Mark,
Any idea why some people used and mentioned the 40/40 proportioning valve? Is that for the civic guys that had drums in the rears and swapped to disks?
Did you do the rear upgrade as well? Also did you upgrade your booster/MC?
I’m also leaning towards doing the rear upgrade. Since I have some 94 trailing arms that I’m installing with all new bushings ect.
40/40: that’s for drum rears, yes.
rear upgrade: yes i’ve got that as well.
booster/mc: yes on that one too. it’s not absolutely necessary; everything will work fine with the 15/16" stock non-abs module. but, since mine was already leaking, and i was upgrading everything else, the ABS master actually was a bit cheaper.
granted, i’m waiting for an adapter from a member in Texas for going on 2 years, but we’re buddies and i’m in no hurry. 
What rear calipers did you use. I read that you have to swap sides if using the ep3/dc5 calipers. But couldn’t find any info if you have to swap sides if you use the itr calipers (granted they would be much harder to find).
you do need to swap sides, as well as swapping the e-brake cable mounting “ears” from your old calipers to the new ones.
edit:
Armed Ferret have you ever dealt with acuraautomotiveparts.org? theyre the only option im seeing right now.
Armed Ferret - so i carefully re-read the whole thread and correct me if i am wrong, but what I take from it is that you can either of two things, shave where the red or the blue arrow is on your first pic? Im guessing you shaved the inside while G2Guru shaved the actual contact area of the bracket to the carrier? Sorry, just still a little confused. Thanks for your help.
Hmm so the itr’s would need to be swapped too. I was hoping not. Well I’ll just get any that I can find then. Yeah I got the ebrake lever figured out. Thanks for the info on the calipers. So did you swap the booster too or just the mc? Last time I swapped out my booster it was a major pain in the ass. But if I have to swap it I know what I’m expecting.
From what I gathered from reading this post a few times, and also about 5 I found on honda tech. Shaving the outside moves the caliper away from the rotor, thus making the piston travel further. Plus you will have to make sure it is shaved down using a machine to get a percise flat and equal surface on both ends. If you shave the inside it keeps the caliper close and just gives you the clearance for the rotor where it rubs. Not making it necessary to have the percise flat and equal ground down part. But probaby still a good idea to grind them down as flat as you can get them.
Mark,
What year/model 1" master cylinder & brake booster did you get? Did you have to modify the lines if they went in on the other side of the MC? I see some MC’s have the resevoir thats kinda squared, and some that are round. Then where the MC bolts up to the booster the legs are angled (like on our tegs), and others are even horisontal.
i just got one for a '92 GSR. you can even sneak your old one into the core box when you take it back. 
I didn’t know the 92 GSR was a 1".
Good idea about the core. lol.
:naughty:
Will my LS booster work with the 1" MC? or do I need to swap both? Sorry I think that is probably my last question. lol. Should have everything figured out after that.
i had a leaky booster, so i don’t know.
looks like ill be shaving the inside as i dont have acess to machinery. im still not fully understanding it but thats cuz im an idiot. ill figure it out im sure.
Armed ferret- im prolly going to be getting them remanned from a dealer. itwill cost me $275, o well. ill be contacting you asap about the rotors. still got some suspenson stuff to take care of.
so what i ned to do is copy what this person did (blue circle) on the other side? (red arrows) or do i grind all the way across (green arrow)?
so if you shave the outside your physically moving the caliper away from the rotor, while if you shave the inside your just giving the rotor more clearance?
grind all the way across.
if you only grind the edges, the rotor would still contact the center.
silly bear.
and yes, outside = moving caliper, inside = clearance.
so how many ferrets did it take to grind down the caliper?
three and a half.
:werd:
how much exactly needs to be ground down?
test fitting is the fun part. 
