that looks ill, that how i want my bay to look (the red one). can u get a pic of where your prop valve went? and how your lines run, and if possible where you got new lines etc? i want a visual idea of what im gonna be doing
also if you can give me pointers on getting rid of some under hood junk id really appreciate it, yours looks so clean.
thanks so much for the help guys, now im really excited to do this .
as for the pic of snowguys car, im still loving that color sooo much.
bump . im looking to do this tomorrow and id like a visual of possible prop valve locations before i get into it.
i’d wet myself if my engine bay was that clean :bowdown:
i went back to a later post where i got a respone to this question telling me to put the Prop valve where the fuel fulter is and move the fuel filter to the valve location. the fuel filter has no problem getting over tho the valve location but theres no way the valve will get over to the filter mount, the 2 lines coming out of the fiewall are not near long enough, and i dont now where those lines travel to.
well i did some work today so heres an update, i unbolted the valve and bolted the front mounting hole on the valve to the rear hole on the shock tower. not sure how ill secure the rear hole yet…
i need to buy new fittings because there were a few that were rusty and wouldnt budge so i ended up destroying them trying to get them out. and it seems that the flaring tool i got isnt working on the tubing. what flaring tool do you guys use?
WHITE,
Did you know that brake fluid is about the most hazardous thing to paint that exists in your car? It makes for a hell of a solvent so you are going to want to tape or cover up the painted surfaces of your bay while you’re working with the valve. Don’t learn the hard way and if you’ve touched any part of your car while you “possibly” had brake fluid on your hands get that shit cleaned up.
As for your question about the flaring tool, its really a matter of preferance. I could point you toward some of the cool stuff that Snap-On makes but there really is no need to spend that kind of money on something you might use once every decade or so. Not to be insulting, but its probably not the tool, it just takes a little while to get use to how to use them. You may want to practice on some loose tubing that isn’t attached to your car, before you go out and spend money on another tool. It is a skill to flare.
J.
haha yea man, im workin on the suspension and brakes right now so the system was already bled, the front of the car has no brakes right now, no fluid, so its all good. i know its nasty shit. thanks for the heads up.
yea i didnt have tubing laying around so i cut a small length off that i wouldnt be using and got it to flare, it wasnt identical to the stock flares but it looks like it will seal. so i think ill be good. i just need to get some fittings for the lines, like i said i really screwed some of them up. they just wouldnt budge.
btw the tool im using is a cheap Ampro flaring tool i got from Advance Auto, came with the flaring tool, the clamp to hold the line and 6 double flare adapters. should i be double flaring the lines or just straight flaring?
you have any thought on what i should do about that rear mounting hole for the valve? i mean i tightened the one and it dosnt move. but im sure vibration will loosen it.
Double flares on brake lines. 
i know the pics are a little blurry, but this iswhat i came up with today.
the flare nut fittings Advance Auto sold me were “standard size” for 3/16" line. they were slightly shorter then the stock ones but with he amount of excess thread that stuck out on the stock ones, i figure these will work. they tighten all the way, with just barely room to spare.
BTW i went through the process of double flaring the lines, whether or not it resulted in double flares or not i dont know. cant really tell.
Looks like its coming along nicely…
Can’t wait to see it all finished.
J.
im kinda worried now that the lines didnt double flare, i keep trying and i cant get the tube to do the first flare, when i put the adapter on the tube and then wind the screw down, the tube just gets forced through the clamp. i can never get the first flare.
ive decided im going to buy a few lengths of pre-flared line with the fittings installed. then bend them to fit. the place im buying the line from sells the premade line in regular lengths. 1 foot, 2 foot, etc all the way up to 20 feet. im only doing the front now, and ill move to the 2 rear lines when i get around to installing the rear suspension and brakes. now my question. the stock lines are irregular lengths. if the stock line is 4.5 feet, will it really be that bad to use a 5 foot line? the only thing i can see, and this is just assumption, is it would require slightly more fluid to fill the extra length of the line. the system would still work the same. id also rather have a little extra line to work with rather than get the EXACT length and struggle to bend it and get it in correctly. i cant see the extra length of line being a problem. please correct me if im wrong.
this is why i didnt understand why i had to cut the stock lines shorter and
reflare them, if it came that way stock, why did it have to be changed? the valve would have the same lengths of line between it and the MC/Booster(?), regardless ofthe valves physical positon.
now that i have the lines all cut apart, i wish i woulda just left the lines alone and rebent them slightly to accomodate the valves new position.
im getting technical here hoping i can get some other knowledgeable people to chime in. 
i like how many views there are (600+) and noone else seems to know anything about the brake system. :down:
well i got my lines today. i talked to a few people, my grandfather, a friend, and the guy at the auto parts store (actually pretty knowledgeable for once) and all said i shoulnt have a problem with slightly longer lines, before i mentioned the excess line the auto parts guy said “if the lines are a bit long you can put and extra bend in it to take up the slack” and said he’s done it before. as long at theyre not touching or rubbing anything as the car moves/vibrates. i compared the flares on these lines with the stock ones and they are identical.
i did as VT DA advised me in a previous thread…
http://www.g2ic.com/forums/showthread.php?t=158249&highlight=whale+dick
and put the prop valve in the fuel filters location, and moved the fuel filter to the prop valve locaton. the FF gives more than enough room for the intake.
so far ive bent and installed the front wheel lines without much trouble. i tried not to make any bends that were more extreme than the stock bends. mostly 90 degree bends and lower. im also gonna put a bit of thread tape on the fittings, so if i have to remove them later, theyll be less likely to seize.
here are a few pics so far. :J:at least let me know what YOU think, since noone else wants to help.
i just got done talking to Asa from Rev-Auto and he said the length of the line-s is irrelevant. i could run 50 feet of loops and as long as theres no air in the lines, it would be no different than stock.
the red one is a crx.
yea i know
one more line installed…
this bend was a BITCH…
congratulations on doing this with almost no help, i would have been able to help you more if i had actually seen the thread sooner, looks likt it came along nicely. now you just gotta clean out the rest of your engine bay.
WOW,
That looks awesome man, congrats. I don’t see any problem with what you are trying to do or how you’re doing it. I think that if the lines are slightly longer, its the least of your problems. I would just be careful that when you bleed the lines that they are firm and without bubbles. I believe that Honda installs the P-valve at a height equal to or just slightly “higher” then the MC for air transfer or any error they make with bleeding the brakes at the factory.
Let me know if you have any other questions, I have’t been getting my “reply to post” emails for this thread for some reason, but I’ll check it more reguarely.
J.