What did you do to fix the gasket issue?
went to napa and tried one from them. fit perfect. 
So, today, I got the following done:
Replaced Timing Belt
Water Pump
Belt Tensioner
Installed the ITR valve springs (annoying, but wasn’t bad)
Put in the JDM ITR cams
Reinstalled the valve cover, etc.
All that’s left is swapping the nasty GS-R intake manifold out for the more appropriate Skunk2 Intake Manifold. That will be done on the 'morrow. Should only take a few hours. Getting that gargantuan dual runner manifold off will be a bitch. But, swapping the new one on should be fairly simple. Especially, without all that IAB solenoid nonsense. Can’t wait. Then, since I’m basically running Type-R specs, I’ll put an ITR basemap on it, and take her for a brief spin.
you get it running brotha???
Not yet. Had a lot of hang ups yesterday and today. Had a lot going on yesterday with Easter and all.
Today, I swapped over the throttle body and IACV from the stock manifold and put them on the Skunk2 manifold. Thank goodness the throttle body gasket was gravy, because the intake manifold gasket was the polar opposite. (see next paragraph)
I have determined, that the OEM Intake Manifold gasket that was provided by the chaps at Honda is the most annoying gasket in the history of automotive maintenance. It was in great shape, but SUCH A BITCH to get off. Took FOREVER. I literally spent almost all day cleaning it off. Such a pain in my nuts. Oh well, apart from some coolant line issues, that have since been figured out (Thanks for the help, Glynn, Dave, and Matt 
) The manifold is ready to go on tomorrow morning. Hopefully by early afternoon, I’ll have filled it with all the vital fluids, and be taking it out for a spin. Even though the swap has been in for a year, I’ve only put about 3,000 miles on it, so it’s just now coming “due” for the first oil change. Putting in some Mobil1 5w-30 running through an annoyingly pricey K&N oil filter.
Maybe on the next change, I’ll go Royal Purple or Motul. Might as well go baller once, lol.
Also, my Mishimoto slim fan and mounting kit came in the other day. That will be going on shortly, as well. So much cleaner and low profile compared to the monstrous OEM fan/shroud.
Glad to hear its all figgured out
Build is DONE!!!
Having some idle issues, though. Please view this help thread and provide insight. Either in this thread, or the help thread. Preferably, the Help thread so that anyone who does a search on similar issues can have potential answers in one, easy to find thread.
http://forums.g2ic.com/showthread.php?212518-Idle-issues-after-Skunk2-Intake-Manifold-swap
Did you romp on it or just take it for a light cruise.
I stand by my original thought!! refer to this if you would like.
http://forums.g2ic.com/showthread.php?149555-Skunk-2-intake-manifold-installation
Nice to see some good updates happening here! Its been a while since I’ve checked in.
The idle issue has me stumped if the IACV/FITV weren’t tampered with… if you’ve adjusted the idle screw (if present) and still have a high idle, one would thing its either cable related or IAC/FIT related. As far as the surge… yeah, I’m at a loss.
A quick note on the K&N fiflter thing… just run a NAPA Gold filter. They’re made by Wix, arguably one of the better brands out there. Definitely on par with Mobil1/Purolator/K&N etc.
a little of both. I did do a good number of pulls, just to hear the ITR cams singing in all their glory, and it didn’t do anything to alleviate the problem.
Gonna start tinkering tomorrow.
and I haven’t messed with the idle screw at all. I was under the impression that I wouldn’t need to, since all I did was just swapped the throttle body over. I know I could probably adjust the idle screw way back and at least have a normal idle, but I’m certain it wouldn’t stop the surging. I’d be worried, too, that if I lowered my idle via the idle set screw, that if it were idling at the proper rpm, that the surging would cause it to stall out.
One thing that got me thinking, though… I’m going to feel like such an as if this is the case, but I remember having to remove the throttle body several times after I installed the IM for various reasons, clearance to get to hard to reach bolts and re routing the fuel line. As I recall, when I was tightening the TB down, the bottom right nut wouldn’t tighten up. It did the first two times I pulled the throttle body, but on the third time, while torquing it down, I noticed that after over 60 seconds of turning, that the nut wasn’t tightening down. I’m wondering if that TB stud was being pulled from it’s post due to me tightening it, and was thus causing that corner not to seal.
Anyone think that might be it? Because the other 3 corners are good, but the bottom right just wasn’t having it. I can’t believe I forgot about it, because as soon as I got it done, I had to take care of some things, and when I came back to work on the car, I had completely forgotten about it. I just don’t want to have to pull that damn throttle body again. It’s obviously not hard, but it’s an annoying process, nonetheless.
171whp and 128ft lbs of torque after tune.
picked up approximately 20whp from the cams and manifold swap.
What was it tuned with?
Nice numbers buddy.
And what you said about that stud backing-out makes sense when you think of it… I’d definitely give that a once-over… or drown it in brake/carb cleaner and see if it responds like a vacuum leak.
Keep us posted.
Tuned on hondata s300.
We sourced the cause of the vacuum leak while I was at the dyno today. Apparently, the intake manifold had been ported at the throttle body, and it had cut into the passageway to the IACV. They started the car, covered the upper hole inside the throttle body and the idle went silky smooth. Taking the throttle body off and having that hole welded shut.
Ah-hah… Always a nice feeling to get something like that diagnosed.
love the build man.been following for awhile.why the 171 hp number? i remeber the tuner saying he could get it into to 180’s.
The stock throttle body, and a few other factors were holding it back a bit. I also don’t have adjustable cam gears, so he wasn’t able to do anything with cam timing. I was a LITTLE disappointed with the number, but considering that most of the fuel system is stock, I’m not complaining. I’m putting down stock ITR numbers, which ultimately, was the main goal. I would have liked to have broken into the 180s, but it wasn’t to be today.
Nice Job man. Glad you got that vacuum issue figured out. Really like this thread since we are running similar setups. :hi5: Starting to get all my stuff together to accommodate the ITR Cams. IM hoping for those kinda numbers too after a tune!
a type r motor has higher compression pistons. port and polish from the factory and a larger throttle body… so im just wondering how 171hp is same as a stock type r??? koo numbers but i think type r has around 180-185hp to the wheels stock. escpecially since its higher compression than a b18c…
All the vids I’ve ever seen of stock ITRs put power in the low 170s. Also, my compression is pretty close to a US spec ITR. My compression is 10.6:1, which is pretty close, if not the same, as US type-r, so I was pretty confident that the jdm itr cams, in a motor with similar compression to a US ITR would perform pretty close to a US Type-R. I have seen a few JDM ITR swaps pull around 180ish, but they have higher compression.
A JDM ITR puts down anywhere from 173-178whp, in stock form.
The throttle body, P&P, IM and cams will be the biggest differences. If you’ve swapped to ITR cams, aftermarket IM and TB, then yes, you’ll be right about on par with a Type-R.
Open mouth, insert foot.