imcnblu's build thread (2012 UPDATES page 26)

No VTEC. :down:

So, here’s the rundown. I bridged the wires. No more CEL for Pressure Switch. Which in turn, meant no more constant CEL :up:

Drove it a little bit, and as soon as I went to give it full throttle, when VTEC SHOULD have engaged, the CEL came on.

Now, its throwing code 21 again… :down:
It’s no longer throwing 22, though. Now it is solely Code 21 and Code 20 (which isn’t going to go away, so I don’t care about it)

Pulled the solenoid, screen is spotless and clean. Gaskets are in outstanding shape. Grounded it, and supplied 12v to the connector, its clicking fine, like it should.

What gives? Running out of ideas, and I’m getting quite pissed off, honestly.

Should I unplug the connector on the bypass switch so that no current goes to it at all? Since its “bypassed” by the VTEC solenoid itself?

I’m thinking maybe with it still plugged up, its only partially “tricking” the ECU. IDK. running out of ideas.

Disconnected Pressure switch and its appropriate ground…

I have VTEC :rockon:

What a difference in how the motor pulls in VTEC, compared to before.

edit edit edit

Nice!! Congrats on getting it worked out man.

Now, to just figure out the IABs. THEY aren’t working. Haven’t worked since I started the whole thing. Now its time to delve into it. Ideas/suggestions?

I’ve read that the issue can sometimes be the signal the IAB is getting…

USDM IAB solenoids are supposed to receive a Ground signal, that is what activates the solenoid.

JDM models are reversed-polarity, so they need a +12v signal to be activated.

It could be opposite (USDM being +12v, I don’t remember exactly), but it is something worth reading on. I’ve never dealt with the IAB system so I have no huge advice.

As long as you’re getting continuity (I know, shoot me) from the ecu pin and the plug, then it may be that polarity thing.

we should rename this the IMCNBLU’s Continuity Build Thread

Sorry can’t be much help with your electrical woes… I went through all the same problems you did, but the main difference in our builds is that i’m using hondata and i can control everything through my laptop :stuck_out_tongue:

For the IABs check that you’ve got the vacuum lines hooked up correctly.

^ This!

lol. even though I’m mechanically inclined. Sometimes, wiring gets the better of me, lol.

Gonna see what I can work out with the IABs tomorrow.

Awww and here I was expecting updates tonight!

I wish I could have. But, I had to go to the real job :down:

will get to work on it first thing in the morning.

:rofl:

dont worry mang, wiring gets me too. but once you learn the basics. the rest falls in line and is easier to diagnose.

VID’s or this said “Vtak” or it didnt happen :smiley:

Vids will be difficult, but I’ll see what I can do.

Also want to get the exhaust welded up so I can close the gap between the cat and the header. once that, and (hopefully) the IABs are sorted out, vids will be done

So the VTEC pressure switch was grounded at the plug? Sorry, but I forgot to mention that you don’t need to connect the plug for the switch to anywhere when performing the bypass. If you grounded it, it would have shorted when VTEC Solenoid activates.

i can check the wiring diagram for the IAB but only usdm. let me know if you have any question in particular for a wire.

meh, it would need to be JDM spec, though. My Rywire harness doesn’t use OEM wire colors, so it would be hard to say. I know that one wire goes to A17 (That’s for the IABs themselves) and another wire gets spliced into A25 for 12v power. That would be the one I’m curious about, I guess. A25. From what unified112 said, between US and JDM, one gets grounded and one needs 12v. Not sure which is which. Almost the only thing it could be, at this point. unless the IAB solenoid is bad, or if there is a vacuum issue.

for usdm application the second wire goes to a junction connector(left rear of engine compartment) then to A25 and B1. it seems to be a voltage for the injectors and a bunch of sensors.

My friend did some vids today with his Droid Incredible.

Working on getting them uploaded now :up:

So, if I’m to test this theory, which wire should I be trying to ground? the one in A25 (12v) or the one in A17?

After doing some reading, I ASSUME it would be the one in A17, but I’m not sure.

Ideas?

Wait… wut? You should be just tapping into a ‘ground’ pin on the ecu.

A17 should be fine… Its just determining where the JDM IAB ground is, so you know where to tie that into.