how do i know thats the problem…and not the booster…or the lines…or the…ya…
ps, you’d be so proud of me i’ve gone through like 100 brake calipers (not really) but i think im ready to teach a class in upgrading brakes for the DA haha. i’ll get pictures up here soon, gotta get batteries to my camera to re-charge it. running the legend ones right now, over the nsx ones…gonna try and sell the nsx ones for some change. won’t have the bling bling factor but at least i’ll be able to run my heavy ass 16 pound fat fives.
EDIT: PS do you know where i can get some hubcentric rings to fill in the gap just to be safe? i’m using the washer method behind the rotor and thinking about doing some grinding on the caliper, but would a spacer behind the rotor be just as effective?
only reason i ask is because i had my alignment / wheels balanced and there was no shaking, and now i seem to get a little around 60-65 mph… it settles out, but wasn’t there before.
i did and i got a hundred pm’s about em, and now i got two semi-serious buyers on the line… whoever gives me money first will take em home.
do you think there’s any way to test out your ABS theory (short of removing everything ABS, haha). I think I’m going to call carbo-tech today and talk with them about some brake pads.
So your clearance problem was the caliper was hitting the back of the spokes on the face of the wheel, or just wouldn’t clear the circumference of the wheel?
well, you could always pull the ABS fuse, but i’m pretty sure it has more to do with all the extra fittings, tubing, and devices the fluid has to flow through before it compresses enough. even pressurized fluid still has a bit of “flex” to it before it firms up.
obviously the more fluid, the more possibility of sponginess before it reacts. normally it’s an insanely nominal amount but…well yeah.
just a thought…say some one was doing a legend front brake conversion, they now have the original da fronts(obviously). couldnt the original da fronts be swaped into the rear? thus having a front with a legend setup and a rear with integra fronts. :shrug:
oh God of brake and swappage-- is there a way to bleed the abs unit? I read something about it at my buddies shop but looked like it needed a special honda connector to run ‘test’ mode and bla bla bla.
there looks to be a bleed screw pointing towards the sky (or my retna) on the pump (on the crossmember)…not sure waht that could do, but i’ll start reading up i guess when i get time. just curious if anyone else knew anything before i start digging. thanks buddies
I think putting the DA fronts on the rear would make for some braking issues. I think it would throw the proportions out. I would def. need a different proportioning valve, thats for sure. Probably a custom one.
not to mention the rear rotor is a single core rotor opposed to the front’s dual core…
back to the fronts, here are some sleeper brakes back with the 15s =)
any luck with bleeding ABS system?
where was that awesome removing abs system thread with all the pictures and parts of what to get? i searched but couldn’t find one with any good pictures…:tapfing:
Yeah I did this setup too but never installed the bigger MC that I bought (yeah I’m that lazy).The teg’s probably getting sold though so I’ll be transferring this stuff to my next car (g3).
all i need to do to make the dual piston calipers work on my integra is:
buy prelude rotors
redrill prelude rotors to 4*100
shave the caliper mounting bracket, on the inside (where the rotor passes through) about 1/8"?? [b]<---please correct if this is wrong[/b]
I assume I would need pads for the Legend, correct?
I would be able to use my Russell braided lines for hte integra, or do I need them for a 95 legend?
