imcnblu's build thread (2012 UPDATES page 26)

GENERAL General G2/G2IC Discussion
101

worked on it all day…

PS and all associated lines are GONE. just need to loop the remaining lines at the rack (plugged the lines for now, to prevent too much from leaking out.

AC and all its related components are GONE.
Hit a couple roadblocks…
First, I guess it looks like I’m color matching my CF hood :frowning: There are a few MAJOR cracks in it now, and I’m not gonna be able to just sand down into it and lay new clear on it, the weave is cracked in 3 places, and they are long cracks, about 9" long. No fucking bueno. So, looks like I’m gonna be feathering those out, and sanding the shit out of the hood to be color matched. I’m not too thrilled about it honestly. I WAS just gonna touch it up and leave the CF weave visible. Plans changed.

Second, I can’t mount my new smaller battery in either of the two places I had lined up until I remove all the ABS components, which I don’t have the time/money to do right now. So, I’m gonna store the battery for now, and just get a new OEM replacement battery so I can get it running. So, the relocated battery is gonna have to wait until I do the LS/VTEC swap and I’ll have the motor out, and have the patience to delete the ABS appropriately. Also, I can’t figure out what is all connected to the damn charcoal canister, and haven’t had a chance to read up on it online. Anyone have input on that piece of shit? What needs to be done to eliminate it, because there looks to be more to it than I originally thought.

Since I no longer have AC, can I remove the fan that was wired with it? It’s the one on the passenger side of the radiator, correct? If so, I want it out of there, because its big, and bulky. A major eye-sore. Since I no longer have an AC compressor to necessitate it, its really not serving any purpose now, is it?

Anyway, the engine bay has a lot more room on the drivers side. When I do my LSVTEC swap next year, I’ll have a shit ton of space on the passenger side. Not to mention the wires will be tucked, and the bay will be shaved. When I can do the swap, is when all the major tucking/relocating/removing takes place.

So, Basically, all that’s left in the engine bay, since I can’t really do what I WANTED to do (at least not in a reasonable amount of time, nor is it within my budget) all I need to do is…

*Get an OEM spec battery and hook it back up
*Loop the lines on the PS rack, etc.
*Reconnect a few vacuum lines that I undid for clearance, etc.
*Degrease and clean the engine bay
*Put intake back on
*Enjoy

Then, I take it to the body shop, where they are gonna do their magic with the c-pillar. Should have it back within 3 weeks, then I’m painting it. Gonna take the 5zigen wheel that got a little cosmetic damage done to it, to a friend of my dad’s who is an awesome aluminum welder so he can touch up the chip in it, then I’m painting the wheels (again). Then, drive this motherfucker down to Richmond on May 29th for the big east coast meet.

I just won’t be popping my hood :frowning:

NINJA EDIT

BTW, my BNIB JDM Side-Markers came in yesterday. Barely 72hrs after clicking “submit order” they were at my doorstep. epic speed service from ICB motorsports.

102

sorry I had to rush off the phone with you today man and not hitting you back up. after going back to work, I came home and proceded to napped out :angle:

ill hit you up manana :up:

103

[QUOTE=imcnblu;2141508]worked on it all day…

PS and all associated lines are GONE. just need to loop the remaining lines at the rack (plugged the lines for now, to prevent too much from leaking out.

AC and all its related components are GONE.
Hit a couple roadblocks…
First, I guess it looks like I’m color matching my CF hood :frowning: There are a few MAJOR cracks in it now, and I’m not gonna be able to just sand down into it and lay new clear on it, the weave is cracked in 3 places, and they are long cracks, about 9" long. No fucking bueno. So, looks like I’m gonna be feathering those out, and sanding the shit out of the hood to be color matched. I’m not too thrilled about it honestly. I WAS just gonna touch it up and leave the CF weave visible. Plans changed.

Second, I can’t mount my new smaller battery in either of the two places I had lined up until I remove all the ABS components, which I don’t have the time/money to do right now. So, I’m gonna store the battery for now, and just get a new OEM replacement battery so I can get it running. So, the relocated battery is gonna have to wait until I do the LS/VTEC swap and I’ll have the motor out, and have the patience to delete the ABS appropriately. Also, I can’t figure out what is all connected to the damn charcoal canister, and haven’t had a chance to read up on it online. Anyone have input on that piece of shit? What needs to be done to eliminate it, because there looks to be more to it than I originally thought.

Since I no longer have AC, can I remove the fan that was wired with it? It’s the one on the passenger side of the radiator, correct? If so, I want it out of there, because its big, and bulky. A major eye-sore. Since I no longer have an AC compressor to necessitate it, its really not serving any purpose now, is it?

Anyway, the engine bay has a lot more room on the drivers side. When I do my LSVTEC swap next year, I’ll have a shit ton of space on the passenger side. Not to mention the wires will be tucked, and the bay will be shaved. When I can do the swap, is when all the major tucking/relocating/removing takes place.

So, Basically, all that’s left in the engine bay, since I can’t really do what I WANTED to do (at least not in a reasonable amount of time, nor is it within my budget) all I need to do is…

*Get an OEM spec battery and hook it back up
*Loop the lines on the PS rack, etc.
*Reconnect a few vacuum lines that I undid for clearance, etc.
*Degrease and clean the engine bay
*Put intake back on
*Enjoy

Then, I take it to the body shop, where they are gonna do their magic with the c-pillar. Should have it back within 3 weeks, then I’m painting it. Gonna take the 5zigen wheel that got a little cosmetic damage done to it, to a friend of my dad’s who is an awesome aluminum welder so he can touch up the chip in it, then I’m painting the wheels (again). Then, drive this motherfucker down to Richmond on May 29th for the big east coast meet.

I just won’t be popping my hood :frowning:

NINJA EDIT

BTW, my BNIB JDM Side-Markers came in yesterday. Barely 72hrs after clicking “submit order” they were at my doorstep. epic speed service from ICB motorsports.[/QUOTE]

no chance i’m reading all that, but i did see this “Since I no longer have AC, can I remove the fan that was wired with it?”

figured i’d post this. i think everyone who removes their A/C should see it. it surprised me, and answered some questions i had.

radiator fan.JPG
radiator fan.JPG594×848 60.3 KB

104

you can remove the condensor fan but it’s the smaller one on the driver side.

105

[QUOTE=kyle10182;2141740]no chance i’m reading all that, but i did see this “Since I no longer have AC, can I remove the fan that was wired with it?”

figured i’d post this. i think everyone who removes their A/C should see it. it surprised me, and answered some questions i had.

[/QUOTE]

Kyle, sir. I’m horrible with those black/white wiring diagrams. I see a few different “Radiator fan motor” spots, so Is it telling me that I need to keep it? or no? I’ve been horrible with those wiring diagrams. I’ve always found it easier to just trace wires under the hood. Especially, in this day and age when, unless you bought the car new off the showroom floor, its hard to tell who has rigged up shit under the hood.

which works out pretty good. because that’s the one that won’t shut off when I cut the car off, and its been the cause of death for no less than 2 batteries.

106

I totally forgot about this thread. Hopefully i can make it to the meet on the 29th and see this car in person.

107

good man, get that thing on the road!

108

lol, Matt. if it weren’t for your help, the rebuild wouldn’t be possible.

Dave, you coming to the meet?

109

[QUOTE=imcnblu;2141839]Kyle, sir. I’m horrible with those black/white wiring diagrams. I see a few different “Radiator fan motor” spots, so Is it telling me that I need to keep it? or no? I’ve been horrible with those wiring diagrams. I’ve always found it easier to just trace wires under the hood. Especially, in this day and age when, unless you bought the car new off the showroom floor, its hard to tell who has rigged up shit under the hood.

which works out pretty good. because that’s the one that won’t shut off when I cut the car off, and its been the cause of death for no less than 2 batteries.[/QUOTE]

the broken lines that surround and cut through the diagram is just showing you both AC and NON-AC diagrams on one sheet, AC is on the right and non-ac is on the left.

what hes showing you is how to wire up the fan properly so that you dont have a redundant relay that could cause issues with proper fan operation, also how to wire up the coolant switch to work properly

think of that diagram as a comparison between AC and NON-AC fan setups.

110

So, if I understand correctly, I’m to wire the relay, and all its components, to the non-AC fan. Correct?

111

if you get rid of the relay you’ll have to run one of the +12v (BLK/YEL) from the relay to the fan. the black wire on the fan goes to ground.

112

made some good progress under the hood today…
pics later, in a hurry.

*got the deka battery installed (laid it down in OEM location, fits GREAT)
*ran new wires from the battery to the fuse box, and battery to starter (started 100x better. old wires were horribly corroded and old)
*took out the AC fan, and re-did the wiring per Kyle’s direction. Thanks, sir.
*Put my intake, etc. back on. need a new filter. I believe I’ll be investing in the BPi Flowstack now that I have plenty of extra room in that area :slight_smile:

Tomorrow, I’ll be cutting the fenders for the JDM side-markers, and installing them completely. Then, putting the car back together 100% to be dropped off at the body shop first thing monday morning.

MECHANICALLY, the car is DONE. I’m just doing the side markers before I take it to the shop. after the structural repair, its going to my uncle’s paint booth for new paint (AGAIN). ALMOST DONE.

I didn’t get to do as much as I wanted to in the bay. I didn’t get to do really any wire tucking. But, oh well. The car needs to be running sooner than I planned originally. So, it can wait until I do the swap before I do any of that. I just need to degrease and detail the bay a bit. A bit of grease and power steering fluid built up on the driver’s side. Plus, its just plain dirty. So, a good power wash should do wonders. It won’t be the cleanest bay ever, but it’ll be MUCH nicer than when I started.

Again, pics will be up later. I’m in a hurry. Time to get showered up, and out to dinner with some friends.

113

I am trying to go to the meet, I hope to have my manifold back in time. if not I will most likely be in the civic.

114

yes. i shall be there. sorry about last night. dinner at buffalo wild wings ran into the 11pm range, so when I got home, I was ready to crash. pics as promised, albeit a little late…

working on routing on of the ground cables on the new battery:

new battery installed (hadn’t installed the new wires for fuse box and starter at this point)

AC and PS GONE!

AC fan out…

Yeah, I got a little more done after these pics were taken but the battery died on the cam. nothing worth snapping anyway. Yeah, the bay is greasy down where the ac/ps used to be. there was a ps fluid leak at one point. the whole bay is getting sprayed down with degreaser and a good pressure wash. then once the worst of it is out, I’ll be hand scrubbing the rest to get it looking good again. IF I can get the bolts out, I’m gonna remove the heatshield and hit it with some hi-temp flat black, just to clean up the bay a little bit.

115

Removed the hatch (Pain in the ass)
Got ONE of my JDM side-markers installed. Tends to be quite time consuming without good enough tools. A drill and a damn file was all I had. No FUCKING BUENO. took 3 damn hours :frowning: gonna get the other one mounted up tomorrow (weather permitting) and do the wiring on them, which will literally take me a few minutes. Buying a damn cut-off wheel to take the bulk of the meat out, and just get the contours out with a file so it should only take me about 20 minutes for the next one.

116

not bad, eh?

117

got the other side marker done. went MUCH faster with the proper tools.
started sanding down scratches, etc. to smooth the surface, prepped for primer.
sanded the shit out of my CF hood, eliminating and feathering out any chipping/cracking in the clear. its now smooth as glass and ready for primer/paint.

basically, all I have to do now, is put the bumper back on and take that mofo up the body shop so they can take care of the structural repair, fix a few of the nastier dents, and a rust spot. when they’re done, it’ll be ready for paint.

SHOULD be [SIZE=“7”]DONE[/SIZE] inside of the next 20 days. :slight_smile:

118

is it back from the body shop yet, JK JK. trust me man it will fell like an eternity till you get it back:giggle:

I like the battery setup, even thought its only temperary:up::up:

119

I’m dropping it off at the shop tomorrow or Wednesday for the shop to do their magic. hopefully, they can get it back to me in a reasonable time-frame. It will seem like an eternity, I know. Last time the car saw a body shop, it was only gone for a week, and it seemed like a year.

120

will be sweet to see a da at the meet. wish my teg would be ready but as of now my painter is in slow motion :(.