K guys i have a very quick rough draft for the thread il start.
Lemme know if i missed anything or if there are areas to improve.
Mounts -
There are two company`s out there that have motor mounts available for our chassis.
Hasport and Innovative.
The differences between kits is quite substantial so its is something you should check out on your own.
When you decide to order make sure to specify/strees what year the car is. 90-91 mounts dont work in 92-93 chassis and vice versa. If its a GS-R you need 90-91 mounts.
Both kits require the removal of the passenger side transmission mount. The right way to do this is by drilling out the spot welds using a spot weld drill bit but you could use a plain drill bit or grinder.
Im using an innovative mount kit and its holding up fine after one season. My main complaint with this kit is that it is designed to drop the engine in from above rather than lower the chassis onto the engine. The hasport kit seems to solve that problem.
Shifting -
You need the shifter box and the cables from a Type-S. This could go one of 2 ways. Either you cut your tunnel to accomadate the shifter box and bolt it in place using either a karcepts or k-tuned shifter mounting kit. Or you make an adapter plate to bolt on the tunnel inside the car. I don`t think the original center console fits over that set up but I have not tried.
Not all shifter mounting kits will work for the G2 because the tunnel is smaller. You either need one made for the EF or need to modify the ones meant for eg/ek/dc.
Another option is to go with the Hybrid-Racing shifter box. Its highly adjustable(shift throw, distance between gates, knob height) and bolt in place using existing holes in the body. No cutting required. Downside is the cost but most who choose this path are happy with the results.
Clutch
As we all know the G2 uses a cable clutch and the K-series transmissions use hydro.
Option 1
Innovative hydro to cable conversion. This conversion uses your stock cable to actuate a MC. IMO not the best idea since it is huge and heavy(hard to find a place to mount it. And you now have two different system that could fail.
Option 2
Hasport Cable conversion for K-series transmission. Uses linkage that essentially converts the K trans to cable.
Optyion 3
Sonem (Suja 1). It’s a bracket that mounts an MC to the G2 pedal assembly.
Cut and Paste Review.
The bracket is not welded at the right angle so you have to shim the MC to get the piston at the correct angle for the pedal to transfer motion properly.
The MC needs to be mounted upside down unless you want to cut the cowl to pass the line.
Not using the HVAC but i doubt very much that you would be able to retain your left hand vent and window defrost.
It mounts the MC so impossibly high that there arent very many places to mount the reservoir.
Even with those problems it has worked reliably for me so far.
Don’t forget that you will need to make a custom clutch hose if decide on hydro.
Headers -
Most any swap headers should fit without issue.
Beware if you are using a K24. Not all headers will fit. K24 deck heigh is 19.7mm taller than the 2 liter so the header might not be tall enough to get the merge underneath the subrame and away from the steering rack.
The lip of the sub frame will have to be cut and hammered flat to clear the header primaries and oil filter.
Axels -
I have heard that base model axels work but have not tested the theory.
I`m using custom length from drive shaft shop and Hasport has axels available too.
Radiator -
Any half rad should work with the right hoses.
Full size rads will have to be from civic SI or rsx. Same goes for full size aftermarket.
If you want to go full size aftermarket your best be would be a custom one that tucks it underneath the Rad support. It will give you more room to work. Especially if you use an rbc manifold.
Hoses
Available from k-tuned or hybrid racing. You can always raid the local auto parts stores.
Temp sensor -
Youre cluster will not read the temp from a k water tem sensor. Either plug the sensor into the top water neck of the engine using either an adapter or rad hose insert.
Intake Pipe -
Use your imagination or buy a swap intake.
Front Sub frame -
I have heard that the full race traction bar clears the engine and crank pulley but would need confirmation.
The k-tuned/etd piece fits perfectly as it is designe just for this.
I think the Stock sub frame could be hamered in to clear the alt/ac compressor. Someone would need to confirm.
Fuel -
Fuel pressure regulator like the aeromotive A1000-6 is needed. The stock filter can be retained. K series rail can be retained if on a tight bugdet.
Custom lines with an fittings required.
Electrical -
Custom charge harness needed
Basically 4-5 wires to link battery started altanator and fuse box
Conversion harness.
Either rywire specifically for the G2 or Hybrid racing universal conversion harness.
Management
K-PRO. The only way to do it properly.
Cheaper alternatives.
PRC ECU (JDM Type R)
This is a less expensive option simply because the prc does not have an imobilizer which would require a imobilizer bypass kit. (k-tuned or hybrid racing)
Speedo -
The K uses an electric speedo. The G2 has a cable speedo.
What does this mean? If you don’t have K-Pro you don’t have a speedo. Why? Because if the ecu does not have a speed signal it will be in limp mode.
If you have K-Pro you could use the speed sensor from a 90 CRX-SI. Slots right into the K-trans and works with the G2 speedo cable.
I have had limited success running an electric DC2 speedo in my DA cluster. It does not read 100% accurate but its something to think about…
Not running PS/AC?
You need a tensioner kit. Available from either K-Tuned, Hybrid or Kercepts.
Throttle cable?
Im not sure if the DA cable is long enough. Someone needs to confirm.
Im using a random Honda cable that’s long as hell.
Member Silchuki14 is using one from a 91 EF.
Swapping a car that came with abs?
That’s gotta go. Unless you want to relocate the entire system.
Battery
Also needs to be relocated.
Edit - Changed the header info
Also you ACTUALLY track your car,so kudos to you.
