thanks for the great compliments guys, this is my first time doing ANYTHNIG brake related, and first time working with and bending hardlines. the first thing i ever did to this car was replace the radiator when i was 17. this cars been 3 years in the making. tore the suspension and all apart myself, also doing the Legend front brakes. so its good to see others appreciate the effort put into it. it was suprisingly easy actually. im using a simple line bender and eyeballing everything with a measuring tape.
the only thing partially worrying me is i think the flare nuts are standard rather than metric, they tighten down good and hold the lines steady though. that and the lines vibrating while idling/driving might be a problem, im gonna need to attach them to various things to hold them as still as possible, so they dont rub on anything.
ps this might be a dumb question but does the brake fluid get hot?, im assuming not just wondering cuz the lines come close to some wiring and rubber hoses, i dont want to melt them.
90DALS-can you give mea few suggestions as to what else i can hide or get rid of in the engine bay, i think im replacing the IM with a JDMShit “replica” manifold and can take a few things off while im at it? one thing i wanan get rid of is the dashpot, but i dont wanan screw anything up, i heard it controls the throttle closing when you shift or something.
.J. do you see a problem with me not being able to get the air out with the position of the valve? im gonna use speed bleeders on the calipers, and ill have my stainless braided lines by then. im gonna fill with some cheap fluid to check the system for leaks, and if all is well(hopefully) im fillin her up with Motul RBF
also i wont be driving the car till about june or july, so if i pressurize the sytem and press the pedal as if i was braking, would that be a sufficient test for leaks? or will it be different while driving?
White,
Yes, that kind of setup should be fine, and air in a line is a funny thing but it should show itself relatively easy in that if the pedal is mushy, you still have air in the lines. I think that the only thing that I would warn you about is that you can blow out the MC seals when bleeding brakes without any fluid because that MC is probably the original and the part just gets old. Just take some slow cruising laps in the car once you get it back on the road and make sure and keep the car in gear incase you have a failure; very slight possibility.
J.
great job on everything, very impressive. however, i’d be sure to keep an eye on the teflon tape on the fittings. those threads are tapered and self sealing. when you introduce any foreign material there’s a possibility of it leaking. hth
shoul i just loosen the fittings and take it off? or could that possibly compromise the flare sealing? since its already been tightened
although i beleive the fittings are in fact standard 3/16, so i think thatd be a bigger problem, i suppose ill have to do it all over. cant find a place locally that sells metric pre-assembled brake line though.
i was under the assumption that the threads didnt actually seal anything, it was the flare that seals against that brass cone in the valve. the nut just tightens the flare against its seat.
I have a 92 RS without ABS, so I have always gravity bled my brakes with great success. All you have to do is place cups under your bleeders, have the brake fluid resevoir topped off and open the bleeders in proper sequence. The brake fluid will drip out at a steady pace and completely flush the system of old fluid and air. Make sure to keep the resevoir full as you do this. When the fluid coming out is clear, retighten the bleeder screws. I don’t know if this will work for ABS systems.
Basic rule of thumb is that you work the farthest from the MC first, so that is the rear passenger side for us left hand drivers. I don’t have any experience with gravity bleeding, so I won’t knock it, but I usually pressure bleed my brakes as well as use a vacuum pump to get most everything started for instances like this; i.e. dry lines.
I’ve never had any luck with speed bleeders, whether they were for a bike of somekind of a car. I guess I’ve always just done it the hardway because thats the way that I know works. All you really need is a buddy to pump the brakes for you and the rest of it just takes some time.
is it correct that thethreads on the flarenuts actually seal? i was under the impression that the nut just tightens the flare against its seat in the valve, making the seal. should i take the thread tape off the threads? the only reason i put it there was to protect the threads from getting corroded and seizing in the valve like the stock ones did. like i said i thought the point of seal was the flare/seat not the threads on the flarenut.
White,
Its both, you’re correct as I understand it, but the tape can’t hurt should you have a bad flare. Make sense? Don’t be paranoid, finish the job, with the tape on, and then see how the brakes feel. More often then not, because of the internet, we can seriously over think a project.
