hey guys, im trying to install my intake ( i got the EF application with the 2 bends). i know i need to reloate my battery but the brake prop vale is also in the way. i was told i need to unbolt it and rebend the lines, but i dont wanan fuck anythig up. i couldnt find a brake line bender so i bought a cheap 5 dollar tubing bender, but it seems to be too big. id like to see pics of where people with this intake mounted the prop valve and how they bent their lines, i just dont wanna dive into it and end up screwing something up. thank to anyone that can help
nobody has ever done this?
search it… it will help
i did search, ir didnt help.
next
EDIT just in case you try to call me out on it. one of the 6 or so threads i found by searching was started by me, and i only ever got one reply, and no specific instruction or pictures.
i search on it and it helped me… its all about the battery
if you read my post, which you obviously didnt, you would plainly see that i know i need to relocate the battery. i actually dont have a battery in the car right now. seriously, come on. :roll:
its actually the brake prop valve thats in the way, in a previous post i made i was told i needed to relocate it, but i dont know where or how to bend the lines, and i dont want to just dive into it and mess something up.
so no, its NOT all about the battery.
White92,
If you post pictures of what the clearance issues are with the battery out maybe I can make some suggestions for you as to how to get this whole thing to work. I’ve heard the same things you have as well about the proportioning valve but I don’t know anyone who has actually installed a J’s intake into a DA so it will be a best guess kind of scenario.
J.
White92,
Possible answer to your Question:
As I was just doing some simple “picture” investigating of ATS DA, who has this intake installed on his car, it looks like the whole proportioning valve just needs to be pushed back, closer to the firewall.
If I’m right, and thats the case then you just need to unhook the P-valve from its bracket, disconnect the lines, bend the lines back so that the “plug in” ends can reach back further to the new postion of the valve, and then obviously connect the lines and bleed the brakes. I believe there is a hole already on the right side inner shock tower wall to hold the valve in a new position.
J.
^thats waht im lookin for, ill look for those holes today. thanks alot.
Not a problem, but make sure and post some pics once you get it installed. Also list what else you encounter while doing the install. You know there will be something else that will come up from this install, there always is and will be something you don’t plan on, no matter how complex the install.
J.
actually ill prolly take some pics during the install, i just hope the tubing bender i got is gonna work, cuz i couldnt find another one.
White92,
The only real issue you need to becareful of is crimping the hardline itself, while you make the new bend. If the line ever does one of these: “<”, rather then one of these “U”, you’ll have to start over; so becareful.
Just out of curiousity, what drove you to going with this intake over something else? I’ve heard all of the arguments for and against this “thing” but if you’re just trying to install a more responsive kit why not just go with the OEM 94+ DC2 style box? Other then the battery, it all bolts right up. I’ve been using one for years now.
J.
it was a gift for christmas and i really like the look of it. im ging with a red/cf on white thing and itll match really well.
i was just out looking at it, and i might have to double-back with some ofthe lines, because heres alot of excess with where the prop valve is going now. if double back or put multiple bends in the lines, will it cause a problem? i dont want to put too extreme of a bend on it, just to screw something up.
OK,
Well I wouldn’t change a thing about the way that the P-valve runs, other then maybe the length of the lines like we talked about. The entire system is obviously controlled with the MC, but just becareful. Nothing is more important other then a predicatable braking system and extra bends may compromise that.
J.
ah i see now, so im gonna have to cut the lines shorter?
White92,
Ahhh, YES, I thought that you understood that from my original post. If you move the P-valve closer to the wall, that makes the lines closer to their point of origin, hence a shorter line.
J.
alright tomorow ill pick up a tubing cutter and a flaring tool, cuz i assume ill need that as well, and then ill get to work. i unbolted the valve and it seems to have some free motion, so the lines shouldnt be hard to deal with. thanks alot for the info.
Let me know what you find and how it goes…
J.
im gettin realy nervous about doin it lol. i wish i could get some feedback from peeps that actually did it. i know there are a few of you out there COME ON!
i’ve installed the whale cack before. i’ve done it. u have to bend the lines. first make a decision: where do u want the prop valve to be? i ran all new lines. i had to reflare them and bend them. its not hard. i didnt even use a bender. just used my hands. thats how i roll.
not.