics!
we want pics!
we want pics!!
[QUOTE=wise_old_dragon;2208732]
EDIT: Do not just ground A26. I don’t even know what A26 is… Lol, but it’s definitely not the VTEC pressure switch[/QUOTE]
He’s not saying to just ground A26 to the chassis or something…
The link he posted is proposing the idea that on an OBD1 P72, the A26 pin looks for the ‘input’ from the vtec pressure switch. If the vtec subharness used is designed to utilize a chassis ground, rather than running to A26, then vtec will not work.
Now I have no clue if that is correct or not… But A26 does happen to be the “Logic Ground 1” pin.
I don’t have a service manual on my pc anymore… But I’m sure a wiring diagram in there would help determine if the pressure switch even goes to that pin on a gsr.
What I’m wondering, though, is… Apparently, the Logic Ground of the ECU is grounded on the same place (top of the thermostat) as where I currently have the VTEC pressure switch grounded. Since they are basically grounded together, shouldn’t that work? Or will splicing SOLELY into that wire, be the magic trick that does it?
This is quite annoying…
Ok… that is odd…
You’re SURE that the pressure switch is getting a good ground? Maybe scuff it up with some sand paper if necessary? Ugh, the plot thickens lol.
Even tried 2 different grounds. One dedicated ground on the transmission. same result. one dedicated ground on the chassis. same result…
I don’t like “engineering” stuff, but I’m starting to consider bypassing the switch if it will DEFINITELY work.
I’m just surprised its giving you that big of a problem…
On mine I only had to run two wires to the ecu (A4 and D6, no knock or IAB), and the ground… I made my ground on one of the small screws on the cover-plate of the starter. Never had a problem. No ELD code (though I still believe this will go away when the code 22 is solved) or anything.
If you’re getting a good continuity reading from pins A4/D6 and their respective plug, I would think any ground would work. It almost does make he think that there is something to the claims of the P72 and the A26 pin lol.
i checked a wiring diagram for a usdm 95 gsr and the pressure switch is grounded on right side of engine.
what about the JDM, though? Is it possible that the JDM is different?
after giving up on trying to get the ground to work, I decided to do the pressure switch bypass. ECU is resetting as we speak. Gonna give it another few minutes, then take it around the block. So far, NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT!
Car is idling perfect (never had an issue with this, though. Just stating a fact.) After letting the car run for about 15 minutes or so, I’ll turn it off, then turn it back on. Take around block, and for VTEC.