Hey guys, I’ve slowly been piecing together a turbo kit that I want to run on my 91DA. Basically I’m looking to get 300whp on stock internals and I want to know if that’s possible with the parts I have, or if I need to start upgrading the internals to see that sort of power.
Here’s the parts I currently have:
Turbo - Garrett T3/TO4E 50 trim compressor w/Stage III turbine .63 A/R
Manifold - Spooling Performance Quick4 tubular manifold
Downpipe - 3" flex pipe DRAG downpipe and dumptube
BOV - Tial Q Blow Off Valve
Wastegate - Tial 38mm Wastegate
Intercooler - 27 X 6.5 X 3.5 intercooler core good to 350whp
Intercooler piping - Custom
Oil Lines - T3/TO4E Oil Feed/Return Kit
Boost Controller - Blox Pro Boost Controller
Injectors - Delphi 580CC
Map Sensor - GM 3 Bar and connectors
Radiator - 1/2 Radiator Civic radiator
Basically the max I want on this car is 350whp down the line, but if I can’t even hit 300whp on the stock internals I may have to start upgrading them earlier than I thought. Car doesn’t have the kit on it yet, still waiting on a few pieces to arrive then I’ll look to bring it over to Midnight Auto to do the install and tune for me.
What internals should I look to upgrade for those power goals, or should I be good? By internals I’m referring to valves, valvesprings, pistons, cams, camshafts, connecting rods, upgraded intake manifold, etc. I’m going to deff be changing the headgasket, oil pump, water pump, timing belt and adding ARP headstuds. I replaced my fuel pump last year with a Honda OEM one, would I still need to upgrade to something like a Walboro 255?
I plan on running around 8-10 psi on stock internals for 300whp, as I read its doable, but I just want some second opinions on if I can even hit that without upgrading some of the internals.
personally i am going to be rebuilding my entire engine with better internals before i go with boost. that way i know i’m good to go and should have no issues. i’m also looking at 20 psi heh heh and i’ll have the funds to do it as well. otherwise what i have read is that as long as compression, leakdown, oil pressure, etc. tests all check out good and the motor has been up kept, you should be fine with just 8-10 psi and/or 300whp
you will be fine on 8 to 10 psi on stock internals with that turbo, the problem is, you won’t hit 300hp on 8 to 10 psi. my turbo is bigger than the one you have and is only about 270whp on 11psi on a b16 with cams, and skunk2 intake manifold. you can hit 300 with about 13 to 15psi. now, i wouldn’t take stock internals with that much boost, but if anything at all, if you upgrade the rod bolts to arp, and get a good tune, you should be able to 300, but 350, no way on stock internals, maybe for a couple of runs then your loosing a rod. the rod bolts are your weekest link. I’ve seen 3 in the past month spin bearings because of to much boost without arp. on the other hand, i just built an ls block for a guy with stock internals, just arp rod bolts and good king bearings, and he put 12lbs on it with a bigger turbo and is close to 300, and is holding fine
Do not need pistons if your going to make around 300 whp. It does NOT matter if you run 13-15psi on stock internals. PSI is different on every car. If your running a LS motor then to make 300 whp you will need to be at 12-15PSI with a GOOOD TUNE!!! If your running a b16/17/b18c1 you can make 300 whp around 9-11 PSI. LS’ have to make more boost to get to 300 whp where as a Vtec had doesnt have towork as hard to make the same power.
I don’t want to make around 300whp, I want at least 300whp and eventually to 350. So that’s why I put pistons on the list as well. I just want to cover all bases and not end up with a blown motor. Or should I swap the pistons for valves and valve springs?
If your going to do a build, you might as well do valves, springs, retainers, pistons and rods.
Just get a Dual stage boost controller. Have 2 switches set up so that you can run one switch for lower pump gas boost (300whp) and then your “money shot pull” (350+) and just run the 350 switch when need be.
[QUOTE=IntegraC;2056899]So to be safe I should get the following done?
OEM Honda Headgasket
OEM Honda Timing Belt
OEM Honda Water Pump
OEM Honda Oil Pump
Walbro Fuel Pump 255
ARP Headstuds
Skunk2 Intake Manifold
JE Pistons
Crower Connecting Rods[/QUOTE]
Don’t thing you should really spend the money on the intake manifold just yet. You are already going to be cramming the air into the engine so the intake won’t really help alot. I would add some head work to help it flow better. Also depending on your downpipe you might need a traction bar.
Go ahead and get the Skunk 2 intake manifold. I am doing the same build as you. 300+ whp on stock internals. All OEM parts like you. If you want to get a traction bar, go for Full race. Or Innovative. Check out www.spoolinperformance.com for the innovative traction bars:rockon: