Hey guys many of you have read my project for my teg. I am going for 650 whp. I was looking through eagles site and was curious if a lightweight crank shaft would be a good idea or not? I currently have a stock b18c1 crank. Money isn’t an issue as I am going to do this right the first time. So I just want some opinions on if it would be a good idea or not. Part number is 1834331772lw stock stroke just 10% lighter
Definitely go with the lighter crank. Don’t let anyone tell you that a lighter crank is not a good idea. Lighter crank = more power. Heavy crank = super slug motor. That’s that! Been there and have done that!
End of discussion!
P.S.- It’s good that you’re considering a lighter crank. Keep up the good work!
factory cranks are good enough to make power, they are balanced and work fine. Unless you’re buing an entire rotating assembly I’d say go with the gsr crank.
If lighter crank is so great than why does the b18c5 weigh like 9 pounds more than a b18c1 crank and also spin faster while producing more power?
Yeah, I understand, but he mentioned money isn’t a problem. Trust me, been there and have done that, and have seen it, a lighter rotating assembly can make more power. Then again, I don’t recommend going broke over a crank that weighs only a few pounds lighter. But for maxed out NA race engines, a light crank is extremely sought after.
This isn’t NA. It will be turbo about 26PSI
Oh! Well I guess it’s one of those things where you have to do what pleases you. You’ll be fine with the factory weight crank. Have fun and stay out of trouble.
I need white90 to sell me some koni yellows or some awesome shocks, because I know he’s bound to have lots of that kind of stuff. Ebay is all out of good stuff for now or at least for a while.
Originally posted by DaBoyNBlu here
the less mass you have to throw around, the faster things will happen. that’s correct.
a lightweight crank will have the same effect as a lightweight flywheel.
but cost is the huge limiting factor–which is where i think MD and i have focused our attention against aftermarket cranks.
you might be able to shave 5lbs—10lbs tops, if you include knife-edging—from the crank… but at what cost? 2500 dollars? 3000 dollars? while you can shave 10-12lbs from the flywheel for under 300 dollars.
sure, you could do both, and shave a total of 15-17lbs, but then you’ve spent well over 3 grand, and you’ve only shaved parasitic losses, and you haven’t MADE any new power yet.
that 3 grand for the crank could have bought your entire P&P’ed head package, with cams, pistons, rods, and probably your aftermarket fuel injection computer–the whole kit-n-kabootle.
…or you could spend that 3 grand to save 5lbs of rotating mass in the bottom end.
and notice that i only focus on mass here, b/c you’re not going to get much more strength in the crank region–honda stockers are just about bullet proof as it is.
-Hoots
$3000 for knife edging a crank…WTF?
I say use a stock crank, knife edge it, polish it and have it fully balanced all the way to whatever your estimated redline will be.
Golden eagle lightweight cranks run 750. so should i just stick with stock get it balanced and run it?
the machine shop i use wont knife edge cranks. no idea why. but crower sells two different 89 mm cranks depending on your budget. im running a crower 95mm crank and it is sweeeet.
kraze how much are they?
i dont remember i think the cheaper one is around 750, and the more expensive one is like 1600 and custom made for you so you have to wait for them to make it. i have the cheaper one but it came in my stroker kit.